• Welcome to the new SAOCA website. Already a member? Simply click Log In/Sign Up up and to the right and use your same username and password from the old site. If you've forgotten your password, please send an email to membership@sunbeamalpine.org for assistance.

    If you're new here, click Log In/Sign Up and enter your information. We'll approve your account as quickly as possible, typically in about 24 hours. If it takes longer, you were probably caught in our spam/scam filter.

    Enjoy.

What should I look for; Buying an alpine from a co-worker?

the ghoul

Donation Time
you guys arnt kidding when you talked money....
just put in an order for $1100, and that was just the carb, brake, clutch rebuild stuff, top, wire harness, and drivers headlight repair panel....
we will see how it plays out, ill keep you all up to date from time to time.
 

the ghoul

Donation Time
yep its a 3!!
b8201430

heres a pic of how it sat for about 15 years
8-17-08001.jpg


after we got it in the day light
8-17-08005.jpg

8-17-08007.jpg

8-17-08010.jpg
 

the ghoul

Donation Time
God bless you. You're a saint.

I gotta say, im nothing special, I think any one would do the same. I mentioned that I got a 'good deal' on the car... what I didnt mention is that the owner told me 'as long as you get her back on the road, and you dont stuff a v8 into her you can have the car. Just use the money you were going to give me for the car to buy parts with'

that coupled with the fact that its so rare..... How could i turn this down?

*update* just put in another big order, I figgured it was silly to take the dash out to replace the wireing just to put the old cracked up dash pad back in, so the dash pad and some convertible top seals are on the way!!

here is the plan in stages.
stage 1
- replace wireing
- clean and re-assemble dash cluster
- pull drive train
- rebuild carbs
- flush all lines
- replace seals
- rebuild every thing in the brake and clutch system
- take the time to strip, repair and paint engine compartment
- do enought sheet metal work to the floor to make it solid (not replacing pans yet)
- get the thing running
- get the thing moving
- get it road worthy (non stock driviablitly mods preformed, nothing that isnt reversable)
- replace top and leaking seals
- bolt in good seats
stage 2
- fix exterior rust (patch panels ect)
- prime and paint it
- replace remaining old seals
- start collecting and installing missing parts little by little
stage 3
- enjoy and maintain the car as long as possible
stage 4 (years down the road when i have the time/money/space to do it right)
- full shell up restoration (replace all rotted bad metal, do all body work ect) rebuild it as stock.
 

Series3Scott

Co-Founder/Past President
Platinum Level Sponsor
I applaud your efforts and am delighted to see another Series 3 saved for the road.

But, please make sure this car is actually safe to drive. The rockers are integral to the structure of the car - are they solid? How do the rear spring mounting points look? In what condition is the X frame underneath the car?
If all of the above is as rusty as that lower fender I'd be concerned about safety first.

Don't mean to dampen your enthusiasm, but check these areas out with a flashlight and awl and determine the extent of the cancer.
 

the ghoul

Donation Time
yep checked it over.
the spring mounts are fine,
the x brace is good and the inner rockers are solid.
odd thing though, the joint between the x and inner rockers is rotted in a few spots. those will be re-inforced and re-welded before it gets any where close to the road.
as half cocked and as modivated as i seem I am still trying to remain very level headed as I can on this project. I am not taking any chances with A) the car and B) my life!!
thanks for the check though.
I like the fact that youd step up and tell me something I wouldnt want to hear , but need to for my well being..
thanks
I applaud your efforts and am delighted to see another Series 3 saved for the road.

But, please make sure this car is actually safe to drive. The rockers are integral to the structure of the car - are they solid? How do the rear spring mounting points look? In what condition is the X frame underneath the car?
If all of the above is as rusty as that lower fender I'd be concerned about safety first.

Don't mean to dampen your enthusiasm, but check these areas out with a flashlight and awl and determine the extent of the cancer.
 

the ghoul

Donation Time
If i had better access to the truck and trailer I used to bring it home I would. Im hoping to take my 63 triumph chopper that Ive been working on though.
heres a few pics of it how it looked when I pulled it out of my uncles barn. It still looks about the same minus the bird crap.
if you see me roll in feel free to say hi.
8-13-08001.jpg

8-13-08002.jpg

8-13-08004.jpg

8-13-08005.jpg

If you are able to bring this car to the Sunbeam Invasion we would be interested in seeing it.
 

mikephillips

Donation Time
Rust between the X frame and the inner rockers seems to be fairly typical, as long as it's repaired it shouldn't be a problem.
 

the ghoul

Donation Time
yeah I thought so.... its just mosture traps all in that area, i can see how it would rust easily.
My plan there is to buy some sheet steel of the correct thickness, cut patches that will fit into the existing ends of the x frame to replace the rotted metal and weld it in. I know it wont look correct but it will be enough to hold the car together, and wont damage the existing. Like I said before I dont want to sink a bunch of money into the floors right away, just enough to make it safe for now, then I will go nuts with all of that when I fully restore it down the road.
Rust between the X frame and the inner rockers seems to be fairly typical, as long as it's repaired it shouldn't be a problem.
 

howard

Donation Time
If your dash pad was anything like mine, putting the old back in wasn't an option, as it was glued. By removing it, I destroyed it.

Where'd you get your new dash pad from?
 

the ghoul

Donation Time
Ive been ordering all my stuff through www.classicsunbeam.com so far.
They seem to have a little bit of every thing and at better prices than britishvictoria... however they dont nearly have the sheet metal selection as britishvictoria, so I think I will have to go through them for the front fender patches and floor metal eventually.
If your dash pad was anything like mine, putting the old back in wasn't an option, as it was glued. By removing it, I destroyed it.

Where'd you get your new dash pad from?
 

mikephillips

Donation Time
It should be pointed out that the VB floors are not the exact original pattern and don't exactly fit. They can be used but it takes some work.
 

the ghoul

Donation Time
It should be pointed out that the VB floors are not the exact original pattern and don't exactly fit. They can be used but it takes some work.

cool thanks for giving me the heads up. they gotta be better than trying to piece them together from flat metal right? LOL
is there another company thats better for them?
I would much rather pay a bit extra to get ones that drop right in, but i have no objection to making a set work, if need be.
 
Top