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Clutch master cylinder help!

mr.bridger

Donation Time
I have a '67 that had sat unused for 10 years.The engine is now running pretty good so it's time to tackle clutch and brakes(I'm sure i'll need some help with those,also!)I got the rebuild kit-which is just a rubber cover for the back! I thoroughly cleaned it and reinstalled it.After many attempts to bleed the system nothing is coming out the first outlet at the front of the master cylinder. Does anyone have any ideas of what I can do? Does any one have a spare unit that is good? Thanks for helping! P.S I also need a water heater valve,if anyone has one...
 

Robbo

Donation Time
Congrats for getting her started again. The clutch master rebuild kit should have had more than just the back boot. It should also have included a cup-like seal that goes between the spring and the shaft, a seal for around the front of the shaft and the boot. Similar to this illustration: http://www.jcwhitney.com/clutch-master-cylinder-repair-kit/p2024733.jcwx
Some also include the thin metal washer, but mine didn't. Make sure the cup-like seal goes in the right way against the head of the spring. Doing that backward will twist it around and nothing will happen. As for nothing coming out, that is strange. I would suggest bench bleeding it and operating it to make sure you've got it right. After 10 years, there could still be some good amount of crud build up in the reservoir blocking the hole at the bottom. Some here might suggest an aftermarket with some slight modification, especially if there is pitting or scratches on the inside of yours, but I was able to get mine to operate just fine with some patience and bench testing/bleeding. Good luck!
 

mr.bridger

Donation Time
Thanks for the info,I'll give it another try(I've had that thing in and out half a dozen times already!) Maybe I need to delve in deeper to the guts! Take care.
 

mr.bridger

Donation Time
I did not! I only found out about that part of the procedure after the fact-Needless to say,I will this time. Do you have any tips for the best way to go about it,any help would be gratefully appreciated. Shaun.
 

RootesRich

Donation Time
No specific tips pertaining to the Alpine. Bench bleeding the m/c is similar to other applications. Be prepared to make a mess though.
 

Robbo

Donation Time
I have done a few ways. One way that was interesting is that my clutch slave bleed screw was the same thread. So, I put in the thread and ran a hose from that back into the reservoir. Seemed to work one time in addition to the more traditional methods. The bleed nipple made a difference though and was interesting that it fit for some reason. It also meant that I could try it while still installed against the firewall with two people. Good luck!
 

agmason54

Donation Time
Of all the brake and clutch masters I have rebuilt I have never bench bled any of them. If rebuilt properly they should start pumping immediately. If you bleed it on the bench watch how much fluid dribbles out of the master before you hook up the fitting. I always hook up the fitting first and then bolt the master to the firewall and only then top off the reservoir for bleeding. Did you really take it in and out six times? Who sold you a kit with missing seals? I'm not religious but even that would make the Pope mad...
Al
Not all masters can be rebuilt either. The bore has to be perfect....
Later
 

mr.bridger

Donation Time
Success!

Thanks for all the helpful advise(as varied as it was!)I rebuilt it yet again after discovering fluid on the floor pan the next day-I thought it was all good,never considered the back side where the snap ring seats...word to the wise,get a snap ring tool($15)it beats needle nose pliers and hours of frustration!Not to mention a bent snap ring that doesn't fit after you've twisted it beyond all recognition! I would recommend that once you've rebuilt it,plug the end with the bleeder screw and fill it up,let it sit a few hours where you can see if any fluid has leaked,then you can empty before you install.Then bleed as in WSM.;)
 
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