1725 Badge / Motif Restoration

[fordlandia]

I've posted a slideshow depicting the steps I used to restore the 1725 badge insert on my Series 5 Alpine (my first Alpine... long time Tiger owner, but purchased a one owner '66 Alpine a while back). I thought this might be helpful to someone who wants to retain the original insert.

Once the plastic part is removed, both sides can be "sanded" by rubbing the insert back and forth on a piece of wet sandpaper (progressively finer grit). On the front, you continue until it is smooth enough to then switch to plastic polish to buff it to a high polished state.

The back side does not need to be polished, just very smooth and clear of the black paint. Then, if you need to add a bit of chrome silver to the lettering, you can do so, being careful not to get any on the back.

Then, I placed the face of the motif on strips of masking tape to protect it while spraying semi-gloss black. After it is dry, replace in surround and reattach to car.

http://s1299.photobucket.com/user/fordlandia/slideshow/ALPINE 1725 LOGO

Regards,

Bill Waite

 

[bmohr]

Nice work and nice documentation. Thanks

 

[inline_eric]

Bill,
Thanks for the post...I've been wanting to restore my badges...I used a headlight restore kit...it has the sand paper and polish in the kit...the badges turned out nice...I couldn't match the chromed area using the chrome paint...but the only badge missing some chrome lettering was the trunk badge and it still doesn't look bad using chrome model paint. Fun Saturday morning project.
Thanks again,
Eric

 

[fordlandia]

Thanks, glad to be of help!

Eric, good to know that the type of polish in a headlight kit would be perfect, I suppose any good brand of plastic polish would work well. I happened to use the "Novus" brand of plastic polish, bought mine via Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1381014389&sr=8-4&keywords=novus

I have another badge to restore and will add some photos to the slide show depicting the sanding and polishing process. I'll also make note of the various grades of sand paper I use.

Regards,

Bill

PS: After reattaching the badge, I installed my "year of manufacture" license plate. In our state, you can get a very inexpensive "lifetime" registration for classic cars (just $35, good forever) when you use a genuine plate from the same year as the car. The sticker on the bumper has been on the car since its original purchase in 1966. The prior owner bought the car in Ann Arbor, Michigan. Overseas Imported Cars was one of very few dealerships selling Rootes vehicles in Michigan. I had considered removing it but don't have the heart to, as it is part of the car's history.

 

[DanR]

Thanks much for the tips....

 

[JJames]

I need some help. I am touching up my 1725 badges and they have no evidence of black paint on the back. I have looked at online images and it seems that some of them have black behind and some are appear to be clear showing the paint colour of the car. Which is it supposed to be?

 

[fordlandia]

All the "original" badges I have seen have black on the back, then covered with a silver (for some reason). Although others with more experience will hopefully comment, I did notice that the reproduction motifs that are sold (e.g. the "Rootes 1725" inserts) are painted black on the back.

Hope this helps!

Bill Waite
Grand Rapids, MI

 

[alpine_64]

They go clear when all the paint has worn off. The Alpines and Tigers used black (some other rootes models with 1725 used red)

If NOS they have a flash coating of the silver chrome over the black n the back.. no idea why.. given the mfg process was to flash chrome.. then paint.. then seems chrome again.