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AND SO THE FUN BEGINS

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Charles Johns

Donation Time
Nice work all around Joel. I wanted to mount my battery low but could not figure out how with it in the trunk...and I want luggage there also. It ended up in the fender space on the passengers side. I may close it off and vent it out the bottom. It will be vented no matter because my wife had a battery explode while at a Ford dealer in our 1977 LTD II. I had heard of it happening but never had it happen, and battery acid goes everywhere. Maybe a Masonite panel just to force gasses out the bottom if it starts gassing. It is as far back as it can go for a 750 CCA 24F size, and can be removed with no moving of the fuel filler. That took lots of measuring and installing/removing/installing/etc. My racing days are long gone but I love seeing a race car go together, especially when done right. Keep posting pix so I can steal some ideas.
 
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Charles Johns

Donation Time
I think you are using about the BIGGEST pipe you could fit in the space available. My little 2.3 Four Banger uses 2.25" pipe off the header pipe of 1 5/8" into a 2 1/4" pipe, into a 2 1/4" glasspack, 24" long. For 110 HP with maybe 135 lbs. ft. torque all below 5K, I figure I am okay. May I ask just how much you have LEANED ON that motor? Are you building for the track? With the rearend work, suspension changes, body mods, and overall quality, I assume this is not a grocery-getter.
 
MikeH

MikeH

Diamond Level Sponsor
PROCRAFT said:
Flanges are a waste of time in my book, if you run the tail pipes thru the frame you'll find it make things complicated, I don't have them on the V8 car and never had them on any of the Tigers!
Click to expand...
I guess that would also take care of any frame clearance issues, too.
 
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Charles Johns

Donation Time
Joel, lots of clearance. I can see at least a matchbook cover distance in a couple of places. Besides, this thing looks like it is made to GO, not sit and be worked on. That is why we try to do it right the first time. Can you pull it out to TIG it up? Just curious.
 
Series6

Series6

Past President
Gold Level Sponsor
Charles Johns said:
I think you are using about the BIGGEST pipe you could fit in the space available. My little 2.3 Four Banger uses 2.25" pipe off the header pipe of 1 5/8" into a 2 1/4" pipe, into a 2 1/4" glasspack, 24" long. For 110 HP with maybe 135 lbs. ft. torque all below 5K, I figure I am okay. May I ask just how much you have LEANED ON that motor? Are you building for the track? With the rearend work, suspension changes, body mods, and overall quality, I assume this is not a grocery-getter.
Click to expand...

These are under the valve covers.
 

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Series6

Series6

Past President
Gold Level Sponsor
When I was in Arizona I saw a listing on eBay for that engine and a bunch of other items V6 related. There was a guy on the Eastside who had been racing a turbo Mercury Capri. The rules for the class had changed to allow them to use normally aspirated V8 engines. This engine with his spare. He had installed it in the car and dyno tested it at 273 hp and about 240 pounds feet of torque. I still have the dyno sheet. Joel Will have to confirm when he gets the heads off if they actually have the modifications the guy told me they did. We should know that shortly. Joel will probably put higher compression pistons and a performance cam in it. That of course will be his call when he gets everything disassembled. I can't imagine with that engine is going to be capable of when Joel is done with it.

I did some research on the rockers a few years back and it turns out they were made by a company in Carson City Nevada as I recall. Joel may be able to read the name off of them. I don't know if they're still in production though.

FYI. Again Arizona I had a friend of mine around the corner that would time trial his Fiat X19. I traded him the turbo stuff for a welder and some other gizmos.
 
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Charles Johns

Donation Time
I thought seriously about a V6 install and bought a book on the Capri modifications. In Europe they ran strong back a few years and had lots of speed equipment. I decided to go Old School with a 4 cylinder, basic mods, hotter ignition, better exhaust, mild cam for the street, cool-air intake, Autolite 287cfm two barrel (annular atomization) on an Esslinger aluminum intake, and no computers. Red Line will be about 5,000 RPM with peak HP around 4800 and max torque about 3,000 RPM. With torque close to the 75 MPH highway speed of 2885 RPM, MPG should be great. My next big thing is finishing the car and driving to see some of you fellow Alpine guys. Buying wood today to build a TILT. I had my 65 Mustang running for over 20 years, and I am finding I don't work as fast as I once did. Are you listening Mr. Blue?
 
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Charles Johns

Donation Time
Joel, I chased electrons for over 20 years repairing TV's, stereos, and satellite systems. Our 77 LTD had an electronics ignition that went out here in Texas when things got hot, which happens here. Ford moved the control box inside the car which helped but electrons do not like excess heat, and FI with electronic timing requires sensors to make it function. The Duraspark system is a good one but after studying both systems I can find ZERO advantage to electronics in a carbureted street engine other than maintenance. Even MSD's tests show no gain in the lower RPM's, plus the points have a much longer spark. By increasing the voltage (hotter coil), in a points system (longer spark), using copper wires (virtually no resistance), the best available parts (BWD SELECT points/cond./ rotor/cap), and Platinum Plugs gapped a few thousands larger (.034 to .038), I will have a hotter-longer spark to light the fuel-air mix that will be helped with a Cool-Air intake and annular atomization. Add to this the 4-cylinder has only 4 lobes on the Dizzy cam giving more time for the primary coil winding to build voltage. Engineering formulas say a 4-banger with points can reach over 8,000 RPM safely, and I am building for much lower revs. I have nothing against modern electronics but changing because people say it is better simply is not looking at facts. With distributor less ignition, fuel injection, today's emissions standards, todays fuels, smaller engines running at higher RPM's, turbo chargers adding boost, and electronic shifted transmissions, a computer is necessary. With my setup I think 110 HP will be easy and 30 plus MPG at 75 MPH on the highway. Back in the 1980's my 289 in a 40 Ford coupe made 250 HP and got mid 20's MPG on the highway running the AC without OD. After decades making MAX HP with SBC and Fords, I just want to try this for the fun of the experiment. I built my own distributor with after market advance springs for full advance by 2,900 RPM, use BWD Select parts, use an ACCEL 8140 coil, MSD .8 ohm ignition resistor, No Loss copper ACCEL wires, Platinum Plugs, and keep things tuned. This is the setup I used before with much success in highway V8 cars. This IS NOT for a race motor or any motor expected to see 5K plus regularly. Time will tell.
 
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Charles Johns

Donation Time
Solving mechanical problems seems to be an affliction for car builders. "Interesting" is a nice way to put serious work. If they went together without problems to solve we probably would just buy a nice factory model and "tinker" with it like most so-called car guys. I once thought I could flame paint a yellow 40 Ford coupe with opaque colors. I pinstriped back then and laid down some nice flames. It worked but not very well. A good friend said my car looked like scrambled eggs that I drove into a giant bottle of catsup. He was right but Brian Brinnan (sp) with Street Rod magazine was there for our Dallas Area Street Rods sponsored Rod Run in Waco. We helped another club. I parked my 40 with the nose under a low hanging tree...but I learned a lesson. If nobody else who paints is doing it, it probably is not going to work. That is why I did LOTS of research about points/electronics ignitions. Bought lots of wood today. Got a senior discount, $25.00 discount for charging items, and a military discount...still spent $150.00 plus. Joel, my prediction of a year to a year and a half is looking more like maybe two to two and a half. Things go slower these days...if they go at all.
 
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