convertible top questions????

inline_eric · Oct 30, 2013

Hi All,
I just purchased a convertible top on craigslist that was made back in the 1980s but never installed...I have a SV but this top was designed for a SIV so it does not have the velcro on the top...How should I make this top work? Would it be easier to buy velcro strips with the glue backing and just attach that to the top so it will work with my SV or should I convert the other way...

I am planning on installing this top myself but have never done anything like this...I found an installation thread on the AE/TE website which seems to be pretty thorough... here is the link if anyone cares to look at it

http://teae.org/on-the-installation-of-a-convertible-top/

Are there other installation woes I need to think about...when I got the car the PO had removed the top and left the frame in place with other parts set in a bucket...I appear to be about 10 metal screws short so I hope I can find these at home depot for SS does not seem to have these for sale.
Thanks for any help.
Eric

DanR · Oct 30, 2013

Eric, Can you identify the screws that you are missing? Are they threaded sheet metal about 1/2 in long?

Are they the ones that hold the three metal strips around the back inside of the top? If so, I used Stainless Steel no 6x 1/2" for mine.

PROCRAFT · Oct 30, 2013

top velcro

Eric,
I just did a top on a Tiger the velcro strips need to be sewed along the widow opening,if thats what your leaning towards doing, the velcro strip on the frame attached with with pop rivits there is a metal strip that the velcro folds over maybe 3/4' wide, the velcro that was sent with my top was 2" wide we just folded it over and rivited it in place, we used #8 by 1/2" ss
sheet metal screws for the back strip that holds the top to the body they also were hex head so you could use a ratchet instead of a screwdriver we drilled the strip out to 3/16" and pre punched the seal to alow a little movement. all in all the TE/AE instructions are pretty good, but generally the tops are a pain in the ass to install!!!

Tom H · Oct 30, 2013

Eric, before you begin installing the top, make sure the frame (and window seal strips) matches up to the rolled up windows, with no gap. Often the mounting tabs on the hinges get bent and then there is a gap near the bottom of the side frame. If you have that problem, you need to fix it before installing the soft top.

Tom

inline_eric · Oct 30, 2013

Thanks for the info...I picked up the screws at home depot...packet of 16 for $1.18...they will work great...where do I get velcro that can be sewn??...i bought some of the sticky back stuff that says it is industrial strength...but I heard that before...

Thanks again
Eric

DanR · Oct 30, 2013

PROCRAFT said:
Eric,
I just did a top on a Tiger the velcro strips need to be sewed along the widow opening,if thats what your leaning towards doing, the velcro strip on the frame attached with with pop rivits there is a metal strip that the velcro folds over maybe 3/4' wide, the velcro that was sent with my top was 2" wide we just folded it over and rivited it in place, we used #8 by 1/2" ss
sheet metal screws for the back strip that holds the top to the body they also were hex head so you could use a ratchet instead of a screwdriver we drilled the strip out to 3/16" and pre punched the seal to alow a little movement. all in all the TE/AE instructions are pretty good, but generally the tops are a pain in the ass to install!!!

Mind saying where you purchased your top?

Thanks, I am getting ready to replace my '67 SV top and am looking for the best fit and looks,

DanR · Oct 30, 2013

Eric, I believe it takes 24 screws for the job....

PROCRAFT · Oct 30, 2013

Velcro top

I purchased the top from a company in Rhode Island,M&I mfg, no matter what they say they do not manufacture the top. the top is made in Long Beach Ca. by Acme Auto they sell thru a dealer. The top is a Hartz? stafast canvas like most high end autos its a nice top but leaves something to be desired as to fit. I talked to a friend of mine who did the door panels ect his take is thru the years slight varations from the original patterns effect the fit, this was born out at the United in Maryland I looked at a lot of tops and none are the same as to fit we all agreed that none of them fit as perfect as we'd l;ike, all the material I mentioned is from one manufacture no matter who makes the top, you can get a Robbins top,Acme Auto whatever and the material will come from the same place, you'll also be on your own after purchasing(something we found out) as to any support.
As to sewing try a trim shop in your area.

inline_eric · Oct 30, 2013

Hey Dan I purchased this top off of craigslist..the guy had it stashed away since the early 80s and was never used.
Eric

inline_eric · Oct 30, 2013

Ok guys,
I am going over the instructions again and at the end the author says, "NOTE: The top does not get screwed under the two small copper colored aluminum strips from the back cockpit."

With this statement is he saying the two side pieces that wrap around the back of the car, I am confused because mine are more blackish than copper...it seems like they should help hold the top material tight, but I really don't know.
Does anyone have pictures of this?

Thanks for the help,
Eric

DanR · Oct 30, 2013

ERic, you should have three pieces, two are near identical and 12-15'' long. The other one is much longer and wraps under the back and hold the soft top under the window.

The two shorter pieces "do not" hold down the soft top on the sides.

If you fasten them over the top flaps you will be unable to store the top in its proper position.

I do not have PIC's at present but will provide something perhaps tomorrow if no one else responds before I get a chance.

PROCRAFT · Oct 31, 2013

soft top

The Strips are Aluminum and are anodized black they turn copper colored with age the side strips hold the rubber seal only and the long piece holds the seal and the top fabric ,just as DanR, stated when your fitting the top start get the rear of the window to fit on both sides and start from there,also the top seam should be on the folding bow jus takes a lot of fiddling.

inline_eric · Oct 31, 2013

"when your fitting the top start get the rear of the window to fit on both sides and start from there,also the top seam should be on the folding bow jus takes a lot of fiddling"

Thanks for the great information...I quoted you above...the article says to do the sides behind the drivers and passengers window then move to the front bow...then finish with the back...does that seem right.

I am going to sew the velcro myself using a sewing awl and stronger thread (first time for me using an awl)...I hope this project works out...it will be a learning experience.

Anyway, I need help with a measurement...HOW far in is the velcro from the edge of the top???...1 inch, .5 inch, or what...if I could get a measurement that would be great!
Eric

mikephillips · Oct 31, 2013

Things to note that I've learned replacing several tops over the years.
Not in specific order, just off the top of my head.
1 adjust the top frame to the door windows as previously noted. May require bending or shimming of the tabs where the attach to the frame.
2 Remove the seats and center console from the car, it's much easier moving around inside with the top draped on the frame when they're not in the way.
3 You'll want to have a few spring clamps to hold the top to the frame on the sides so that as you work you don't accidentally shift it on the frame and end up off center.
4 Before you start with the top use some chalk to put a mark on the channel running around the back of the body marking where the center screw will go. The alloy strip isn't an exact fit and if you have to spend time searching for the first hole it will drive you crazy. With its location marked relative to left/right then all you need to do is find it up/down which is a much smaller area to look in.
5 Have a sewing awl or heavy sewing needle clamped in vise grips to use when probing for the first hole. Much easier to poke in and move around than trying with the screw and screwdriver.
6 When you fined the first hole, by poking through the alloy strip, top and weatherstripping leave the awl/needle in place to keep the strip from moving and insert a couple screws on either side. Then remove the awl/needle and insert the remaining.
7 Lay the top over the frame and clamp it in place on the side rails. The rear window center should be in the center between the trunk hinges. I'm not where I can measure right now but I think the bottom edge of the window should be about 4 inches up from the body.
8 As pointed out, the side strips go up against the weatherstripping, the side flaps of the top are not attached to the body.
9 For the front bow pull the fabric up and use the chalk to mark where it goes around the front edge. The fabric will go under the weatherstrip channel on the front bow so the pop rivets will nee to be drilled out and then replaced with the strip. I recommend using stainless rivets if you can. Also when attaching the fabric use some glue to avoid it pulling between the rivets. I also, when attaching, pull the fabric a bit past the chalk line marked so that when finally fastened down to the windshield it will be tight.
10 Side rail attachment is by 4 sheetmetal screws through the vertical trim pieces underneath the weatherstrip. It has no permanent attachment to the horizontal rails, just the velcro on a V.
11 Top frames came with tensioning straps from the from the front bow to the two top bows. Usually missing if not replaced already. You can get material for the straps.
12 When adding the Velcro to the top, won't be more than about 1/4 from the edge. The frame velcro runs down the center of the horizontal rail and the edge of the top should come to the bottom edge of the rail.

inline_eric · Oct 31, 2013

Nice post Mike,
Since I am working from parts that I have never seen together it is like a puzzle...For one I couldn't figure out what the recess is on the front bow in the center...Is that for the tensioning strap...My strap is junk...what should I use for a new strap...seat belt material?
Eric

mikephillips · Oct 31, 2013

Yes. The tensioning straps will go from the front, you should see either the remains or a dent with a couple holes where each one goes. Originally there would be a thin plate on top with a couple pop rivets through to the bow trapping the strap in between. The strap itself would be a heavy material, I wouldn't use seat beat straps as you want something that will have a bit of give. A convertable top replacement shop should be able to supply it. Failing that any online supplier like Moss Motors supplies it for MGs, TRs and the like.

inline_eric · Oct 31, 2013

Thanks for the info Mike...does anyone have any idea of what material I should use for the tension strap that connects to the front bow? Any info would be appreciated.
Thanks
Eric

alpine_64 · Nov 1, 2013

The straps are pirelli webbing, easy to find from rubber suppliers. Make sure you cut them slightly shorter than the distance so they are under tension when the hood is up, they stop the top flapping when its up and a window is down.

Bill Blue · Nov 1, 2013

alpine_64 said:
The straps are pirelli webbing, easy to find from rubber suppliers. Make sure you cut them slightly shorter than the distance so they are under tension when the hood is up, they stop the top flapping when its up and a window is down.

Hmmm. My straps had all the strength of the elastic in a pair of jockey shorts, so I just threw them away, had no idea what their purpose might be. Forty some thousand miles later, we have never had any problems with top flapping.

Now the flapping will probably drive us nuts.

Bill

65beam · Nov 1, 2013

questions

the last top I bought from SS had strips of the top material cut for use as the straps. the local upholstery shop also uses left over material for the straps. check with a local shop for material.