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2.8 stock Ignition Components

M

Mike Armstrong

Bronze Level Sponsor
M

Mike Armstrong

Bronze Level Sponsor
gordonra said:
Hi Mike,

I believe this is the module you need:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Ignition-Control-Module/1985-Ford-Ranger-2WD/_/N-ijpt9Z9n80t?itemIdentifier=118646_967354_0_
Click to expand...

Thanks Rich. That looks to be the TFI Module that is attached to the distributor housing. But in the diagram it shows a separate second module, the Powertrain Control Module (EEC IV Module) that the TFI is wired to. Thats the one shown in the O'Reilly link and that the Autozone Fig.1 shows. Fig 2 of the Autozone link shows the separate TFI Module that is attached to the distributor housing that you linked to.
 
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bulldurham

bulldurham

Platinum Level Sponsor
Mike, somewhere in my parts boxes I have the Wells EEC you need. I do not know if it is operable but maybe I can get you a part #.
 
P

pcmenten

Donation Time
Interesting. I had an 86 Mustang 5.0 and it had the EEC IV system. The TFI failed at one point. Other than that one failure, I thought the system was excellent.

I know that around 1995, they moved the TFI to the firewall. I wonder what it would take to do the same for a 2.8

And I'll be very curious to hear how that runs. I have already invested in a Duraspark setup, but that is something to think about for the future. Are you running EFI?

Paul
 
M

Mike Armstrong

Bronze Level Sponsor
pcmenten said:
Interesting. I had an 86 Mustang 5.0 and it had the EEC IV system. The TFI failed at one point. Other than that one failure, I thought the system was excellent.

I know that around 1995, they moved the TFI to the firewall. I wonder what it would take to do the same for a 2.8

And I'll be very curious to hear how that runs. I have already invested in a Duraspark setup, but that is something to think about for the future. Are you running EFI?

Paul
Click to expand...

Hi Paul. No EFI, just the stock 2-barrel. When i was referring to heat failure of the ignition components I know that the TFI was a prime candidate for it and thats why they move over to the firewall.
 
260Alpine

260Alpine

Silver Level Sponsor
The HEI works good with the Mustang II Duraspark distributor that can be found at any parts store.
 
Cactusmasher

Cactusmasher

Donation Time
Being a dyed in the wool Ford guy and owning a number of Ford products with the ECU boxes ( Electrical Control Unit ), I finally learned to carry an extra ECU box in the car. Yes, they are heat sensitive and they do shut down. Normally if one is getting ready to go south it will shut off the entire car at the worst possible moment. If you are able to pull over to the side of the road and let it cool down for 20 or 30 minutes, it will start up and run just fine until it gets overheated again and refuses to operate even when cooled down. The engine compartment of a V6 powered Alpine is not the place for your ECU. I mounted one on the firewall inside the engine compartment in my first conversion and it died after a couple of years use. Same scenario as above. Problem cured by moving the box inside the passenger compartment. My current V6 Alpine conversion has the ECU mounted inside a metal box hanging under the dash and should be happy there. Will be carrying a spare ECU just in case.
 
260Alpine

260Alpine

Silver Level Sponsor
Yes, the vacuum advance Mustang II Duraspark. Replace the Ford Electronic Ignition box with the more reliable 75-80 GM HEI 4 pin module mounted externally on a aluminum plate with heat sink paste. Wire as in link. Fool proof and no computer necessary. For the newer Ranger locked distributor(advanced by computer) You can use the 8 pin Delco Marine HEI module with built in advance, only needs 4 wires hooked up and you can still run without the computer.

http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?6,47121
 
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M

Mike Armstrong

Bronze Level Sponsor
260Alpine said:
Yes, the vacuum advance Mustang II Duraspark. Replace the Ford Electronic Ignition box with the more reliable 75-80 GM HEI 4 pin module mounted externally on a aluminum plate with heat sink paste. Wire as in link. Fool proof and no computer necessary. For the newer Ranger locked distributor(advanced by computer) You can use the 8 pin Delco Marine HEI module with built in advance, only needs 4 wires hooked up and you can still run without the computer.

http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?6,47121
Click to expand...

Thanks Jim.

"For the newer Ranger locked distributor(advanced by computer)" Is that the one I currently have with the TFI attached to it?
 
260Alpine

260Alpine

Silver Level Sponsor
TFI won't work (Hall effect instead of magnetic )but there is a thread on converting to Mopar magnetic breaker. You would need a late 70 slant six junkyard distributor to make a hybrid. Personally, much easier to go to the auto parts store and buy the Mustang II distributor and GM 4 pin HEI module. I would also go to the earlier non computer controlled carburetor or off the shelf 350 Holley 2 barrel.
 
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M

Mike Armstrong

Bronze Level Sponsor
Thanks Jim, I appreciate your help.

One of the selling points of the 2.8 when I bought it was that among other components the carburetor was new and it was one of the few clean components on the engine :0 That and a perfectly good looking cleaned up distributor makes me not want to spend money on replacing and getting rid of either one of them. But reading through threads in a Search I'm getting the impression that keeping the poorly designed TFI clad dizzy is just asking for problems down the line. I only want a decent running stock 2.8. In the future if I ever suped up the engine I wouldn't hesitate to spend the money on high performance ignition and carburation.

Looks as though the alternate vacuum advance MII dizzy and DuraSpark II ignition components would be the smarter way to go. I assume that would mean replacing the carb too for either the non-computer controlled 2150 or a Holley 2-barrel, as you have.

Which Holley are you using?
 
M

Mike Armstrong

Bronze Level Sponsor
Thanks Jim, I appreciate your help.

One of the selling points of the 2.8 when I bought it was that among other components the carburetor was new and it was one of the few clean components on the engine :0 That and a perfectly good looking cleaned up distributor makes me not want to spend money on replacing and getting rid of either one of them. But reading through threads in a Search I'm getting the impression that keeping the poorly designed TFI clad dizzy is just asking for problems down the line. I only want a decent running stock 2.8. In the future if I ever suped up the engine I wouldn't hesitate to spend the money on high performance ignition and carburation.

Looks as though the alternate vacuum advance MII dizzy and DuraSpark II ignition components would be the smarter way to go. I assume that would mean replacing the carb too for either the non-computer controlled 2150 or a Holley 2-barrel, as you have.

Which Holley are you using?
 
260Alpine

260Alpine

Silver Level Sponsor
Mike, I don't have a 2.8 at this time, but my kid had a 2.8 Ranger that had carb and ignition issues. We used the Mustang II Duraspark and an off the shelf Holley 350cfm 2 barrel, He put headers on the truck and we installed a Racer Brown cam. The float level was set just below the threads and the idle mixture 2 turns out. Fired right up and after warmed up, tweaked the idle mixture a little for smoothest idle. Ran good for 5 years after that and he traded it in on a Eclipse.
The Mustang II 2150 would be jetted right for the stock motor. The auto parts store might take the Ranger carb for a core, probably the distributor also. It would be worth the cost for simplicity and dependability. Rockauto lists the carb at $170+30 core and distributor $60+30 core.
 
Last edited:
M

Mike Armstrong

Bronze Level Sponsor
260Alpine said:
Mike, I don't have a 2.8 at this time, but my kid had a 2.8 Ranger that had carb and ignition issues. We used the Mustang II Duraspark and an off the shelf Holley 350cfm 2 barrel, He put headers on the truck and we installed a Racer Brown cam. The float level was set just below the threads and the idle mixture 2 turns out. Fired right up and after warmed up, tweaked the idle mixture a little for smoothest idle. Ran good for 5 years after that and he traded it in on a Eclipse.
The Mustang II 2150 would be jetted right for the stock motor. The auto parts store might take the Ranger carb for a core, probably the distributor also. It would be worth the cost for simplicity and dependability. Rockauto lists the carb at $170+30 core and distributor $60+30 core.
Click to expand...

Thank you Jim.
 
G

Gitnrusty

Donation Time
Mike, A couple of years ago when I first became interested in going down this road I found good information on mix and match ignition and carburetor but I cant find the links now.I think it was on "the ranger station" or "carbed ford" sites. Maybe listed as EGR modifying.
Not much help without links to but it might be worth some browsing.
 
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