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V6 conversion clutch linkage
- Thread starter lgurley
- Start date
Hi Larry,
We are using a hydraulic pull type slave cylinder and there should be a mounting bracket in your kit. You will need to source your own cylinder, but it should be a snap to connect it. If you don't have one, send me an e-mail and I will see to it that you get one. You can use your stock Alpine master cylinder to operate it.
Jose
We are using a hydraulic pull type slave cylinder and there should be a mounting bracket in your kit. You will need to source your own cylinder, but it should be a snap to connect it. If you don't have one, send me an e-mail and I will see to it that you get one. You can use your stock Alpine master cylinder to operate it.
Jose
britbeam
Donation Time
The hydraulic clutch is the way to go and the bracket is available for you. I made the first one and it was improved on by JimE. This whole V6 thing has gone through some nice upgrades like using the 3.8 V6 tranny ect. I know Jose has seen it come a long way so the clutch is not something of a problem.
Get those V6 Alpines together. Good to see the kits arriving
Dwain V6 Krazy
britbeam
Donation Time
I missed something. What's the advantage of the 3.8 T5 vs the 5.0?
Two things I think of are the availability, they havent been thrashed to death and with a little machne work the pilot bearing adapter doesnt have to be used which saves a few dollars. Not sure but it may be a different gear ratio also.Jose can clearify better than I can.
Dwain V6 Krazy
Hi Nick,
The 1996 and later 3.8 V6 T5 has the very best selection of gears for the V6 conversion. The overdrive isn't as tall as the 5.0 V8 T5 and the gears are all a little lower. Having said that, if you have a good 5.0 T5, I wouldn't go looking for the one from the 3.8 V6. You would probably lose money selling your V8 T5 and then you'd have to find the V6 one. You would save a bit on not having to buy a pilot bearing adapter, but I don't know if it would be worth it.
If you keep your 5.0 T5, I would suggest using the very lowest gear ratio in the rear end you can get, so that you can get the best performance from your V6 Alpine. The little 2.8 doesn't like a tall gear. It loves to live at 3K and above.
Jose
The 1996 and later 3.8 V6 T5 has the very best selection of gears for the V6 conversion. The overdrive isn't as tall as the 5.0 V8 T5 and the gears are all a little lower. Having said that, if you have a good 5.0 T5, I wouldn't go looking for the one from the 3.8 V6. You would probably lose money selling your V8 T5 and then you'd have to find the V6 one. You would save a bit on not having to buy a pilot bearing adapter, but I don't know if it would be worth it.
If you keep your 5.0 T5, I would suggest using the very lowest gear ratio in the rear end you can get, so that you can get the best performance from your V6 Alpine. The little 2.8 doesn't like a tall gear. It loves to live at 3K and above.
Jose
Jim E
Donation Time
Pull slave
Here is a picture of the bracket and pull slave mounted on the engine/trans. There are several different make pull slaves out there but they are all pretty much the same thing. The Wilwood unit seems to work fine and is about 50 bucks, by the way they are a snap to rebuild if you were ever to need to one common O ring in them as I recall. Notice the bleeder is on top and the feed is on the bottom, you may have to swap the bleeder and connection port hole to hole on yours to get it this way. I did and the unit still functioned fine. I got my clevis out of the junk box, not sure what it is off but maybe an Alfa injected car maybe not. I have made them up for other stuff, used flat stock a nut and welder. You do need to watch placement of the pull slave, things are pretty tight in this area and it is posible to place it where the steering can touch it or the bolt that holds it to the bracket. So a short bolt is in order and you may need to change the lengths of your threaded rodto move the body of the slave out of the way. Also note you have to grind part of the bellhousing off where the old cable pull went. I also welded a bushing in the clutch release arm. The hole in the arm and he hole in my clevis were different sizes, clevis took a smaller bolt and the result would have been slop. So I found a allen head cap screw that the head fit the arm hole, cut the head off the bolt and welded it in the hole. Then drilled it to the same size as the hole in my clevis. Another area of slop is inside the bellhousing. To check this grab the arm the throw out rides in and the arm that the slave attaches to and see if they will move independant of one another. This thing is bolted together inside the bell and tends to get slop at the place where they attach to each other the bolt holes get egged. I just drilled them to the next size up and put new bolts in. I may not have explained this well but if you look at it it will be clear. Now whether or not you need to do this I am not sure, on both fronts the clevis and the release arm, it may work just fine with teh slop in it. I just figure the slop starts to stack up on you and could be an issue. Plus if it is an issue you find out once the car is assembled and fixing it means pullin the motor.
What else....oh make sure you have the right threads on your rods that screw in the pull slave. Been a while but seems like they were metric or maybe what I had was metric and the threads are SAE. You just want to be sure because the slave body is alloy and you could strip it out very easy. Oh and notice the black dot on the bellhousing. That mark is where the throw out touches the pressure plate and I used it as a reference while making up the over all length of the pull slave and rods and also used it for adjusting the over all length.
Here is a picture of the bracket and pull slave mounted on the engine/trans. There are several different make pull slaves out there but they are all pretty much the same thing. The Wilwood unit seems to work fine and is about 50 bucks, by the way they are a snap to rebuild if you were ever to need to one common O ring in them as I recall. Notice the bleeder is on top and the feed is on the bottom, you may have to swap the bleeder and connection port hole to hole on yours to get it this way. I did and the unit still functioned fine. I got my clevis out of the junk box, not sure what it is off but maybe an Alfa injected car maybe not. I have made them up for other stuff, used flat stock a nut and welder. You do need to watch placement of the pull slave, things are pretty tight in this area and it is posible to place it where the steering can touch it or the bolt that holds it to the bracket. So a short bolt is in order and you may need to change the lengths of your threaded rodto move the body of the slave out of the way. Also note you have to grind part of the bellhousing off where the old cable pull went. I also welded a bushing in the clutch release arm. The hole in the arm and he hole in my clevis were different sizes, clevis took a smaller bolt and the result would have been slop. So I found a allen head cap screw that the head fit the arm hole, cut the head off the bolt and welded it in the hole. Then drilled it to the same size as the hole in my clevis. Another area of slop is inside the bellhousing. To check this grab the arm the throw out rides in and the arm that the slave attaches to and see if they will move independant of one another. This thing is bolted together inside the bell and tends to get slop at the place where they attach to each other the bolt holes get egged. I just drilled them to the next size up and put new bolts in. I may not have explained this well but if you look at it it will be clear. Now whether or not you need to do this I am not sure, on both fronts the clevis and the release arm, it may work just fine with teh slop in it. I just figure the slop starts to stack up on you and could be an issue. Plus if it is an issue you find out once the car is assembled and fixing it means pullin the motor.
What else....oh make sure you have the right threads on your rods that screw in the pull slave. Been a while but seems like they were metric or maybe what I had was metric and the threads are SAE. You just want to be sure because the slave body is alloy and you could strip it out very easy. Oh and notice the black dot on the bellhousing. That mark is where the throw out touches the pressure plate and I used it as a reference while making up the over all length of the pull slave and rods and also used it for adjusting the over all length.
Attachments
bulldurham
Platinum Level Sponsor
pull slave
Jim, about how much travel is there in the arm and did you have to shorten the tube the throwout bearing rides on?
Thanks for your tips.
Doug
Jim, about how much travel is there in the arm and did you have to shorten the tube the throwout bearing rides on?
Thanks for your tips.
Doug
Jim E
Donation Time
Well I did not have to shorten the tube the throw out rides on because I used one from my 5.0 T5 on my 3.8 t5. But if you use the 3.8 tube you got to chop some off the end cause it is too long. But if you have the typical stock alloy tube gizmo it is gauled and has to be replaced anyway so I would just get one for a 5.0 T5 and it is the right length. The replaement tubes [think they are called bearing retainers] are steel.
bulldurham
Platinum Level Sponsor
clutch slave
Jim, you are right, it is the bearing retainer and I have read that the steel one is recommended, so I think that is what I will do as it is the correct length. The last thing I want to do is have to pull the engine because of such a problem.
Thanks
Jim, you are right, it is the bearing retainer and I have read that the steel one is recommended, so I think that is what I will do as it is the correct length. The last thing I want to do is have to pull the engine because of such a problem.
Thanks
Hi Doug,
There is enough travel with the slave cylinder; so much so, that if you don't use a pedal stop, you will over travel the fingers on the pressure plate and ruin it, and the disc. The diaphragm type pressure plate doesn't need much travel to make it release.
THIS IS VERY IMPROTANT!
Don't think you can get away with it just because it didn't blow up the frist time you drove it. Don't put it off till later either, because you will begin doing damage from the first time you use it. I know I sound like I am preaching, but replacing the pressure plate in a V6 Alpine, is a BIG pain in the butt. You will need to remove the engine and transmission to do it. After removing the engine and transmission several dozen times (exageration to make a point) during the conversion process, you won't want to do it again for a looooong time.
Jose
There is enough travel with the slave cylinder; so much so, that if you don't use a pedal stop, you will over travel the fingers on the pressure plate and ruin it, and the disc. The diaphragm type pressure plate doesn't need much travel to make it release.
THIS IS VERY IMPROTANT!
Don't think you can get away with it just because it didn't blow up the frist time you drove it. Don't put it off till later either, because you will begin doing damage from the first time you use it. I know I sound like I am preaching, but replacing the pressure plate in a V6 Alpine, is a BIG pain in the butt. You will need to remove the engine and transmission to do it. After removing the engine and transmission several dozen times (exageration to make a point) during the conversion process, you won't want to do it again for a looooong time.
Jose
bulldurham
Platinum Level Sponsor
clutch
Any tips on setting up the c/pedal stop?
Any tips on setting up the c/pedal stop?