Bonnet (hood) latch alignment

[mattinoz]

Anybody got a method for getting the alignment of the catch/lock correct without the risk of locking it forever? Tips and and tricks.

I thought I'd done it, lock it forever that is, but managed to get it open, not before considering unbolting the hinges through the front valance. phew!!

 

[alpine_64]

Anybody got a method for getting the alignment of the catch/lock correct without the risk of locking it forever? Tips and and tricks.

I thought I'd done it, lock it forever that is, but managed to get it open, not before considering unbolting the hinges through the front valance. phew!!

Matt,

No tip for that... but another.. You have a SV.. they shoudl have the cable bonnet release, not rod. Its worth running a second cable through just incase!

 

[mattinoz]

what, in case the original breaks? Nice idea but I've just sealed the top cover in place. Don't fancy pulling it out again

 

[Bill Blue]

what, in case the original breaks? Nice idea but I've just sealed the top cover in place. Don't fancy pulling it out again

A lot of guys have an ugly piece of ordinary "bailing" wire, wrapped around the trip lever and ending somewhere under the dash, "just in case".

Bill

 

[Nickodell]

http://www.sunbeamalpine.org/forum/showthread.php?t=12192&highlight=bonnet

 

[RootesRich]

Getting back to the original question on how to get the latch aligned...

Place a cork in the latch and rub chalk on the tip of the lock. Slowly lower the bonnet so that the lock will mark its position on the cork. Adjust the position of the lock until the mark is centered on the cork. Remove the cork and the latch and lock will positioned correctly.

 

[Nickodell]

Rich: I like the cork and chalk method. However, what part of

the holes on each end lug for the bolts are elongated, allowing some adjustment, and I had stupidly put it where it was too far towards the edge of the bonnet (i.e. towards the rear of the car), which meant that even at full "pull," the release mechanism was unable to unlatch it.

I slackened the bolts and carefully lined the striker lugs in the same position as before, using the marks the bolt heads had made on them.

do you reckon doesn't address "the original question"?

I will add one thing. If you err, make sure it is to place the latch mechanism slightly toward the front of the car. This will ensure that the cable release can operate through its full range of movement. What is fatal is to err the other way, with the result that the release cannot pull the latch fully, rendering the bonnet sealed shut.

For the striker (on the hood itself), as I detailed in my Sept. 09 post, it's the opposite. If you position this too far rearward, even with a full range of latch motion it may not release.

 

[RootesRich]

Nick, you were lucky having a reference point with marks being made by a previous installation.

In my case I had no reference markings so your tip would not have worked for me. I suspect Matt, having asked the question, is in a similar situation as I once was.

BTW, the using chalk and a cork to line the parts up is not something I dreamed up. This was a tip in the Horn some years back.

 

[SRQJeff]

It works

Glad I ran into this old post. The cork and chalk worked for me. I substituted a piece of 5/8" wooden dowel for the cork. Regarding the cable problem, couldn't you take the cable loose under the dash and pull on the whole thing? I haven't tried it, and there could be some reason why that won't work, but it's an idea.

 

[Stephen]

Matt
2 things I used old lip stick to mark bonnet bolt to a piece of flashing I hot glued over latch, also I found a 12 inch piece of 1/32 cable with machined loops on the ends and set it in pin on latch release through the fire wall gromet under the dash
Stephen

 

[beamdream]

Anybody got a method for getting the alignment of the catch/lock correct without the risk of locking it forever? Tips and and tricks.

I thought I'd done it, lock it forever that is, but managed to get it open, not before considering unbolting the hinges through the front valance. phew!!

I simply taped a clean sheet of paper across the latch plate, gently pushed on the paper to reveal the hole, smeared a dab of grease on the cone and lowered it to the paper to see where it left its mark. Lifted the bonnet, adjusted the mechanisms for alignment and repeated the exercise 2 or 3 times to get it right.

I also laid a small block of wood in the channel behind the latch just in case I slipped and the bonnet locked. This experience came after I had removed and refitted the latch incorrectly, subsequently the bonnet closed and jammed the mechanism.

No amount of substitute latch release mechanisms were going to work here, I finished up taking 2 hours and layers of skin from my wrist/knuckles removing the front hinge bolts from beneath, to eventually get enough wriggle on the bonnet and work the latch loose; just stopped short of getting out the angle grinder.

 

[JonPiz]

re latch position

I never thought of the cork as it stops you accidently locking the bonnet. I used to stick masking tape across the catch and lower the pin till it marked the tape. Ive just taken my bonnet off to polish so I must go an buy a bottle of wine

 

[Jay Laifman]

I recall my dad saying that he removed the spindle and put it into the latch. He then put tape over the bonnet where the spindle would normally go. He lowered it so that the spindle poked a hole into the tape. He then drew two perpendicular lines through the hole to tape that was beyond the boundaries of where the latch would go. He remounted the latch and lined up the spindle with the two lines.

I've never done it. But he swore by it.

 

[Acollin]

Hood alignment

Someone with a whole lot more knowledge than I should create a video.

 

[RootesRich]

Someone with a whole lot more knowledge than I should create a video.

Come to SUNI VI next month and I'll show you how it's done in person.

 

[jmahall]

Is there a way to adjust the spindle up or down? I have it aligned just right but the hood doesn't pull down all the way. Actually really don't know if it's engaging fully or just with the safety latch.

 

[Jay Laifman]

I believe that the spindle can be adjusted - a little bit - up and down, by holding the nut and screwing the spindle in and out. BUT I DO NOT KNOW how far that goes. Because if you go out too far, and come out of the threads, wouldn't the spring then shoot the spindle?

 

[jmahall]

I'll give it a try...

 

[Jay Laifman]

If I recall correctly, the nut is a lock nut, and the spindle spins in and out of a threaded hole in the base. Maybe it runs out of spring compression before the spindle comes out of the lock nut.