Brake Pedal

[Steeman01]

Hey Everyone. So I bought my SV project with the brake pedal and master cylinder removed from the car . Does anyone have a good diagram of the pedal installation? I see that there are threads in the top hole of the pedal bracket that also would be the same bolt for the master cylinder to attach on the other side of the firewall. Is that an extremely long threaded bolt? Any help is appreciated!!

 

[jumpinjan]

Yeah, there's three bolts, two of them hold the pedal and the third hold the master. It's the top two bolts that fasten the pedal. 5/16-24 bolt...I'm not sure what the length is, surely about 2" length or longer.
Jan

 

[DanR]

As Jan stated 5/16-24 and from 2" to 3 1/4" depending on the spacer (s) you will need.

AS an added note: Use grade 8

 

[Steeman01]

Thanks everybody for the comments so far. Does anyone have a photo or could take a photo of what the setup is for the bolts and the engine bay for the master cylinder on the brakes? Does the top bolt that goes into the pedal come from the engine bay the firewall?

 

[jumpinjan]

Right, the very top bolt goes in the top of the pedal mount; The 2nd bolt down goes in the pedal and also the master cyl; The 3rd bolt down goes into the master only. So the bolts must be different lengths and it's helpful to have a helper to get that first bolt threaded
Jan

 

[Steeman01]

Thanks @jumpinjan ! Last bit, does the top bolt go in from the firewall side? I hope so, given that I can't even access that hole from inside the cab! Figure it does, but don't want to assume!

 

[DanR]

Mine go in from inside the Alpine (top and bottom), just takes a lot of patience

 

[Tom H]

You can see from the third from last last picture here that the nuts for the master cylinder are on the engine side

http://wp.mhartman.net/home/cars/sunbeam/alpine/photos?mg_page=2

 

[Alpine 1789]

Mine go in from inside the Alpine (top and bottom), just takes a lot of patience

This is a job. where a helper really helps. Absent that, I generally hold the bolt (inside the cabin, as Dan notes) with a needle nose Vice Grip. As I recall, small or medium Vice Grip will fit inside the pedal mounts, too.

 

[mikephillips]

ok, so since the question hasn't really been completely answered, the top bolt for the pedal assembly goes in from the engine compartment side. You should see a tube sticking out right beside where the fender brace mounts to the firewall. That bolt goes into the top of the pedal bracket. The one above the large hole for the master goes through the bottom of the bracket and through the top of the master and spacer. The bottom one goes through the master and spacer. Both bottom ones mount from the inside.

To install the top one I've put a temporary bolt through the bottom of the bracket then run the bolt through the top, that way one person can do it if necessary. Then remove the temporary bolt and slide in the master. You can put the bolts through then from the engine side twist the master slightly to pinch the bolts so they won't turn as you install lock washers and nuts. I then put a box end over the nuts and use a ratchet with socket to tighten them from the footwell side. Takes a bit of moving back and forth but if you're by yourself the process works.

 

[Steeman01]

@mikephillips, you rock! This is EXACTLY what I needed (and hoped) to hear! Thanks everyone!

 

[PROCRAFT]

ok, so since the question hasn't really been completely answered, the top bolt for the pedal assembly goes in from the engine compartment side. You should see a tube sticking out right beside where the fender brace mounts to the firewall. That bolt goes into the top of the pedal bracket. The one above the large hole for the master goes through the bottom of the bracket and through the top of the master and spacer. The bottom one goes through the master and spacer. Both bottom ones mount from the inside.

To install the top one I've put a temporary bolt through the bottom of the bracket then run the bolt through the top, that way one person can do it if necessary. Then remove the temporary bolt and slide in the master. You can put the bolts through then from the engine side twist the master slightly to pinch the bolts so they won't turn as you install lock washers and nuts. I then put a box end over the nuts and use a ratchet with socket to tighten them from the footwell side. Takes a bit of moving back and forth but if you're by yourself the process works.

All this info is correct however I never use lock washers just a plain washer and a plain nut and you can tighten them from the engine side friction eventually wins out!