Door pull screws

[SRQJeff]

Does anyone know what's the deal with the screws that attach the door pulls? I seem to have lost two of them. A #8-32 wiggles around loosely, but a #10-32 will go in only a turn or so. My calipers tell me it's about 1/100 of an inch larger than the original screws.

 

[DanR]

Hey Jeff,

I just put my Pull Handles back on for the fifth or forty time while adjusting my windows and door handles and lock assy.

They are 10/32 x 7/8" length and they are the "Originals" that came with my car.

I am still having a bit of trouble with my window rolling all the way to the top at times and suspect one of the door pull handle screws the culpit....

Fix'n to trim 1/8 " off to see what that does.

 

[SRQJeff]

Screws

I dunno. My 10-32 screws act like the thread pitch is wrong. I hate to try forcing them, but that may be the only option. I guess I could run a tap through the holes first. I've also run into a snag that the window cranks and door openers look like they should attach with a 1/8-inch roll pin, but the pins fall right through. But a 5/32 won't go in.

 

[DanR]

I made some from a nail, cut to length.

 

[SRQJeff]

P.S.

P.S., Yeah 7/8 might be too long. I tested the depth with an ice pick, and it seems like if I try to stick it in any deeper than 3/4, it pokes into something.

 

[DanR]

Both work fine at the Driver Door!

And the other one works fine at the Passenger Door.

 

[SRQJeff]

Aha!

Aha, now I see. The roll pins (or nails) don't have to be tight. The chrome bezel keeps them from falling out. Duh!

 

[tylerite3124]

The original pins that hold on the window cranks and door opening handles are tapered, that's why they don't fall out when installed. There are some NOS pins on eBay now being sold by Tim Morin for $18.50 a package.

Rick

 

[65beam]

screws

the pins are tapered so they can easily be installed in the hole and also to help line up the handle and the piece of the regulator that the handles mount to. with out the ring they will fall out.

 

[greenbean]

10/32" is what I chased my threads with, then trimmed the screws to 3/4" worked perfect for me. SS has the handle pins a whole lot cheaper

 

[George Coleman]

A note, the original pull handles had a hard fiber spacer under the door panel upholstery.

 

[65beam]

door

the spacers were also behind the window crank handle.

 

[SRQJeff]

Solved

Thanks, everyone. Yes, 10-32 is the right thread. I guess there was some rust in the hole that was binding a little. Applied some Aerokroil, and they went right in. Had to use hex cap screws, as the heads were too wide in any other configuration.

As for the cranks, I found some taper pins at the local Ace Hardware that worked, 89 cents each. I had to grind them down to the right length, though. About 0.55 inch works.

My original panels had foam rubber spacers, but they don't seem to be necessary with the SS replacements. Looks OK without them. Probably because the replacements are relatively hard plastic instead of cardboard.

 

[SRQJeff]

Same here!

Both work fine at the Driver Door!

And the other one works fine at the Passenger Door.

Yeah, the long screws work in all holes except the one on the rearward passenger side. Window won't open when that one is tightened. I removed 1/4 inch of it, and now it's OK.