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Engine stalling

P

Paul67

Gold Level Sponsor
I have a 67 SV with the weber conversion and manifold from SS.
When I bought the car a couple of years ago it had the wrong carbs and manifold and wasnt running. So I have no experience of how it ran before I put the weber on.
First of all the RPMs are around 800-850 at idle via tiny tech. Any lower and it runs rough and can stall on it own.
Here are the symptoms:
I'm driving and come to a light and it stalls. It will crank but not start.
I can be driving for 2 mins or an hour before this happens.
It can take 10 seconds, 2 mins, 10 mins or longer before it will start again.
It seems to stumble as the RPM drops slowing for a light. Blipping the throttle as I slow to a stop will keep if from stalling but as I dont have my handbrake connected sometimes I cant sync my heel and toeing of the brake and accelerator pedals and clutch at the same time and it stalls.
So to recap I can stop it from stalling with some fancy footwork on a level surface but once it stalls its game over until it decides it wants to start again.
It will always start and idle from cold.
Any suggestions of what these symptoms suggest would be much appreciated.
 
P

Paul67

Gold Level Sponsor
And yes I do understand that I need fuel air and spark! I was hoping for someone with the same symptoms to point me in the most likely direction. Sadly when this has happened I have not had a spark tester on me. It does seem to be getting gas but please see the symptoms above. Thanks!!
 
sunalp

sunalp

Diamond Level Sponsor
Check your coil. If it's going bad it can do that type of thing. They overheat when going bad
and can mock the symptoms of a maladjusted carburetor. Once they cool down you'll be able to
start, but it'll happen again.
 
husky drvr

husky drvr

Platinum Level Sponsor
Paul67,

A bad condenser can give similar symptoms as well.

Check to see if the vent in the fuel tank cap is working. Then you should check to see if the liner in the tank is deteriorating, falling apart, and clogging the fuel line or pump.

As a test, have you tried to increase idle speed a bit just to see if it will continue running without the pedal dance?

Just a thought,
 
P

Paul67

Gold Level Sponsor
No brake booster. RPM stays the same. I dont drive until the temp is in mid range. Mostly it idles fine at stop. Occasionally it will just die. It's not consistant.
 
Scotty

Scotty

Silver Level Sponsor
What did you set the mixture/Idle for on the Weber? If it’s too far off either way, it’ll do exactly what you’re going through and either starve the engine and it’ll stall or flood the engine and it’ll stall, both at random times after you warm up and drive.

The log manifold doesn’t do us any favors on top of that - center two plugs on the dot can make the two ‘corner log’ ones (1 and 4) too lean.

Check your fuel pressure and Fuel Pump to make sure it’s pumping out just gas and not gas and air (and hopefully not debris too). The Webers are very sensitive to fuel pressure.
 
Last edited:
P

Paul67

Gold Level Sponsor
Scotty said:
What did you set the mixture/Idle for on the Weber? If it’s too far off either way, it’ll do exactly what you’re going through and either starve the engine and it’ll stall or flood the engine and it’ll stall, both at random times after you warm up and drive.

The log manifold doesn’t do us any favors on top of that - center two plugs on the dot can make the two ‘corner log’ ones (1 and 4) too lean.

Check your fuel pressure and Fuel Pump to make sure it’s pumping out just gas and not gas and air (and hopefully not debris too). The Webers are very sensitive to fuel pressure.
Click to expand...
I should have said that I got the carb and manifold from Jarome at Alpine Innovations in the UK. Appologies.I have never touched the mixture screw. IIRC the instructions said not to touch it as it was set before shipping. It has the smooth manifold. I'll try upping the idle. I did send the car to a local mechanic to set the timing and do the brakes. I suppose that he could have messed with the mixture although I told him not to. Looks like the weather here will put the kibosh on anything for the next week or so.
 
V

volvoguys

Diamond Level Sponsor
Does your Weber have a Phenolic spacer between the carb and manifold?

To those who know better than I do: Does Jerome's (IA) Weber kit come with the spacer or isn't it needed?
 
C

ColinLM

Platinum Level Sponsor
I had a similar problem on my SV with a Weber on the stock manifold.
Car would start and run fine for maybe 15 to 20 minutes but then stall out when I had to quickly reduce RPM..
I found the choke was not adjusted properly and was partially closed.
The engine was flooding when I quickly reduced the RPM.
Adjusting the choke solved the problem.
 
Scotty

Scotty

Silver Level Sponsor
Paul67 said:
I should have said that I got the carb and manifold from Jarome at Alpine Innovations in the UK. Appologies.I have never touched the mixture screw. IIRC the instructions said not to touch it as it was set before shipping. It has the smooth manifold. I'll try upping the idle. I did send the car to a local mechanic to set the timing and do the brakes. I suppose that he could have messed with the mixture although I told him not to. Looks like the weather here will put the kibosh on anything for the next week or so.
Click to expand...
What did they adjust the timing to?
 
alpine_64

alpine_64

Donation Time
Paul67 said:
I should have said that I got the carb and manifold from Jarome at Alpine Innovations in the UK.
Click to expand...
That's likely the issue....
There was reports of stalling issues with a flaw in the manifold design...I can't recall if it was a vac takeoff for the booster or something else ..but there was a work around.....

Maybe @Tim can chime in as it's biggest advocate... Iirc there is a solution and it was an issue.. but seemed to recall it was about blanking/changing a vac takeoff
 
P

Paul67

Gold Level Sponsor
Scotty said:
What did they adjust the timing to?
Click to expand...
I left him to it. I started with a car that was not running, swapped the manifold, linkage and carbs and got it running but as the front brakes needed rebuilding I sent it to him. At the time I had no concrete to work on.
 
Scotty

Scotty

Silver Level Sponsor
Paul67 said:
I left him to it. I started with a car that was not running, swapped the manifold, linkage and carbs and got it running but as the front brakes needed rebuilding I sent it to him. At the time I had no concrete to work on.
Click to expand...
Check your timing before anything else. The correct ignition timing for a 1725 is 6-10 degrees before top dead center.
 
P

pruyter

Donation Time
alpine_64 said:
That's likely the issue....
There was reports of stalling issues with a flaw in the manifold design...I can't recall if it was a vac takeoff for the booster or something else ..but there was a work around.....

Maybe @Tim can chime in as it's biggest advocate... Iirc there is a solution and it was an issue.. but seemed to recall it was about blanking/changing a vac takeoff
Click to expand...
The flaw you are referring to regards the take off for the engine ventilation which should be closed. I found that out by trial and error while a little later Tim Raymond from the Uk found out the same error while the car was on a rolling road. The later manifolds have this error mended by a plug which closes the hole in the manifold. The problem is that the hole for the ventilation of the engine is situated at the wrong place it should have been more in the centre of the manifold.
So if Paul67 bought this manifold a very long time ago then the possibility exists that he has gotten the old and wrong manifold, but if so then this problem is easy to overcome by closing this hole in the manifold.

Regards,

Peter
 
alpine_64

alpine_64

Donation Time
pruyter said:
The flaw you are referring to regards the take off for the engine ventilation which should be closed. I found that out by trial and error while a little later Tim Raymond from the Uk found out the same error while the car was on a rolling road. The later manifolds have this error mended by a plug which closes the hole in the manifold. The problem is that the hole for the ventilation of the engine is situated at the wrong place it should have been more in the centre of the manifold.
So if Paul67 bought this manifold a very long time ago then the possibility exists that he has gotten the old and wrong manifold, but if so then this problem is easy to overcome by closing this hole in the manifold.

Regards,

Peter
Click to expand...
I knew it was a vac thing... So yes the PCV system take off.
 
P

Paul67

Gold Level Sponsor
I reached out to Jarome at Alpine Innovations. He replied very quickly. I dont believe that's it the fault of the manifold. He did reiterate that he tells his customers to leave the jetting alone but to adjust the mixture and idle when warm. So my mistake on my poor recollection. Hes asked for a picture of the engine bay to see my PCV valve/ no valve situation. I'll dig one out and send it over.
He also suggested looking at the coil etc as others have mentioned. Super nice guy who is always very willing to help. I'll keep you all posted.
 
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