1964 SUNBEAM BRAKES - MASTER CYL

[fonz]

Wanting to change my alger brake system to a DUAL MASTER CYLINDER. What Master Cyl (year/make/model)can I use that will be "user friendly" as in bolting to the firewall and pedal ?? Thank you

 

[260Alpine]

Fonz, I did a search for you:

Search results for query: tandem master cylinder

forum.sunbeamalpine.org

 

[Toyanvil]

I used a 1975 B1600 Mazda pickup M/C. It works great with my Miata motor, not sure if it will clear your motor.

 

[0neoffive]

Wanting to change my alger brake system to a DUAL MASTER CYLINDER. What Master Cyl (year/make/model)can I use that will be "user friendly" as in bolting to the firewall and pedal ?? Thank you

Ford Courier or 80;s Subaru Bratt units work fine.

 

[Barry]

Ford Courier or 80;s Subaru Bratt units work fine.

Using a 13/16" tandem MC for a Subaru Brat or a 7/8" tandem MC for a Ford Courier will result in high brake pedal effort.

There is a reason that Series Alpines without a brake booster used either a 0.700" (Series I & II) or a 0.750" master cylinder (Series 3/IV/V).

 

[fonz]

as you can see, the stock MC is bolted to the firewall with 1 bolt on top, the other on the bottom. everything I'm looking at has the mounting bolts 1 on Each SIDE ! OK, NOW i SEE THAT THE COURIER IS 1 TOP, 1 BOTTOM

 

[Toyanvil]

The 1975 B1600 Mazda pickup M/C I used is a .75 bore. And is also the same M/C that the same year Ford Courier uses.

 

[Robertm]

I just got my series v Alpine running after about 5 years of not. The brakes are not very responsive to say the least. Pedal is rock hard. I'm thinking about buying a series one or two master cylinder and swapping with mine to hopefully improve brake feel. Does anyone know if they mount without any modifications?

 

[Robertm]

By the way, no servo on my current master cylinder.

 

[todd reid]

• yes, the older style will bolt right in - no mods required.

TR

 

[Barry]

I just got my series v Alpine running after about 5 years of not. The brakes are not very responsive to say the least. Pedal is rock hard. I'm thinking about buying a series one or two master cylinder and swapping with mine to hopefully improve brake feel. Does anyone know if they mount without any modifications?

As Todd noted, there is no difference in the mountings.

Compared to modern cars, Series Alpines (even those with brake boosters) require a lot of brake pedal effort. Your S-V left the factory with a 7/8" (0.875") brake master cylinder and a Girling vacuum-operated hydraulic brake booster (aka, servo). Not having the booster more or less doubles the required brake pedal effort.

Changing from a 0.875" to a 0.700" brake master cylinder will reduce the required brake pedal effort (and increase the required brake pedal travel) by about one-third.

Replacing the missing brake servo will reduce the required brake pedal effort by about one-half without increasing the required brake pedal travel.

There is not much difference between the cost of an aftermarket brake booster and the cost of an S-I/II master cylinder, so ...

 

[Robertm]

Thanks to both for the information. It’s great to have a group where a non-mechanic or non-mechanically inclined person can go for help.

 

[Jay Laifman]

FYI, I personally think there is too much travel for a .70 without a booster. I switched to .75 from Wilwood. I needed the shorter MC to fit between the firewall and the Webers. I like the feel much better.

Wilwood Disc Brakes

MasterCylinder No: 260-15098, master cylinders, aluminum tandem, combination remote, compact master cylinder, go-kart master cylinder, handle-bar master cylinder, rebuild kits, high volume, hvm master cylinder, tandem, bleeding kits

www.wilwood.com

 

[Robertm]

Thanks for the info. I actually already bought the .70 master cylinder from sunbeam specialties, but , of course I already stripped the nut attaching the break line to the master cylinder. That stopped me until I bought some vice grips and now I’m finally fighting to reattach everything. This is typical of how my projects go. Hopefully tomorrow I’ll be able to see if it all works.

 

[Jay Laifman]

You MUST use flair nut wrenches on flair nuts (which the brake line nuts are) and the bleeder valves!!!! But, I guess you know that now.

(Box wrenches also work on bleeder valves - but not the open flat ends)

 

[911tr8r]

just jumping in to say that I just installed new MC from FOrd Courier. Great and no booster

 

[Robertm]

The new mc is definitely an improvement but now I’m trying to figure out why it pulls to the right. I think it’s largely an alignment problem that I just noticed now that Im able to drive the car. Seems to pull slightly without braking and really pulls under breaking.

 

[260Alpine]

Did you change out the hoses? My guess is, the way it is pulling, that caliper is sticking or the other side isn't working at all.

 

[husky drvr]

Might be a rear brake issue,. One side not adjusted properly or oil contamination due to leaking seal.

Just a thought,

 

[Robertm]

I did not replace the hoses. is there a way to check the caliper to see if it’s sticking? i noticed the right inside brake pad is much more worn than the others. Is that indicative of a sticking piston?
I have not checked the rear drums, but I will. If the seals are leaking, does that show up inside the drums?

Thanks for the help.