Fuel Tank Top Crossover

[Eleven]

Just got done R & R'ing my SV tanks. Always had a bad gas smell in the car and could not trace. Turns out that the top crossover line was broken in the body. Mine had a solid fuel line (beyond me how they got it in) and it had broken in the middle. I can't get it out. Right now am running a loose fuel line between the tanks but does anyone have a decent way to thread a line in that channel that runs between the top storage cubby and the trunk? What line did you use for the crossover?

 

[Gordon Holsinger]

Just got done R & R'ing my SV tanks. Always had a bad gas smell in the car and could not trace. Turns out that the top crossover line was broken in the body. Mine had a solid fuel line (beyond me how they got it in) and it had broken in the middle. I can't get it out. Right now am running a loose fuel line between the tanks but does anyone have a decent way to thread a line in that channel that runs between the top storage cubby and the trunk? What line did you use for the crossover?

Use a spring leader for a fish tape

 

[Barry]

Just got done R & R'ing my SV tanks. Always had a bad gas smell in the car and could not trace. Turns out that the top crossover line was broken in the body. Mine had a solid fuel line (beyond me how they got it in) and it had broken in the middle. I can't get it out. Right now am running a loose fuel line between the tanks but does anyone have a decent way to thread a line in that channel that runs between the top storage cubby and the trunk? What line did you use for the crossover?

Tracy,

I'm with you, I can't imagine how to snake metal tubing across the body shell. Everything I have ever seen indicates that the factory original crossover line ("breather pipe" in the parts manual) was rubber hose and that is what I would use for a replacement.

Only SAE J30R9 "fuel injection hose" (available at any decent auto parts store) is suitable for modern gasoline containing ethanol; neither vacuum tubing (no reinforcement) nor SAE J30R7 "carburetor hose" are rated for use with fuel that contains ethanol.

HTH

 

[Eleven]

Thanks guys. Who ever put that pipe in was a amazing. It broke about 5 inches past the bend on the drivers right side of the car. Thick enough or flared at the bend (not sure which, can't or feel it) that I can't get a hose by it. Will have to try and break of the drivers left side and see if it will come loose. Feels like it is attached somewhere; remaining pipe very solidly fixed; probably jammed. Oh well, day is too nice to fart with it now. Enjoy Veterans day!

 

[sunalp]

I've actually seen the metal tube in two Series V's I've worked on. Seems to be a later car
thing as both were late V's. One had 38K original miles on it! I'm working with some 5/16
steel line to see if I can bend it to get it in my car. We'll see how that goes.
Cheers!
Steve

 

[puff4]

Mine was the original and used rubber tubing. It should work nicely so long as you don’t drill holes in it when replacing the convertible top (like a worker did to my car when owned by the DPO).

 

[Alpine 1789]

I am almost certain that I just used a generic tubing when I replaced my crossover vent line 10 or so years ago and want to do it again, correctly this time. Can someone save me some time and tell me the correct ID and the length of the tubing?

 

[Bill Blue]

Tubing is sized by the O.D. 5/16" tubing is compatible with the tank connections. Prolly the best deal is 5/16" copper/nickel brake tube. Easy to work and will last forever, regardless of fuel used or vibrations. No idea what the correct length would be. I used 5/16" tubing, but just because I used X length tube does not in any way mean that X is the correct length or the amount you should buy.
Bill

 

[alpine_64]

Im thinking a solid line for the breather hose would be potential for an annoying rattlenor vibration sound....

 

[sunalp]

Im thinking a solid line for the breather hose would be potential for an annoying rattlenor vibration sound....

The steel tubes that were in the two cars I saw the tubing in was welded in there and wasn't coming out,
at least not easily and there were no vibrations in the car from that.
If you were to go the cupro-nickel route you could put isolating rubber in spots so vibration didn't happen.

 

[puff4]

Im thinking a solid line for the breather hose would be potential for an annoying rattlenor vibration sound....

Precisely. Rubber works - I’d stick with it.

 

[hartmandm]

I am almost certain that I just used a generic tubing when I replaced my crossover vent line 10 or so years ago and want to do it again, correctly this time. Can someone save me some time and tell me the correct ID and the length of the tubing?

Jim,

My series V original vent rubber hose was 71.5" long. I used 3/8" ID fuel injection hose for the replacement. New hose is a bit thicker OD than the original hose, but still fit ok through the body shell cavity.

I taped the new hose end to the old hose end and used the old hose to pull the new hose through.

Mike

 

[Alpine 1789]

Thanks Mike. I roughed it out at 7', but knew that would give me extra. I stopped by Autozone today while running other errands but they were packed with a long line to pay or ask questions. I'll go to NAPA during the week; it will be a lot easier and the weather here is pretty crappy at the moment anyway.

 

[Eleven]

I take it that you guys, Mike and Jim (maybe Puff), did not have the steel line but the plastic flex stuff. I wrestled with it again yesterday and like SUNALP said, it isn't coming out. Since it also blocks the channel and I can't thread anything through there, I guess I will have to put in some attachment points externally behind the spare and make it look as sanitary as I can. What a deal! Off topic a bit, English cars as so basic in design and function that they are really fairly easy to work on. I think they compensate for that with stuff like this!!!!

 

[Alpine 1789]

FWIW, I have owned three SV's (including one of the very late production models), a SIV and a S3 and parted out several more and never seen a steel line between the tanks. There are few guys here who have tons more experience and may have other thoughts, but I don't think this is original. But, given the hand you've been dealt, could you use the steel line as a channel and run a fuel hose inside it?

 

[hartmandm]

Tracy,

Just double checking the routing of that steel line is in the usual place for the vent hose. Here's a picture of my original vent hose routing.

If yes, you might be able to drill a hole in the panel I marked in blue and route the hose right behind where the trunk curtain attaches. Leave some space for the trunk curtain rivets (if not currently installed). Or maybe don't drill the panel, go past that panel then route back into the area behind where the trunk curtain attaches. I'm not sure if the hose might interfere with the convertible top frame, since my frame is not currently installed.

Mike

 

[Eleven]

Didn't think to drill a hole. Will check that out. I have to route it behind the tire so think I will get some wiring (not sure what they are called) holders and secure about 4 of them behind the tire. Think that will do nicely. Appreciate your help!