1592 Oil Pump needed

[epeberly]

I inherited a 65 Series IV Alpine. It had been sitting for a while, and in the process of breaking the engine loose we discovered that some teeth were worn off the Oil pinion drive.

I need a new pinion which has 12 teeth. Most that I find online have 11, I guess they are for the 1725 engine.

Since I can't find the pinion by itself, I am looking for the complete Oil pump, but the gear HAS to have 12 teeth, otherwise my rotor spins too fast, and the engine just backfires... It took us a while to figure out that I had purchased the 11 tooth on ebay


Thanks for any assistance.

 

[RootesRacer]

I inherited a 65 Series IV Alpine. It had been sitting for a while, and in the process of breaking the engine loose we discovered that some teeth were worn off the Oil pinion drive.

I need a new pinion which has 12 teeth. Most that I find online have 11, I guess they are for the 1725 engine.

Since I can't find the pinion by itself, I am looking for the complete Oil pump, but the gear HAS to have 12 teeth, otherwise my rotor spins too fast, and the engine just backfires... It took us a while to figure out that I had purchased the 11 tooth on ebay


Thanks for any assistance.

Oh man, I hate to tell you this but if you EVEN turned the engine with a 1725 pump gear in a 1592, you have very likley damaged the cam gear and you really ought to replace that now too.

The tooth profiles are different and it will put the teeth under a great deal of stress often resulting in future failure.

 

[mototron]

Best thing to do ,replace your cam and oil pump with one from a 1725
you just have to modify the the metal oil line to the pump from the block
Its a good idea to blue print the pump ,they can have very sloppy tolerances
even when new

Rocco

 

[Alpine James]

I have a 12 teeth shaft in a 1492 cc engine if that works.
James

 

[kwhite]

S !4 Pump and Drive Gear and Cam

I have extra spares of everything in excellent condition. May want to rebuild/inspect clearance on pump while it is out.

I have made every mistake in the book on these 3 times. With patience and a beer or two it is now a strong running car that I drive almost daily, even though I have the drive 90 degrees out! I do it every time, ask Al Mason.

lLet me know if I can help with spares.

Kevin

 

[epeberly]

Cam shaft replacement

Oh man, I hate to tell you this but if you EVEN turned the engine with a 1725 pump gear in a 1592, you have very likley damaged the cam gear and you really ought to replace that now too.

The tooth profiles are different and it will put the teeth under a great deal of stress often resulting in future failure.

Thank you for the heads up, I am new at this

I am somewhat mechanically inclined, but by no means any sort of engine expert. Is replacing the cam shaft something I could do with some online guidance, or do I need to hire a real mechanic for this job?


Thanks
Eric

 

[kwhite]

Attached please find images I refereed to:

 

[RootesRacer]

Thank you for the heads up, I am new at this

I am somewhat mechanically inclined, but by no means any sort of engine expert. Is replacing the cam shaft something I could do with some online guidance, or do I need to hire a real mechanic for this job?


Thanks
Eric

I dont think its a big deal, Ive done it a few times.

You will have to pull the radiator and remove the motor mount bolts so you can lift the engine with a jack (so you can slide the cam through the grill opening).

You will need a new gasket obviously and some sort of sealant.

If your chain tensioner rubbing block is in at least fair shape, do not replace it since the replacements tend to swell and cause more problems than they solve.


HTH

 

[epeberly]

Camshaft replacement

I dont think its a big deal, Ive done it a few times.

You will have to pull the radiator and remove the motor mount bolts so you can lift the engine with a jack (so you can slide the cam through the grill opening).

You will need a new gasket obviously and some sort of sealant.

If your chain tensioner rubbing block is in at least fair shape, do not replace it since the replacements tend to swell and cause more problems than they solve.


HTH

I am about to show my lack of knowledge on the topic...

Do I need to remove the valve cover and valves, or can the camshaft be inserted with them in place??

Thanks
Eric

 

[RootesRacer]

I am about to show my lack of knowledge on the topic...

Do I need to remove the valve cover and valves, or can the camshaft be inserted with them in place??

Thanks
Eric

Good question.

You will need to remove the valve cover and pull the pushrods and followers or the followers will fall into the cam cavity.
Mark the pushrods and followers so you can return them to their respective locations since they are broken in in that position.

Would be a good idea to get some cam break in lube to help the worn followers break in to the new (to it) cam you will install.
Go easy on the motor for a few hours like you would an engine breaking in a new cam.

 

[epeberly]

Next Step... Carb troubles

I wanted to give thanks to all of you who contributed to my success.

I finally got around to changing out my Cam and Oil Pump. I was a bit worried about it, but it went fairly smoothly

The car turns over, and runs for several seconds on ether. I cleaned the old nasty gas out, and put nice new gas in, and it runs a short time on gas now, but the carburetor is spewing out gas from the pump cover.

So my next problem is trying to either fix it, or replace it. It has the original Solex B32 PAIA-2 carb.

Any suggestions or spare parts would be appreciated.

 

[mikephillips]

The Solex carb wqsn't great new and hasn't improved with age. They have a reputation for premature wear and aging, although it may still run. Best bet is to replace it with the downdraft Weber you'll find mentioned in a number of posts if you do a search. You already have the correct intake and linkage so you can ignore the talk about finding/buying other ones and concentrate just on the carb.

 

[epeberly]

Thank you for the suggestion. Unfortunately, I am not familiar with carburetors. I see a several different Weber carburetors mentioned in the forum. Are you referring to the 34ICH, 34ICT, 32/36, or another one that I missed?

I have no clue what any of that means, if you could give me just another small push in the right direction I would really appreciate it. I don't want to waste time researching the wrong one if you know it off the top of your head. I don't want to waste your time either, so if you don't know don't spend time on it. I think the 32/36 maybe the one, but having a second opinion would give me more confidence.

Also, I keep seeing Zenith instead of Solex. Are they one in the same?


Thanks
Eric

 

[George Coleman]

The 32/36 Weber two barrel is the way to go, Rick has them at SS.

 

[ralphy75]

Hi,

I have a similar problem on my series 2:

-I used a brand new 5 bearing engine (with oil dip stick in block), but not sure if 1725 or 1592cc.
-Placed a new camshaft.
-Put new pinion on oil pump.
-When starting the engine (100 times almost and changing almost everything) it didn't start at all.
-Dizzy was moving in all directions although mounting tight.
-Suddenly I noticed the dizzy rotor ended up 1 hour further than where it started.
-Oil pump pinion has 11 teeth.

-Can I be sure the camshaft has 12 teeth? (I can't count it via the dizzy opening.
-What to do with the camshaft? Replace?
-Or leave the camshaft and replace the pinion with a 12 teeth one?

Thnx for advise!