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Boiled Plastic

P. Scofield

Bronze Level Sponsor
Interesting atricle from this months RockAuto Newsletter. Several Alpine parts came to mind. :)

===============================================

Tired of breaking the old, brittle plastic clips that hold on exterior and interior trim? Worried that the plastic thermostat housing will either leak or crack after being over tightened? Hoping for a way to rejuvenate the yellowed plastic gears, slides and rollers in that window regulator? Having trouble sliding the plastic handles onto the metal rods that came with that new foosball table? The answer to these and other plastics conundrums is an elixir available at the nearest kitchen sink.

My dad was a plastics engineer for 30+ years. One of the best tips he has given me thus far is to rejuvenate and limber up old and new thermoplastic polymers by soaking them for a minute or so in boiling water. The results with nylon can be especially dramatic. Yellowish nylon goes into the water brittle and comes out supple and milky white. New composite thermostat housings, foosball table handles, and other plastic pieces that must be mounted to metal become slightly more flexible and are an easier and better fit.

The boiling water does not melt the plastic. Soaking nylon in room temperature water for a long time has the same impact as a short bath in boiling water. The chemistry is too complex for just the son of a plastics engineer to explain. Basically the moisture releases tension between polymer molecules that was created when the plastic was first made (molded, extruded, etc.) or that built up over time as the plastic was exposed to sunlight, heat, chemicals or otherwise aged.

Over the years I have only seen good results from putting my plastic parts in boiling water. At worst the plastic seems unaffected, probably a thermoset plastic (rigid body parts, distributor caps, Bakelite, etc.). However, there are myriad plastic resin recipes and plastic products out there and I must include a disclaimer and encourage common sense and caution. Do not soak plastic pieces that include electronics, gaskets, lubricants, paint, adhesives, decals, etc. that are not supposed to be exposed to water. Do not bring a plastic part out of a freezing garage and immediately dunk it into a boiling pot of water. Thin, molded plastic pieces like interior trim or milk jugs might lose their shape if exposed to heat. Heat and moisture from boiling water might not be uniformly transferred through very thick plastic pieces. If you are at all concerned about the temperature of boiling water, then maybe instead try soaking the plastic piece in unheated water for a day or two. Don’t boil a greasy composite valve cover in your spouse’s favorite spaghetti kettle…

Tom Taylor,
RockAuto.com
 

Alpine 1789

SAOCA President
Diamond Level Sponsor
I had the same thoughts when I read it. The first one that came to my mind was the windshield washer bottle. What else was on your mind?
 

Rootes 66

Donation Time
Paul
If its a rod type pull they are held in place with a small (1/16 3/32) roll pin, no need for glue.
Pete
 

Rootes 66

Donation Time
Paul
There must have been a change in design somewhere along the line, All I've ever come across are the pin type, I reproduced some handles in Polyurethane a few years ago and never had any feedback that they were any different from what was being replaced.
Pete
 

Limey

Donation Time
Not yet but I heard that if you soak it in a plasticiser it re infuses the polymers or whatever and it regaisns some original softness. google liquid palstisisers and you might find the secret.

Ester plasticizersPlasticizers used in PVC and other plastics are often based on esters of polycarboxylic acids with linear or branched aliphatic alcohols of moderate chain length. These compounds are selected on the basis of many critieria including low toxicity, compatibility with the host material, nonvolatility, and expense. Phthalate esters of C8 alcohols meet these specifications and common plasticizers.

I'll just nip down the shop for a pint of Phthalate esters of C8 alcohols. Job done then:rolleyes: and if it doesnt work i'll drink it:D

Oliver
 

greenbean

Donation Time
So does the water thing work on the nylon/plastic Brake Master Cylinder cup & cap? Someone must hav an old one lying around they are willing to sacrifice:rolleyes::rolleyes:
 

Asm109

Donation Time
So does the water thing work on the nylon/plastic Brake Master Cylinder cup & cap? Someone must hav an old one lying around they are willing to sacrifice:rolleyes::rolleyes:

Nylons have an ability to absorb water at much higher levels than most other polymers. The swell when they do.

Polyethylene and Polypropylene on the other hand absorb almost no water.

A quick dunk in hot water will make any plastic:
A: grow
B: get softer.

Both of those things will help with a press fit part being reinstalled without breaking. But don't count on any long term property improvements.

Nylon might be the exception because it does absorb the water.

I don't know what the brake fluid cup and lid are molded from. I would guess that it is Polypro or Polyethylene.
 

tylerite3124

Platinum Level Sponsor
Boiling Plastic Windshield Washer Bottle

OK so I tried to boil a dingy plastic washer bottle to make it look decent. Nothing happened. It's still the same old dingy washer bottle I had before the test. Anyone else have any luck?

Rick Guest
 

tylerite3124

Platinum Level Sponsor
Boiling Plastic Windshield Washer Bottle

Yes, it was a hard boil. It was in the boiling water for a little over 2 minutes. I was afraid to leave it in any longer in case the plastic started to disform.

Rick Guest
 

gordonra

Donation Time
I've been reading on line....

Nylon has many formulations so the specifics vary a bit. Basic operating temps max 210°F, but the melting point is ~400°F. I suspect that boiling will not obtain the desired results.

Some articles suggest bleach to whiten, but some also say that bleach will turn it yellow (usually this is referring to fabrics). Apparently bleach will strip other colors and leave the yellow.

Most of the information I've seen indicates that spraying or soaking the part in citric acid (straight concentrated lemon juice) and exposure to UV light, such as putting in direct sun will remove the yellow cast. Some sites recommend hydrogen peroxide instead of citric acid.

Rich
 

Limey

Donation Time
Found it (I think)

Softening old rubber

My racing friend mentioned a product banned in his championship which was a liquid brushed on tyres to soften them by up to 20 points. My ears pricked up as it can't be a simple solvent as this would be flammable; more liable to make the tyres slip rather than grip and ruin the rubber.

The gear is 'Grip' tyre softener.

Here is the link to their web site http://www.griptyresoftener.com/ and a copy and paste of their blurb.

.: Welcome to the GRIP website :.
GRIP is the established UK-developed tyre softener, designed to produce outstanding traction in all forms of high-performance driving, from street to full race and using road or racing tyre compounds.

GRIP, available in a new “improved” formula, gives all the benefits of soft, sticky tyre compounds without the expense. This non-toxic, non-flammable liquid is simply painted on to the surface of the tyre, whether treaded or slick, and left to cure for 3-4 days to ensure adequate penetration and softening.

Durometer testing (used to measure tyre softness) reveals that one application of GRIP can increase the softness of a tyre by up to 20 points. By comparison, a traditional drag racing burnout will achieve a tyre softening effect of around 5 points.
GRIP uses a long-lasting, proven formula that stays in the tyre for much longer periods (it does not evaporate) and so is ideal for circuit racing, karting and motorcycle racing - in fact virtually any road race environment. GRIP works on all kinds of tyres, both old and new, and by reversing the aging process, can even extend tyre life.

It is non-flammable and non-toxic.

Essex Parts Services Inc
125 Hampton Court
Cramerton
North Carolina
28032
USA

Tel: +1 (704) 824 6030
Fax: +1 (704) 478 1030

and from Demon Tweeks and Hauser racing in the UK

I got a litre of it and soaked a stiff grommet for two days and Ta-Da!! soft and pliable.

I am now soaking a pebble hard battery cage rubber. After one day it is becoming pliable. I will leave for a second day.

No clue on the tin as to the chemical involved

Oliver
 
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