"classic" registration and insurance

[Ron67Alpine]

I't doesn't look like this question has been asked before. Many/most/all? states have a provision for registering a vehicle as a "classic/antique". Most of the time the advantages are things like lower liability insurance, no safety inspection, lower registration fee's...etc. One of the disadvantages is a provision, that it's only to be driven on weekends or going to a "function". I want mine to be a semi-daily driver. From my understanding the inforcement of this provision is virtually non existant. What are your opinions of classic vs regular registration?
On a similar note, getting regular insurance will not generally cover the value of a "classic" car. Blue book value is generally applied. I'd really not want to have put $5000+, into this car, only to have some shmuck run a red light, total my car and only get $500 or less in compensation. What are the options and cost of "classic" car insurance? Specific recomendations of classic insurance companies welcome, also.
Thanks
Ron

 

[serIIalpine]

J.C. Taylor insures my Series 2 for $99 a year with an agreed value of $10K and limited driving per year.

Haggerty is also a very reputable Co.

AAA, progressive and gieco also has coverage available for classic cars

Eric

'62 SerII

 

[Bill Blue]

Licensing enforcement seems to vary from state to state. Indiana offers a classic car license and I occasionally see one on the street in obvious violation of the rules. But not often and the ones I do see are soon off the street or properly plated.

In Indiana, it is not worth the hassle. I think it saves about $25 per year, insignificant in the overall cost of driving an Alpine.

Bill

 

[Nickodell]

Pennsylvania has three categories: "Antique," "Classic" and "Collectible." To be considered under any of these categories the vehicle must be at least 25 years old. I don't know what other criteria are needed for Antique or Coolectible, but when I registered Matilda (in 1980) you had to submit three photos - front, rear and one side - and describe why it was a significant design in the development of the motor car. Goodness knows what they need today. You also have to warrant that the vehicle will be used for "pleasure and driving to rallies" but no commuting, and less than 5,000 miles per year.

The main benefits of being classed as a Classic are 1) you register it once, and get a Permanent owner's card, so no annual renewal and tax; 2) exempt from emission regs. I believe that the emission exemption now is not 25 years, which would make it 1984 - well into the cat converter and emissions testing - but "built before 1969;" 3) low insurance rates.

I use State Farm, and they charge $92 a year with a Declared Value of $10,000. They also negate use for commuting, and limit driving to 5K miles/year. They used to require that you submit a photo of the odometer each year, but don't now. Back about 12 years ago I sent my speedometer to a repair shop in exchange for a newly-rebuilt one. When I sent the photo in it caused consternation: the new speedo was delivered with 30,000+ more miles on it than the old one (they can't reset the odo to zero, by law) and State Farm thought I'd exceeded the allowable miles that year by 500%.

 

[Eleven]

Some insurance terms

First, read the definitions on how your car is valued. Stated Value means that you state and limit the upper value of the car at a value, say $10K. When there is a loss, the ins company will repair or total the car up to $10k but, it will still settle at the cars Actual Cash Value, Cost new less depreciation or in some states, market value. This is exactly the same as your regular modern is covered except there is a limit.
Agreed Value means that you and the company agree that the car is worth $10k and if totalled, you get $10k. Repairs are settled normaly.
Those are the two values you see on classics, if they use a different term, figure out which one of the above it is.
So, here is another take. If you cover your can along with your other cars on the same policy for comp and collision, there is no upper limit but you will have to prove the value (just like stated value above except no top limit). Problem-your adjuster knows Chevys and Toyos but not Sunbeams.
The specialty firms, Haggerty, etc., are more used to your car but are smarter about classics also.
If you want an everyday driver, cover in like an everyday car and pay the frieght. If you want limited use, cover it with the specialists. The only reason my Haggerty policy is so cheap is because they know I cannot use it to go to work, etc.

Hope this helps some.

 

[phatt]

Insurance

I just insured my 67 Series V with Hagerty for an agreed NADA valuation of $17,500. Paul

 

[Lee DeRamus saoca0404]

Quite a few members of our club, British Motoring Club of New Orleans lost cars to the salt water flooding of hurricane Katrina. It seems that the company that paid off the best and quickest for the agreed value with no BS, was American Collectors Insurance www.americancollectors.com. Eventually all of the other companies, did the same. Because of this, many of the members changed their incurance company to them.

 

[AlpineII]

I went through the same concerns that you all have, I want to drive me Aliwen as much as possible, want reasonable annual insurance fees and want it "replaced" if something goes bad.

I insured my Alpine with State Farm as a normal daily driver but had my car appraised by a registered pro so I could get the replacement value of my Alpine without depreciation. Runs me $250 CDN and change a year with unlimited driving and no special conditions.

 

[Ron67Alpine]

Thanks all, I appriciate the feedback and information.
Ron