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15yrs of dust

N

norville

Donation Time
Folks,

What I notice on this car is all the new parts. It looks looks like crap from the dirt, but if you clean them they are like new... Also I assume it's not factory to have a small clean out in the front wheel wheel splash area to access the inside of the rockers?

Ok the dumb question of the day. Originally I had just planned to post up some pics to get me interested in the sunbeam, now that the weather is breaking I got the itch. I was poking around under the hood and noticed that the crank pulley is very loose??? I still have the hand crank style bolt on there. So now what do I do? It's wiggling around is there any damage? Do they come loose? I'm about to start to crank on it.

Anyway here are some pics:


bob
 

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R

RootesRacer

Donation Time
Quite likely it has the dreaded cracked keyway disease.

Remove the pulley and inspect for cracking and elongation of the keyway, plus odd wear to the key itself.

If it proves the keyway is not cracked through, them reinstall and use an impact wrench to tighten.

If the keyway is in fact cracked (I'll give you 75% odds to this), then you will need an new pulley/harmonic balance and woodruff key. If the key is shot, you should also carefully inspect the keyway in the crank, Ive seen these ruined too in which case add a crank to the list.
 
N

norville

Donation Time
OK the nut was only hand tight. I used a set of large vice grips she turned right off. I reset the washer with the tab on it. and the pulley does not wobble. I do have about a 1/4" rotational play in the pulley. that is until I start tightening the bolt.

I think I'll swap out that wonky bolt for a grade 8 piece, but should I pull the pulley because of the rotational play?



What can I say I panicked...I went back out after the I fed the kiddos...


bob
 
tony perrett

tony perrett

Gold Level Sponsor
RootesRacer is correct - suggest that you remove the pulley and check for a crack along the keyway. This is a notorious weak spot.
 
T

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
And just tightening it - even 500 foot pounds - with the world's strongest bolt, will not help. Yes, it feels solid - pushing and pulling by hand, but if it had 1/4" rotational play before tightening, you need a new pulley. Hopefully you will not need to rework or replace the crankshaft.

Tom
 
N

norville

Donation Time
I hate Lucas

Well, I thought I post up some new info. I got the balancer figured out. I started on the electrics last week and dash and carpeting. I painted the floors and started putting in some soundproofing.

The dash was next. I had it in/out 12 times. I finally got it locked down. I then started on the electrics, I didn't want to get to far on the dash only to have to pull it out again. I switched to neg ground.

At first All I had was ignition, which isn't all that bad. Then onto the lights, I re-ground the harness to the horn mounts because the clippy things did not work well. I also found out one of my headlights was out(both beams) that took a while. Parking light are working, front and rear. And I have the ignition light.....and starter

Next is to get the brake lights working and turn signals, dash lights?? I'm not sure why the brakes aren't working?? I have a good ground, I have to check for Volts but,I was getting tired so I'm taking a brake.

bob
 
T

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
One weak link in the brake lights is the switch. Alpines use a switch mounted on the hydraulic line and activated by brake pressure. Try shorting across that switch and see if the lights light up. Might be a good idea to replace the pressure actuated switch with one that is mounted near the brake pedal and actuated simply by brake pedal movement.

Tom
 
N

norville

Donation Time
I have brake light... it was the green wire. :) Yes the switch is bad, I'll have to look up under the dash to see how to fab up a new switch, I plan to to the nissan dual master anyway.

bob
 
B

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Bob, here is one way to do a mechanical switch:
IMG_0593.jpg



Installed:
IMG_0592.jpg


Bill
 
N

norville

Donation Time
Thanks Bill, That's exactly what I was thinking.

I got 1/2 my blinkers working. I think I'm low on blinker fluid.;) I'm pretty sure it's at the switch. I'll pull it apart tomorrow and burnish the contacts.

Next is the dash lights I only have the ignition on lamp lit.

bob
 
S

slippery_biscuit

Donation Time
Regarding the brake light switch, has anyone installed a hydraulic pressure activated one? Looks like a pretty simple installation and around $12 for the switch....
 
B

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
slippery_biscuit said:
Regarding the brake light switch, has anyone installed a hydraulic pressure activated one? Looks like a pretty simple installation and around $12 for the switch....
Click to expand...

Yes, many times. The problem: The hydraulic brake light switch idea is a looser. They had a high failure rate 50 (and more) years ago when installed by all mfgr's and nothing has changed in the interim. For another $14 I can send you a kit that will eliminate the problem.

Bill
 
N

norville

Donation Time
Bump for the update. Bill I made a very similar bracket thanks... I have all the light and blinkers working and even the dash lights...

My new issues:

Wiper motor seems shorted?? Where do I start? I believe I have a single speed motor just 2 wires to the motor and the ground to the chassis. I'm open to ground and shorted to the two wires.. Any thoughts?? If I need to replace the motor can I replace it with a 2 speed??

next are my blinker indicators. My blinkers work but the indicators do not neither does the highbeam indicator. the bulbs are good and so are the grounds.

One thing I an finding with this vehicle is all the contacts are ugly with goo. most systems need a good scrubbing/sanding.


That's it I believe once I get the wipers working I can get it inspected.

I will be swapping in a newer style oil filter assembly and adding a wiper spritzer unit down the road...

bob
 
B

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Bob. the wiring to the wiper motor is truly funky. There are three wires. One is hot (all the time) the other two are ground. You select the speed by selecting the appropriate ground wire. The case has to be grounded in order for the self park mechanism to work, but has nothing to do with ordinary operation.

If that is nor your problem, it is very common for the motor to develop an internal short. Can't remember exactly what happens, but it took me only a few minutes to find the problem after the case was apart.

Can't help you much with the blinkers, I used a generic aftermarket wire kit and paid no attention to the stock wiring. Just the usual LBC stuff, be sure you have a good ground at the indicator lights etc.
Bill
 
N

norville

Donation Time
I've had the motor apart. I did not see anything burned up? I tried with my jumper box hooking the neg lead to the ground(good to the case) and then the other grounded wire. All I get is spark wehn hooked up to what I believe is correct. I'll have to pull it apart again.

bob
 
B

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
The prob I had was not something burned, it was a wire that had shifted or insulation had rubbed off and was grounding. As I type this, its coming to me the stupid thing was wired so that a wire a pinched.

Bill
 
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