Duratec Installation

[bobw]

Sweet, I like the IDA intake with EFI air doors.

Hope you plan a good engine management system, one that knows how to do leading and trailing spark.

I'm using the same engine controller I used in my airplane. It's an EC2 from Real World Solutions. http://www.rotaryaviation.com/ It remains to be seen how well it will work in the auto application since it's usually set up for a prop load and 75-100% power operating range. They have been used in other auto applications, but I don't know how they worked out. Leading and trailing plugs are fired simeltaneously. I can always change to Megasquirt or something else if it doesn't work well.

What's an air door? The intake manifold and throttle bodies were from Tweakit it Australia. The only EFI setup I could find off the shelf that would fit.

That's an interesting approach to the problem, never thought about doing it that way. I really like the linear pull. Keeps things lined up nicely. My setup requires some ticklish positioning of the cable in order to avoid excessive cable pressure against the cable sheath. It would help if the distance between the arm and cable holder was an inch or so greater, but there just isn't the room. Each installation presents its own problems. One (only?) advantage of my gizmo is the ease with which the ratio can be changed. I decided on a set of dimensions but drilled alternate holes, just in case. Turns out I needed them.

Bill, the first thing I noticed in your pictures was the adjustment holes. That's the first time I though about the linkage lengths being a problem. I may need to add an extra return spring also. It seems like the throttle plate doesn't always want to close completely. I'm still playing with the adjustments.

Bob W.

 

[RootesRacer]

I'm using the same engine controller I used in my airplane. It's an EC2 from Real World Solutions. http://www.rotaryaviation.com/ It remains to be seen how well it will work in the auto application since it's usually set up for a prop load and 75-100% power operating range. They have been used in other auto applications, but I don't know how they worked out. Leading and trailing plugs are fired simeltaneously. I can always change to Megasquirt or something else if it doesn't work well.

What's an air door? The intake manifold and throttle bodies were from Tweakit it Australia. The only EFI setup I could find off the shelf that would fit.

Firing both plugs simultaneously is not the best way about it.
Mazda learned that to get the most power from the engine and to prevent detonation, running each plug with different timing is key. I think this is becuase the combustion chamber is not ideal since the rotor is moving away
from the plugs at a much faster rate than a piston job does, but this escapes me right now.

Megasquirt cant do leading and trailing plug ignition, this requires 4 coils or two distributors on a 2 rotor engine, and MS can do neither.

Air doors are throttle bodies, yours are not magic.
There are quite a few mfgrs across the globe that make one that will bolt on.
The most local is TWM in Goleta CA.
I have something similar on my weber intake on the alpine right now.

 

[bobw]

Firing both plugs simultaneously is not the best way about it.
Mazda learned that to get the most power from the engine and to prevent detonation, running each plug with different timing is key. I think this is becuase the combustion chamber is not ideal since the rotor is moving away
from the plugs at a much faster rate than a piston job does, but this escapes me right now.

Megasquirt cant do leading and trailing plug ignition, this requires 4 coils or two distributors on a 2 rotor engine, and MS can do neither.

Air doors are throttle bodies, yours are not magic.
There are quite a few mfgrs across the globe that make one that will bolt on.
The most local is TWM in Goleta CA.
I have something similar on my weber intake on the alpine right now.

Hmmm, I was under the impression the split timing was mostly to improve emissions. There is only a small power difference between firing both plugs and leading plug only. Trailing plug only is way down in power. I have 4 LS-1 coils, so it won't be too hard to change out the electronics if need be. Since MS can't do split timing, it may not be an improvement over the EC2.

I'm expecting to have more power than I need and I'm not planning on any sort of competitive activities so even if I don't get max possible HP, I will still be happy.

Got it on the air doors. I just hadn't heard them called that before.


Bob W.

 

[Bill Blue]

Here is the finished pulley, installed on the engine.

The viscous drive is a Volvo.

Here is my version of a remote shifter.

It was made from materials on hand, with the exception of the bronze bushings. They are hardware store items, cut to length. The bent thing on the left is an industrial U-joint, been in the family for forty years. Total of $4.50 out of pocket expense.

Here it is mounted on the tranny.

Once again, everything is made of material on hand. The U-joint is mounted on a 5/8" bolt, the head is cut off and the opposite end threaded into the bottom plate of the weldment. The bolt is held in place with a jam nut. Seems to work quite well, no perceptible slop.

 

[RootesRacer]

your fab skills are getting pretty good Bill.

FYI, unless you feel you will need to dissemble the ladder, I would weld that puppy up tight since loosening of those bolts will cause all manners of shifting slop.

 

[Bill Blue]

Jarrid, I think that on final assembly, I will use Loktite along with the lock washers. That should keep it from falling apart and give me the ability for future disassembly.

As to my fabricating skills, we shall see. I have decided to have a go at rotating the starter instead of modifying the steering gear. Makes a lot more sense, but it ain't gonna be easy.

Bill

 

[Bill Blue]

Some more pictures.
Here is my EGR blocking plate. Made it up out of 1/4" steel. They are available "over there" for about 30 bucks. Plus shipping. But they are cast aluminum. What a rip off.

The open port is the water outlet.

Here is the start of my water rail.

Also available "over there" for about $300. Plus. I don't know exactly how this will end up, sort of faking it as I go. So far, it consists of two pieces of 1/4" plate and a piece of 3/8" pipe. The 3/8" pipe is part of the cold engine water circulation circuit. Going to try to use 1 1/2" exhaust pipe for the rail.

Here is the starter housing, ready to begin the transmorgification process.

Here it is, after being milled to cant everything 3/8" and some pieces welded to it to proved meat for the finished product.

In this picture, it is ready for another appointment with Mr. Mill. Forgot to take a picture after the milling process. Tried to take a picture of the finished starter on the engine, but it is meaningless without the engine in the car. Just hope it rotates out of the way.

 

[Bill Blue]

This are the air intake system parts.

The filter is for an Escort ZX2. The housing is part of the ZX2 intake, but does not hold the filter, holds the Mass Air Flow sensor. I thought I was buying the part that holds the filter. My bad, could not get it apart in the junkyard, but I liked the shape of it and was certain it was the piece I needed. Turns out, the part that holds the filter is much to long for the Alpine, so I modded this one to fit. The circular brown thing is the end I made for it, the large ring holds the end in place the two small sheet metal pieces mount the housing on the brake booster holes.

Here is the intake assembly.

Another view of the intake.

The black cone shaped thing poking out of the end is part of the air filter. I will be able to rig up a 4" hose to the horn cut out to get some cool air. Hell YES! Should add 30 hp. Cone filter, an easy 15. Flowmaster muffler decal and a K&N decal and I'm looking at 175-200 hp!!

Bill

 

[skywords]

Bill
I ran those pictures through my trendicator machine and the report came out 100% trendy!! Nice work.

 

[husky drvr]

lol Are you about ready to modify the intake plenum, yet?

 

[Bill Blue]

Yes. Which modification are you refering to? I know of at least two (perhaps three) that must be done.

Bill

 

[husky drvr]

Bill,

I'm impressed with what you have accomplished so far. I was just being a bit facetious about the the way the picture makes it look like a slightly different angle with the throttle body would give a shorter, smoother run for the connecting hose. Not trying to criticize or even suggest that you need to change anything. I was just remembering your lament about remaking things several times.

Keep up the good work,

 

[Bill Blue]

Don, not to worry.

The TB angle is just one of many things that are "Okay", but not what I'd have if I did it over again. I toyed with the idea of angling it down some, but decided it was a lot of work to change something that was functional. I might mill the TB adaptor at an angle to improve things a bit. That would be easy to do.

When I constructed the log, my concerns were hood and cowl brace clearance and I have no way to determine exactly what would be adequate. Just fabricate and see. Hell, I couldn't even make it at the angle I desired, it turned out to be too straighter than I wanted. Air intake was not even on the radar. Just something that had to be addressed in the future. I had no idea how that would happen.

There is one issue that has to be addressed: Intake air for the PCV. I'm thinking I'll have to tap into the TB to get it. Another is the relative position of the log and PCV air nipple on the valve cover. No room to slide the hose on, too close to the log. Somethings gotta give.

I've spent the past fifteen years making stuff from scratch. One of them a 42" mower in three different configurations. I've learned that my initial considerations are always about stuff that are relatively minor or easily solved. In some cases, no existent. The real problems arise when the build is about 75% complete.

I'm 90% there.

Bill

 

[Bill Blue]

No, this is not an auxiliary exhaust pipe.

It is the water rail. Got it "finished" this morning. I say "finished" because it has to be cut to length and a wire soldered around it to help seal the radiator hose. Will have to install the engine to get the exact length. I will probably ditch the exhaust pipe clamp and weld the mounting bracket directly to the pipe. I had to use this setup in order to hold the pipe in position for welding. There is also a problem of clearance for the mounting bolt if the bracket is welded to the pipe.

It is made of a piece of 1 1/2" exhaust pipe (free, complete with bend) welded to a water manifold.

The nipple on the right is for the heater and is there for illustrative purposes, it will be replaced with with another nipple that is the correct length and finished to accept the heater hose. The nipple on the left is for the cold engine water circulation.

A view from the engine side of the rail.

And from the rear of the engine.

The manifold is made up of 1/4" and 3/16" plate. This thing turned out pretty good and I'm happy with it. That is usually a bad omen.

 

[Bill Blue]

Installed the engine/transmission for the umteenth time, this time to do a check on the water rail and starter. The water rail was good and bad bad news, mostly good. The only problem was the heater line. It fouls the steering cross rod. The "manifold" portion is above the rod. So I decided to run the heater line out of the top of the water "manifold". It quickly became obvious I had a choice: Run it up and over the rial, creating a possible air lock, or snake it between the exhaust and water rail. Really, that's only one choice. But it soon became a plumbers nightmare as I have no real ability to bend steel tubing that tightly. The only alternative was to weld a nipple onto the rail. So off to the milling machine. That is a 9/16" end mill doing the honors.

That is my setup. Yes, it is dorky, but got the job done. Home shopping stuff is a continuing battle to make what you need with what you have. Sometimes elegance has to go out the window. Only two questions matter. #1, will it do the job? #2, if it doesn't, will I get killed? If the answers are "Maybe" and "No", you go for it.

Here is the finished rail.

The hose fitting is a modified 3/8" pipe nipple, welded into place. I hereby declare the water rail a success.

Next up, the starter. Here is a shot showing steering arm/starter clearance.

Note the picture is fuzzy. It is the best of a bad crop. So deal with it. I hereby declare the modified starter to be a success. Still need to rig up the stabilizer mount.

I had mentioned the need for a fresh air intake for the PCV system. Here it is in it crude form.

A hole drilled and tapped for 3/8" pipe into the throttle body and my good friend, the modified 3/8" nipple LockTited in place. About 5 minutes with the die grinder and the excess nipple (in the throat of the TB) was removed.

Bill

 

[Bill Blue]

While getting some exhaust work done at the local muffler shop, I ran across a nice 2" gasket. I had been looking for a way to bolt the header to the exhaust system, so I picked up one. Everything I had seen was at least 2 1/2" or had other problems. Anyway, I made up the hardware to go with the gasket and welded one of the flanges onto the header. Here it is, ready for installation.

I think that solves the problem pretty nicely. Cost: $2.00 plus some scrap steel and welding wire.

I had posted a pic of the throttle body with the PCV nipple attached. Here is one with the nipple cleaned up and ready for installation.

Here is a shot of the MAP sensor inserted into the intake log. The typical installation of aftermarket EFI uses a GM sensor that uses a 3/8" pipe thread. Could not find any of those in the JY, I got one that pushes into the intake/filter housing.

I like the way it worked out in this situation.

Here is my solution to the dipstick problem.

It is a piece of cold rolled steel, turned to fit the dipstick opening and LokTited in place. This is after not finding one Duratec engine in the scrap pile at the largest JY in the area. I decided the dipstick is a hold over from 20 years ago. I think I have checked the oil in our household cars perhaps one in the past ten years and that was mostly out of curiousity, wondered just how much oil the Focus had used in 6,000+ miles. It was less than half a quart.

Sorry for the outsized pictures. Suddenly happened and I have no clue as to how to remedy the situation.

Bill

 

[RootesRacer]

Pic 3 is a "MAT" sensor.

Manifold Air Temp.


BTW, its best to have that directly in the airflow, not on the end of a log.

 

[Bill Blue]

The configuration of the fan pulley has been bothering me. The hub was only 5/16" thick and made of aluminum. I knew that even with the LokTite, it was bound to fail, taking the radiator out while doing so. The problem was I could not come up with a solution. Last week This one came to me. I would make a steel hub that would extend back into the bearing housing and be threaded into the pulley. Here is the hub

It is 1/2" wide and made of some mystery metal. All I know is that it did duty for 40 or 50 years as a bolt. It is 1.185" OD (that's where it cleaned up) and threaded 20 tpi.

Here is the housing it will extend into.

Nothing extraordinary here, other than the hole that Ford put into the shaft to draw the pulley onto the shaft. Would you believe it is a 5/16" - 18 thread?

Here is a shot of the inside of the pulley. You can see how the hub extends beyond the aluminum.

The pulley, bored and threaded to accept the hub, which has been installed with high strength LokTite.

It is being held in the lathe (1/2 thou total run out) and awaiting the boring bar to do the final ID. Doing it this way eliminates accumulated error. The hub was bored for about a 1 1/2 thou press fit.

Bill

 

[Bill Blue]

The pulley, press fit onto the shaft.

Actually, that is the second hub. The first hub cocked to one side as it went onto the shaft, resulting in a nice chip being broached out of the hub by the shaft. Also left me with a very light press fit and a crooked pulley. If at first you don't succeed,....

Now, a shift to the motor mounts. I came up with the idea of doing the initial install using hollow bolts and a punch to mark the hole location.

Here it is, ready to be dropped into the chassis.

After the hole is drilled for the motor mount nut, the nut is turned upside down, welded in place and the mount assembled with the rubber biscuit.


That's going to be about it for this thread. It started one year ago tomorrow. It has been a great adventure and I've learned a lot. I hope that anyone contemplating any swap will be able to benefit from my experience. I think it demonstrates that once started, such projects takes on a life of their own, you just follow where it leads. I certainly had no idea it would work out as it did.

The installation into the Orange Monster will start with week, but will be memorialized in a new thread.

Bill

 

[MikeH]

Nice work.