clean out of fuel system

[am99ey]

Reading around, I am concerned now not to clean out the fuel tank and system before the 1st ingition.
I am also considering having the inside coated on the inside.
How can the the middle part/junction be removed?
Has anyone experience on this (material, procedure, traps etc.)?

The car was not in use for 3 years, i guess the petrol has evaporated.

Thanks
Andy


PS: .. just recognized the page 3 of the previous post "S IV ignition questions... " handling some of the subject.

 

[skywords]

I would not think that the tank needs to opened up at all. There is a acid treatment that will remove any rust and leave the tank clean like new metal. The Eastwood company sells tank cleaning supplies and coatings.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=382&itemType=PRODUCT

 

[Jeff Scoville]

THE end all fix all is to remove the tanks, have them dipped/boiled and coated. Crossover tubes included.
Fix it once.
Fix it right.
Enjoy it forever.

While Eastwood does provide great products, (I use them daily) I can say without a doubt that NOTHING you can do at home can compare to having it done professionaly. The products you can buy WILL NOT remove ALL of the original coating. Nor do they stand up to the red aircraft type sealer that is put in by the pros. Been there, I don't usually get on a soap box, but this is one thing I am absolutely sure about.
Believe me, if you have to pull and re-install the tanks more than once, you'll wish it had been done right the first time.
Live and Learn!

 

[Green67Alpine]

Just what is the procedure on removing the twin tanks, I thought I'd seen a post or article on it but after searching around it can't be found. With so many folks having tank problems.....we need a tech tip !!

Tom J

I'm almost sure the Series V will be running before the Sept 23rd show in Columbia.

 

[britbeam]

Yes do it right. When in doubt send it out to a pro shop that does this all the time. No need to risk all your work on not cleaning the tanks and lines.
Dwain V6 Krazy

 

[am99ey]

I agree with a professional solution.

hmm, the professional shop I asked takes $350.- , per tank!

Got to find another solution! Though of zink, chrome, copper etc.
Any experiences or opinion on that idea?

.

 

[serIIalpine]

The eastwood tank coating system is absolute crap!!!!!

I did it to my tank and the coating pealed off the inside of the tank BEFORE I even put gas in it!

I took my tank to a radiator shop and they did my tank for $150.

It has yet to peel or leak and it's been 6 or 7 years.


Eric

'62 SerII

 

[Bill Blue]

I agree with a professional solution.

hmm, the professional shop I asked takes $350.- , per tank!

Got to find another solution! Though of zink, chrome, copper etc.
Any experiences or opinion on that idea?

.

At $700 dollars, I'd try this:

http://www.stoprust.net/POR-15-Fuel-Tank-Repair-Kit-p-11.html

I coated my tanks with the stuff, as have a few others. As near as I can tell, no complaints. My tanks have yet to see gasoline, but it did not peel off before I got the tanks mounted!

Bill

 

[SIVAllan]

Just what is the procedure on removing the twin tanks, I thought I'd seen a post or article on it but after searching around it can't be found. With so many folks having tank problems.....we need a tech tip !!

Tom J

I'm almost sure the Series V will be running before the Sept 23rd show in Columbia.

Tom,

A written procedure would be very helpful.

I attached a drawing of the SIII and later fuel system, but don't have the order/steps for taking one apart...

Allan

 

[jumpinjan]

The tanks need to come out first. Take some pictures of them before you remove them. Get close ups of the clamps, they are hard to get a screwdriver to and their placement is critical. The factory has them orentated in the best location. Try to keep the rubber hoses in their original loaction & orentation too. All that helps in reinstallation.
Next the elbows and last the middle tube.
Install in reverse order, middle tube first, then elbows then the left & right tanks.
Your deck lid needs to be removed before all this too. You need the rear on jack stands and remove the rear wheels to get inside the wheel wells to remove the tank mounting bolts

 

[Green67Alpine]

Well, That doesn't sound like it should take more than a weekend.............to remove or reinstall, plus the time the shop takes to "boil" 'em out.... then there's the "one thing leads to another" factor.............. so about a month....
I'm sure it's a month well spent..

Tom J

 

[Jeff Scoville]

I agree with a professional solution.

hmm, the professional shop I asked takes $350.- , per tank!

Got to find another solution! Though of zink, chrome, copper etc.
Any experiences or opinion on that idea?

.

Just keep looking, you'll find the same job for $200.00 from someone.
The BEST place to look is a radiator repair.
People that do just tanks think they shoul get hazard pay or something.

 

[jumpinjan]

Our local radiator shop that I and Tiger Auto have used for years, has closed after the owner died recently (after 40 years of business). These good shops are vanishing. He had a policy NOT to bring in a gas tank (to his business facility) unless it was dipped. So we sent all our tanks to the Cincy metal cleaning facility.
Do you newbes know the difference between the terms "dipping" (Ready-strip process) and "boiling" (caustic bath I assume)?
The only way to go, and spend your money on, is the dipping process, believe me.

 

[Bill Blue]

It is possible to strip the tanks with stuff available at the big box home stores. I bought plugs to stop the outlet holes, used some heavy duty stripper, large crushed rocks and a couple of days to get all the stuff out. Soak, shake, rotate to a new side ad infinitum. It ain't easy, ain't nice, sure ain't quick (probably an entire weekend, maybe more for all the parts, can't remember), but it can be done.

Bill

 

[Green67Alpine]

Jan, As far as knowing the difference between the two I'll have to say no on that one. The radiator shop I took my radiator to also does fuel tanks, I would assume(and that's a big one) they do them the same way. After cleaning they are sealed with "red sealer" . I'm going to call them Monday and get more details..

Tom j

 

[SIVAllan]

The tanks need to come out first. Take some pictures of them before you remove them. Get close ups of the clamps, they are hard to get a screwdriver to and their placement is critical. The factory has them orentated in the best location. Try to keep the rubber hoses in their original loaction & orentation too. All that helps in reinstallation.
Next the elbows and last the middle tube.
Install in reverse order, middle tube first, then elbows then the left & right tanks.
Your deck lid needs to be removed before all this too. You need the rear on jack stands and remove the rear wheels to get inside the wheel wells to remove the tank mounting bolts

Looks straightforward except for the forward tank bolts on either side.

Is there a special trick or wrench for removing them?

Allan

 

[jumpinjan]

No tricks, just a 1/2" socket wrench & liquid wrench. They are special bolts too. They all have a "point" on the end, so don't loose them.

Bill Blue - How do you know it works? The Cincy dippers gets ALL the rust off and its not "gray metal" (gray metal = What one gets using muratic acid or media blast. It rusts very quickly.) I pay to have this dirty job done.

 

[Bill Blue]

No tricks, just a 1/2" socket wrench & liquid wrench. They are special bolts too. They all have a "point" on the end, so don't loose them.

Bill Blue - How do you know it works? The Cincy dippers gets ALL the rust off and its not "gray metal" (gray metal = What one gets using muratic acid or media blast. It rusts very quickly.) I pay to have this dirty job done.

Jan, I was referring to the old liner. You can see when its all gone. The stripper is incapable of removing anything but the loosest of rust. But rust was the least of my problems. Used a zinc phosphate solution to get the rust and produce some tooth for the new liner to adhere to.

I just wanted guys that cannot find someone to do the job at a reasonable cost to know they CAN do it.

Bill

 

[SIVAllan]

I assume the bolt heads in the wheel well are the other ends of the pictured nuts.

Not sure about those nuts...are they fixed to the body... or do they come loose once the bolts are removed and consequently one needs a long, open ended, preferably magnetic, wrench to get them back on the bolts? There's not even enough clearance for one to put a finger in there.

Thanks!

Allan

 

[jumpinjan]

Allan,
Don't worry about it. The nuts are captive in a sheet metal clip. You will be fine.