Head replacement

[dennis talbert]

The head on my 1967 series V has done given up the ghost. I've got a "reconditioned " head that I bought off e-bay. It appears to rock a bit from corner to corner. It rocks just enough to slide an old tyme double edge razor under one edge. Other than some puddle welding around the water jacket holes it appears to be ok. A buddy of mine said he thought the best thing to do at this point would be to put it on the car and see how it does. It has already been ground down a bit to deal with the puddel welding, so I'd like to avoid having that done again. Also, this head has less material in the crosssectional areas ( around the bolt holes and spark blug races) then the head that came with the car. Does this indicate that it is a latter model head? It just doesn't have the bulk that the old head has. How can I use the casting number on the head to understand it's provenance better? Thanks for any help you can give me.

Dennis

 

[Ken Ellis]

Dennis,

A couple of things. If the reconditioned head is not flat when measured casually, I think you should find a machine shop in your area qualified to measure it up precisely and take the appropriate steps to fix it. I think you'll be happier with the outcome if you do it right, right out of the box.

Take them your old head, too -- what exactly happened to earn "ghost" status? A head that needs valve and seal work, but still has enough thickness to be machined once or twice is probably worth the effort to reclaim.

As far as ID, if you can post a few good pictures of each, that'll help.

Also, it would be worthwhile to perform this Google search:

site: sunbeamalpine.org head wear bars

The whole thing. The first thread covers a lot of good territory, and includes pictures that should allow you and the shop to determine which head is worth working on.

(That specific thread is:

sunbeamalpine.org/forum/archive/index.php?t-6613.html

which refers to some off-site pics. Hopefully the links are still valid.)

Good luck!

 

[Jeb Stuart]

heads & 38/38 weber questions & misc ramblings

Is there someone (in N. America or the civilized world) who will port and polish Alpine heads for the far from mechanical? Breath better and increase compression - ala Holbay? I don't think I am up to grinding out a head, as in Vizard, in my garage.

Has anyone used the roller rockers listed in Ebay? My rockers are so worn I have to use a wire feeler gauge to set them.

Has anyone got the jets for a down draft 38/38 syncronous Weber down for a stock Alpine? I can find info for the BMW 2002, Jeeps, and others but not Alpines.

Comment: - If an Alpine engine is able to give it's all it's a nice engine - not great but nice. I drove the southern Apalachian mountains and the "tail of the dragon" a couple of months ago (once again) and my sole Alpine w/ 38/38 & overdrive (O/D in 3rd comes in handy in the moutains) had no (real - if I keep the RPMs up) problem keeping up w/ several 914s & 911s from the 60s, 70's & 80's, an 80's Miata, several Triumph TR6's & GT6's, several MGAs & B's and the only Italian - a boat tail Alfa (150 HP according to my weenie younger, but far from young, brother who owns & drove it). I have to admit it's a beautiful car but don't tell him that. W/ a little help my Alpine could lead the pack. Thanks, Dreaming