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V6 conversion clutch linkage

Jim E

Jim E

Donation Time
Used a piece of angle welded a nut to it then welded it to the clutch arm. [Warning the jute is like gun powder and burns very quick!] Installed a bolt with a stop nut on it then adjusted the bolt until the car would roll with the clutch fully depressed. I also installed a return spring on the release arm but think this is not needed and makes the clutch some what stiff.

Not a great picture.
 

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Chuck Ingram

Donation Time
Jim E said:
Used a piece of angle welded a nut to it then welded it to the clutch arm. [Warning the jute is like gun powder and burns very quick!] Installed a bolt with a stop nut on it then adjusted the bolt until the car would roll with the clutch fully depressed. I also installed a return spring on the release arm but think this is not needed and makes the clutch some what stiff.

Not a great picture.
Click to expand...

Jim
It is just that simple.
I never needed a stop.
I never had a problem but I was using the Neal's slave cylinder from the start.Lots of adjustment.Being able to adjust from the top made it so easy.
Of course I was using a cable at that time on the 62 as it was my first one.
On the Lister and now V8 62 I am using solid connections and still do not use a stop.There is no problem
This is not to say a stop is not a good idea.I think for all it is one extra piece of security.This is in light of the few who have had a problem.
How's your weather?
damn cold here and at this time its like 16 below 0 F
Thank goodness for a heated garage and an insulated wooden floor.
 
britbeam

britbeam

Donation Time
My experience is much like Chucks. Ive never used a stop and I used the Neal cylinder. It does have a lot of adjustment and I havent had any problem. Now boys & girls Jose did suggest that I put a stop on the lever but I didnt so you choose which way you want to go. Joses way is the safest bet.
Dwain V6 Krazy
 
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V6 JOSE

Donation Time
Hi Chuck,

There may be several reasons you didn't encounter a problem with destroying a pressure plate and I have. The hydraulic throw out bearing I was using at the time, may have a different volume than your pull slave. Also, since you were using a 2.6 V6, did you use the Capri four speed behind it? If you did, you had a different bellhousing and clutch arm, which may have had a different ratio. Another thing that may have caused Jim problems, is he is using a different make slave cylinder and it may have a smaller bore, which would make it have more travel per movement of the master. His clutch pedal is pretty hard, which indicates to me that that is the case. You can see that there are at least a couple of variables operating here. Either way, I still suggest using one. You never know which combination you might have and it is simple and cheap to do. A lot easier by a long shot than having to remove the engine to replace the clutch pack, not to mention the extra expense.

Jim,

You really don't need a return spring on your clutch, because these throw out bearings are made to be in contact with the pressure plate fingers continually. I think your pedal pressure would be a lot lighter without it. Your clutch pedal pressure shouldn't be any heavier than it is in a Ranger.

Jose
 
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Chuck Ingram

Donation Time
Hi Jose
If you read my post I did recomend a stop seeing it is such a simple case of insuring against the problem.True I did use the Capri tranny and maybe there were a different set of variables.Saying this of course means nothing as some of the things I have done are not the same as the first time I make something.The idea may be the same but the finish may be the 1st ( I was really smart) to a 3rd or 5th attemtp before it becomes a finished piece.
Sometimes I don't even know where some of my ideas come from.
I agree with the not needing a return spring on the clutch arm..There is a spring on the MC which in all cases is sufficient coupled with the pressure in the MC.
As to Jim's case, I have not used the wildwood slave and have stuck with the Neal's slave.I have only put the kit in the one I used in the 62
when it was a V6.Dwain has had no problems with his set up as well.
I don't remember the bore of the unit but I guess I could find out if I needed to do so.
Didn't mean to go on so much.
At this time I would like to wish all a very Peaceful Christmas and may the roads in life be smooth for the coming year
 
Jim E

Jim E

Donation Time
Was thinking all the pull slaves are just about the same bore. I have tried a 5/8 and a 3/4 bore master cylinder on my clutch and there is not a heck of a lot of difference in how the pedal feels. Actually not sure you can tell any difference. Right now I have one of the 5/8 NABCO master cylinders on the clutch. [By the way these are nice cheap units that fit well,clutch or brake, for anyone who has not seen a NABCO thread before] I should pop the return spring off to see how it feels, guess I am just use to it and it seems normal. Also not sure my clutch will feel like a stock ranger being the pressure plate was rework by RAM and the disc is a full metallic button piece. I do know I destroyed a stock MII clutch, the disc spit the lining and the pressure plate fingers were all out of whack. Of course this happened when I was over 100 miles from home... worked on it for a while trying to figure out why the clutch would not release, bleed the thing tinkered and cussed for a couple hours .. just long enought for it to get dark and start raining... a wonderful drive home, no clutch and no top, put it in first hit the starter, everytime I had to stop... anyway I would put a stop on if you do not have one.

Chuck it is so warm here the bullfrog who lives in my KOA pond is singing this morning.
 
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V6 JOSE

Donation Time
Hi Chuck,

I read your post and wasn't trying to convince you that a stop was necessary. I was just trying to think why one set up will destroy the pressure plate and another won't. Since the diaphragm clutch doesn't need much travel in order to release, it might be a good idea to look for a combination that has the smallest bore master, with the largest bore slave cylinder. With this combination, you'd have a softer pedal and you'd run less of a risk of damaging the pressure plate. I would still suggest using a pedal stop for safety.

Hi jim,

I thought that you'd said that the Ram folks had said that your new pressure plate had the same clamping force as a Ranger pressure plate. Either way, the combination I mentioned would make it softer to operate.

When I first got my first Alpine running, I used a cable set up from a Vega, (May God forgive me), and I couldn't use my leg to release the clutch. I had to use my ankle and at first it was a bit hard, but after a while, I didn't even notice it. When I would let someone new to the Alpine drive it, they would comment on how hard it was to drive, because it not only felt hard, but it was like an on off switch. I was glad when I made the switch to a hydraulic throw out bearing. The hydraulic pull slave cylinder is even a much better method.

Jose :)
 
Jim E

Jim E

Donation Time
The ranger pressure plate has the same clamping force as the MII unit, stock to stock, even though the ranger unit is smaller diameter. They modified a stock ranger P/P for me to use with the custom disc they made up, so I am not sure my modified P/P is the same clamping as a stock unit.
 
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V6 JOSE

Donation Time
One of the three pressure plates I blew up. was a Center force pressure plate. I used them without a pedal stop and promptly blew them up. After that, I put a pedal stop and used a stock Mustang II pressure plate and had no more problems with the clutch. The stock pressure plate and clutch worked so well, that I broke the differential in a Ford 8", by side stepping the clutch at 5K. As far as I know, it still has the same clutch in it.

Jose
 
MikeH

MikeH

Diamond Level Sponsor
Has anyone determined the distance the top of the release arm on the MII bellhousing must move to release the clutch enough to be effective?
 
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