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Houston we have a problem...

A

AndreaG

Donation Time
Finally got some of the tune up parts so I dug into the engine bay. Drained the oil and coolant. Everything looked ok until I pulled the last spark plug to check them out. Crust has built up in the cylinder. Could it be that the head gasket was leaking coolant into the chamber? Does that sound right to you?

I could poke around in the combustion chamber & it was built up so much that I could see crusty chunks breaking up in there.

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Which one of these is not like the other...

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This caused me to pull the valve cover off and saw some more crust (not rust) all over the valvetrain - wierd. It looks like a valve job & head gasket change is in my future.

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If the chamber/piston head is badly rusted or damaged we may just end up sending the engine out to be rebuilt ($$$).
 
N

norville

Donation Time
If coolant was in there I'd expect it to be very very clean. small amounts of water will raise the flash point. Looks like its been sitting around? Could that cylinder been open and caused it to rust?

bob
 
A

AndreaG

Donation Time
It was sitting for 15 years with the previous owner. It was sealed up nice and tight. Plugs were in, valve cover was snug.

The only thing I can think is that a little bit of coolant seeped into the chamber and crusted up. I dont think its rust per se. It mustve happened over time because the engine was running when he parked it so long ago and it probably wouldnt have run at all with that buildup in there.
 
N

norville

Donation Time
AndreaG said:
It was sitting for 15 years with the previous owner. It was sealed up nice and tight. Plugs were in, valve cover was snug.

The only thing I can think is that a little bit of coolant seeped into the chamber and crusted up. I dont think its rust per se. It mustve happened over time because the engine was running when he parked it so long ago and it probably wouldnt have run at all with that buildup in there.
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I'm not sure if you should clean that stuff or not. My heart say's pop off the rocker assembly and take some steel wool to it. Being lazy as I am I'd consider just running it. Either way change the oil 2x. once after start up and one again after a few miles.. I've seen worse.

Regarding the rust it could be condensation, if that valve was open to exhaust or intake "air" would get in there..

bob
 
gordonra

gordonra

Donation Time
Push rods and rockers look pretty rusted to me....

I'd bet the cam and crank are rusted just as bad.

If it were mine, I'd clean it all up before running it.
 
A

AndreaG

Donation Time
That stuff on the valvetrain isnt rust, its like dirt. I wiped most of it off. Either way I think I'm going to pull the head and get a good look around.
 
britbeam

britbeam

Donation Time
I believe if you want to count on this engine you need to do a complete overhaul. Then you have the confidence to go anywhere. If you risk trying to start you could damage parts you may need to use. Cant say what a complete overhaul cost now but I did my 4cylinder top drawer in 1999 and I spent $1400. Money well spent.
Dwain V6 Krazy
 
B

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Andrea, after all these years, without doing a tear down, it pretty near impossible to determine the condition of the engine. I'd do just that, clean everything and then take stock of what you have. If the engine proves to be fine, it will have cost you the price of a gasket set. Cheap enough to know you have a solid engine and and it is ready to go.

The alternative is to change the oil, start it up and hope for the best. Lots have done that and come out pretty good. In a way, you can't loose a whole lot with this approach. A shot engine is a shot engine. Running it few more minutes won't make much difference.

Bill
 
sunbeam74

sunbeam74

Silver Level Sponsor
It wouldn't hurt to pull the pan, too. Check the oil pick up for crud built up in the screen. Might even want to pull #3 rod bearing to view the bearing condition. I don't think your journals will look bad due to the crusty stuff. They would be well sealed and still coated with a fine layer of oil.

While you have the head off I would spray the rocker assembly down, off the head, with some carb cleaner (or something to help remove the build up). Even spray the head but the idea is to wash whatever crud is internal is get it out.

Clean the pan out. I am sure there is a 1/4" of gunk in the bottom. The proper way of cleaning is to have it dipped. (not sure if a radiator shop could clean it for you but it is worth checking)

I am up in Mass. so if you have any questions feel free to call.
508-303-3391


Steve Silverstein
 
jumpinjan

jumpinjan

Bronze Level Sponsor
AndreaG,
You need your engine rebuilt. I would NOT even try to turn it over. Don't even think about try to start it.
Jan
 
sunbeam74

sunbeam74

Silver Level Sponsor
I was also going to mention there must have been a reason the previous owner parked the car. Pull the pan... check #3 rod bearing. I bet it shows a good bit of wear and I will be surprised if one of the cylinders isn't locked up in the bore.

Also, check the side of the block just under the alternator for any cracks.

Most of the crud/rust is due to the humidity in the Northeast. Being from the SE I am amazed at the dampness that occurs in New England. Even our house, which is in a relatively dry area - far from some of the low lying areas - sees a good bit of moisture. When I painted the floors in the garage the humidity level in the garage dropped considerably. Still, I hate to leave any bare metal exposed.

The black race car we found in Housitonic wasn't much better. After sitting from 1970-2006... Amazingly... it did run after changing fluids/cleaned up. I had already assumed a full rebuild was going to happen, which we did last year, since our plans were to put it back on the track but it ran and we drove it....

Steve
 
Jim E

Jim E

Donation Time
Words on cleaning the oil pan. You need to cut the baffle out of them to get them clean. Most of the pans the baffle is cracked anyway. I have done this on pans that spent a long time in the cleaning vat and there was still crud in the bottom of the pan under the baffle.
 
B

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Jim E said:
Words on cleaning the oil pan. You need to cut the baffle out of them to get them clean. Most of the pans the baffle is cracked anyway. I have done this on pans that spent a long time in the cleaning vat and there was still crud in the bottom of the pan under the baffle.
Click to expand...

Which begs the question, if the crud is stuck that well in place, what's the problem?

Bill
 
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