For those running twin DCOE carbs (anyone have the starter ckt funtioning?)

[RootesRacer]

I began with Mikuni/Solex PHH carbs on my alpine, they worked a treat all the way around and even had a functional "starter" circuit that when I pulled the choke, would not only enrichen the engine, but the idle would raise too, just like its supposed to.

When I bought my spanish DCOE webers (new), the starter circuit would only cause the engine to die if running, and flood it out if not.

I saw a video over the weekend from a guy with and H120 engine that has the same issue. He soldered up his jets and drilled them at .6mm and when he was done, the starter circuit seemed to operate.

Do any of you have a good functioning/sorted starter circuit and if so, what starter jets and bleeds are you running?
My DCOE 151s came with 85F9 starters and 150 air bleeds.

Thx in advance

 

[jdoclogan]

The Promotional Harrington Le Mans (PHLM) has twin 38 Italian DCOE Webers (NOS when installed), The starter jets are 90F9. However, I don't use a choke and find starting to be an owner specific technique for each car. With the PHLM I let the electric fuel pump run for a few seconds - give the accelerator pedal a couple pumps - turn over and it usually fires-up and stops - repeat until it fires again and feather the pedal for a few seconds until it warms-up. Run the engine up to 2000-2500 rpms and let off to an idle of about 800-1000rpm.

I did google search "Starter jet on DOCE weber" and found this September, 2014 response from a query as to "what the starter jet does:"

"Hi
The starter jet system on a DCOE is almost like a separate carburettor. It's only function is to provide extra fuel and air to richen the mixture on cold starting. I have a pair of Italian 48mm DCOE's which came from the factory with no cold starting system at all. They were used on Formula Atlantic engines.
I have been working on Weber carbs. since 1967 and I can't remember a single instance of needing to use the cold start, even when in the snowfields. Mind you I haven't lived in Bonnie Scotland since 1955! About the worst thing that can go wrong with the system is if the starter pistons don't fully close when not in use thus causing an over rich condition at idle which can be hard to diagnose. Usually one idle mixture screw has to be virtually closed to correct the idle
I personally give the accelerator 3 pumps slightly depress the pedal, then hit the starter and just blip the throttle to keep it going. Works for me every time.
Alan P."

 

[RootesRacer]

I live where it gets hella cold and yesterdays attempt to start the alpine at -2° F were met with frustration.
The starter circuit gives extra fuel and air, which mimics the high idle speed cam on a conventional carburretor.

A quick blip of the throttle and then crank is not going to get it to start.

Curious though, with such large fuel jet on your starter setup, does it even work? As I said before, mine are 85F9s and its too much fuel
to do anything but foul the plugs.

 

[jdoclogan]

I don't choke when starting. I have a heated shop (always 50+F), starting up a few weeks ago was no problem with 15-20 F outside. I guess the PHLM and I have gotten to know each other.