locked up engine

[RootesRacer]

Will do, thanks. Any ideas where to get the correct socket? You are talking about on the lower pulley correct?

there are several bolts used, one that is exactly that ( A bolt), and one that is a cast steel piece for crank starting. If you have the latter, you will need a crows foot socket or a deep socket . Yes, the lower pulley / harmonic balance

 

[alpine_64]

Have you checked the plugs to see if there is indication of water? Checked the oil for traces of water? Perhaps you have a compression locked motor if there are traces of a blown head gasket.

 

[R Ziehr]

there are several bolts used, one that is exactly that ( A bolt), and one that is a cast steel piece for crank starting. If you have the latter, you will need a crows foot socket or a deep socket . Yes, the lower pulley / harmonic balance

Thanks

 

[R Ziehr]

Have you checked the plugs to see if there is indication of water? Checked the oil for traces of water? Perhaps you have a compression locked motor if there are traces of a blown head gasket.

No water. I pulled the engine 7 years ago, was going to do a V6 swap but changed my mind. The engine was running when I pulled it. Just now installing it again. I’ve got it all back together and when I turn the ignition all I get is a click. I don’t think I connected the wires incorrectly??

 

[alpine_64]

Maybe ... But have you tried puting penetrating oil down the plug holes into the bore? Maybe rings have stuck to bores.. If 7 years and stored wothout turning and without anything in the bores to stop moisture buildup might be rings stuck...

 

[volvoguys]

The original crankshaft bolt is 1 5/16" and you'll need a deep well socket if you have a manual crank extension. If you have a mushroom-shaped starter dog you'll need to use a crows-foot, as earlier mentioned. A free engine should turn quite easily with the correct socket and breaker bar. If it seems to be binding - STOP! Don't force it! Actually, I can easily turn my 1725 by pulling on the fan belt (never turn an engine by its fan).

If an engine was known to be running before pulled and after sitting 7 years won't turn (but the bendix clicks) my first inclination is wiring, to include main engine grounding. If you've sorted the wiring and it still will not turn it may just be stuck. If your motor oil had even the slightest amount of moisture the piston ring(s) may be rusted in places to the cylinder walls. I suggest putting a little Marvel Mystery Oil in all four cylinders and let it do its magic for a few weeks. Try turning the crank again and see if its loosened up and , if not, add just a bit more and wait again. If the MM oil loosens the engine I suggest you slowly turn the engine manually a half dozen full revolutions and replace the engine oil before trying to start. You'll likely be able to use it without any rebuild.

Safety tip: MAKE SURE the battery is completely disconnected before turning the crank bolt.

Please let us know your progress, Mark ….. volvoguys

 

[Alpine 1789]

The original crankshaft bolt is 1 5/16"

1 5/16” is an unusual size that many of us don’t have in the toolbox. However, a 33mm axle nut socket will fit and the national chain auto parts stores like Autozone will “loan” you one for free. (“Loan” is in quotes because you have to buy it to borrow it. But you can use it and return it for a full refund, so that is still free in the end.)

 

[R Ziehr]

I checked the main engine ground, did some brushing to make it shiny. I was as able to find a socket for the crankshaft bolt. A 33 mm did the trick. I tried turning it with the socket but couldn’t budge it. I had been spraying PB Blaster but will give Marvel Mystery oil a try. I’ve got nothing but time to let it work! Thanks again

 

[Mike O'D]

Pull the oil pump - they can, and do lock up from moisture in the pan. If you try to force it to turn, you will break the teeth off the cam. You may be wondering how I know this!

Mike

 

[R Ziehr]

Pull the oil pump - they can, and do lock up from moisture in the pan. If you try to force it to turn, you will break the teeth off the cam. You may be wondering how I know this!

Mike

Ewww, that stinks. How did you eventually get it un stuck? By pulling the oil pump?

 

[Mike O'D]

Yep, pulled the pump, replaced the cam. 2 of the 4 spare pumps I have are locked up tight, so it definitely happens. The only good thing was it was on a stand at the time and not in the car.

 

[Tim R]

Sorry to hear about your problems, here is video of us rebuilding a 1592. I hope it is of use.

Tim R

 

[jumpinjan]

A couple of important tips to include:
-The connecting rods have to be installed correctly. There are oil holes in the rod and I think the holes face the camshaft.
-One needs to set the crank end play with a dial indicator. to find the best end play, I have a box of used thrust washers and I mic those washer's thickness. I then put those "used" washers on the non-thrust side (not the clutch side) to get the proper play.
-You should check the camshaft end play as well.
-To clock the oil pump, yes, turn the crank over one turn. Then do a trial fit of the oil pump with the slot at 45 degrees. I then do a trial fit of the distributor to the oil pump. If the rotor is pointing to #1 cylinder to fire, then you got the pump in correctly.
-Also, before the block is washed with solvent and then soapy water to remove micro particles from the cylinder walls, I run threading taps to all the internal bolt threads in the block.
Jan