I'm getting ready to pull my gas tanks from my sv and sealing them, I've read all I can find on the forum about this and pretty much know what I'm going to do. I'm going to use por15 sealer kit. My question is, does this sealer hold up over time, no cracking, peeling, clogged gas lines, etc? I've always been real skeptical about putting anything in a gas tank other than gas. I don't want to have to pull the things out of the car again 5 years down the road and repeat the sealing process. I also realize that initial preperation is the key factor here.
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Gas Tank Sealing
- Thread starter JT30car
- Start date
I don't think you will be able to get any real long term data from this board. The problem did not really exhibit itself until about 10 years ago. I can tell you my tanks were treated with POR 15 about 6-7 years ago, but have been been exposed to gasoline only about 3 years. I can say so far, so good.
I have not heard anyone complaining about the POR 15 treatment failing.
I don't think a fellow has an option to treat or not to treat. It is which treatment are you going to use. Without treatment you will fight eternal sloughing and rusty gasoline. If you choose to clean and not treat, you will have to contend only with rusty gasoline and rapidly deteriorating tanks.
Bill
I have not heard anyone complaining about the POR 15 treatment failing.
I don't think a fellow has an option to treat or not to treat. It is which treatment are you going to use. Without treatment you will fight eternal sloughing and rusty gasoline. If you choose to clean and not treat, you will have to contend only with rusty gasoline and rapidly deteriorating tanks.
Bill
H One-Twenty
Donation Time
I treated my tanks with POR15 a couple of years ago and I highly recommend it. However as with most jobs the key to long term success lies with the preparation.
I had the tanks 'boiled out' and pressure tested at a radiator shop first. I then thoroughly cleaned them inside using the POR 15 marine clean then metal prep (lots of vigorous shaking with a length of steel chain inside each tank) before finally coating with the tank sealer. I rotated the tanks many times to make sure every surface was covered. The coating itself is very tough and adheres tenaciously to anything it comes in contact with (including tools, the floor, your skin, etc) and is very difficult to remove!
I’m pretty confident it will last a long time.
I had the tanks 'boiled out' and pressure tested at a radiator shop first. I then thoroughly cleaned them inside using the POR 15 marine clean then metal prep (lots of vigorous shaking with a length of steel chain inside each tank) before finally coating with the tank sealer. I rotated the tanks many times to make sure every surface was covered. The coating itself is very tough and adheres tenaciously to anything it comes in contact with (including tools, the floor, your skin, etc) and is very difficult to remove!
I’m pretty confident it will last a long time.
OK
Was thinking about taking my Series 1 tank out and throwing it away, no dents, cracks or anything actually holds gas too. But thought I would update and upgrade to a fuel cell. But thinking I'll save a few hundred and use it to buy a can or two of POR15 tank treatment and some other parts I need instead, thanks for posts such as this.
Was thinking about taking my Series 1 tank out and throwing it away, no dents, cracks or anything actually holds gas too. But thought I would update and upgrade to a fuel cell. But thinking I'll save a few hundred and use it to buy a can or two of POR15 tank treatment and some other parts I need instead, thanks for posts such as this.
serIIalpine
Donation Time
You can save yourself a lot of trouble and headaches by taking your tank to a radiator shop and have it cleaned inside and out and then lined with the red tank liner they use.
I did this over ten years ago and I recently had my sending unit out and inspected the interior of the tank and it looks like it did when I installed it.
The sealant is sold throughout and not pealing, flaking or bubbling anywhere.
I would imagine the por15 is an excellent product but there's no way you can get your tank clean enough at home for it to do it's job properly.
I guess you could have them dip and clean the tank for you and then you could line it yourself.
Good luck.
I did this over ten years ago and I recently had my sending unit out and inspected the interior of the tank and it looks like it did when I installed it.
The sealant is sold throughout and not pealing, flaking or bubbling anywhere.
I would imagine the por15 is an excellent product but there's no way you can get your tank clean enough at home for it to do it's job properly.
I guess you could have them dip and clean the tank for you and then you could line it yourself.
Good luck.
Bikesandfires
Donation Time
The POR-15 or a product called KREME both work very well, I'v used them both over the years in modified and scratch built motorcycle tanks. Surface prep is the key.
My question is how do you get the tanks out?? 67 sV and part of the trunk spring mechanism sticks down....Whats the trick guys??
My question is how do you get the tanks out?? 67 sV and part of the trunk spring mechanism sticks down....Whats the trick guys??
alpine1963
Diamond Level Sponsor
Take your trunk springs off and the trunk hinges will then spin around out of the way. Be careful they can pack a punch and be very dangerous unhooking them.
Cheers,
Cheers,
You can do it without undoing the springs. If you unbolt 1 hinge at a time you can rotate it out of the way enough to get the tank out. Remove the tank on that side, bolt the hinge back up and move to the other side. Leaving one side connected usually keeps the trunk up.
Bikesandfires
Donation Time
Take your trunk springs off and the trunk hinges will then spin around out of the way
thankyouthankyouthankyou!!!!! Worked like a charm..
Marty
thankyouthankyouthankyou!!!!! Worked like a charm..
Marty