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Enjoy.
Daylight Savings or regular time? Could also be based on when you're in the car. I always depend on the watch on my left wrist.The problem is determining WHEN they are right.
That is what I did, although I don't remember who originally recommended it. I wired a 1 amp fuse across the cut-off switch. It worked perfectly and blew immediately if I turned the key with the switch off, but kept the clock and the car radio memory working even though the battery was otherwise cut-off. The only problem was that I would frequently forget and turn the key, blowing the fuse. I bought about 100 of them on eBay for less $10, so that wasn't an issue, but it was a pain in the butt to be constantly replacing them. Mike Enk, the Jaguar Clock Guy, later sent me a thermal fuse (I am sure one of the EE's on the group will know what I am talking about because I sure don't) that I wired across the cut-off terminals. That works perfectly and keeps me from having to constantly replace the fuse. That said, turning the key without throwing the cut-off switch - something I do regularly at my advance age and minimal memory - wipes the radio memory, which is still a pain. If I had it to do all over, I would probably just run a dedicated fused line to the clock and radio memory circuit and not worry about it from there.I think I recall this discussion from long ago about clock power and a battery cutoff switch and put the fuse holder in the arm rest. I think someone suggested mounting a small wire with a very small amperage inline fuse in parallel to the cut off switch. This would continue supplying power to radios and clocks with the battery switched off. The small amperage fuse would blow very quickly if a situation drawing more than residual power requirements occurred. I don't recall any real feedback or discussion on the suggestion. I can envision a couple of possible issues but not sure they are major problems. Number one would be operator error and then the resistance in the disconnect causing too much current to try to flow through the bypass when starting.
sent me a thermal fuse (I am sure one of the EE's on the group will know what I am talking about because I sure don't) that I wired across the cut-off terminals.
Bill, I sure like the finish you put on them! Crinkley Black
I still have some of the valve covers from the last group buy we made....
Jerry, They are from John Redmond JRCAST.com.
I have them as spares for my Conversion projects.
I have a total of $269 invested. If interested that is the selling price plus shipping from me Greenwood, SC 29649 to you.
Best I recall in some shipments from me to NY was about $16. and to Calif was maybe $30-35....
I'll have to pull them out to see exactly what I have left.
Thanks tor that tip Mike.... Merry Christmas to you! How's the injury recovery? Hope all is well.I suggest getting a copy of ‘Hemmings Motor News‘ and check advertising for chrome shops.