SV rear axle seal?

[Alpine 1789]

UPDATE

Sorry to be a pest on this, but thought I'd update my previous message. I realized after posting it that I had to pull the axle even if I was only going to replace the gasket, so I went ahead and did that. Attached are photos of the bearing, which is one of the later types. It looks fine to me (although I know I can't see the inner seal), but the outer o-ring only barely sits above the bearing itself, if at all. Unless someone tells me that it is supposed to look like that, I think I'll try replacing just that before doing anything more radical and expensive.

 

[65beam]

axle seal

that's the way they are supposed to be .just change the o ring and put it back together .check to make sure the vent on the housing is open also .

 

[Alpine 1789]

Thanks. I ordered the parts from Rick and should have them in a few days. I'll report back when I know more.

 

[Alpine 1789]

OK, with the front end nearly done, it's time to turn my attention back to the back. I put the new o-ring on the bearing, some hylomar on the gaskets, tapped the axle back into place, bolted the backing plate back on to the axle and topped off the rear axle fluid. In theory, the next step is to re-hook up the brake lines and bleed the brakes. However, I'd like to hold off on that step until I know if the o-ring was the problem or not.

It looks to me like the gear oil level is below the level of the bearings. If so, then I assume that oil gets to them by the action of the gears in the differential. That would mean that I wouldn't be able to test for leaks without driving the car, unless I simply 'tipped' the car to one side to let the oil flow to that side. Does that make sense? Can I just lower the right side and raise the left and leave it that way for a day or two and see if there is any leaking out the front? I assume the weep hole will leak, but I'd still be able to tell if the front was sealed or not. Right?

 

[todd reid]

SV Rear Axle seal

Jim,
Reading this string brings back bad memories of my first Sunbeam adventure. I failed my first Sunbeam state inspection in 1979 due to a leaking rear axle seal. I was 23 years old, had no garage, no tools, etc. I'll spare you the gory details.

What I know for sure:
1. You won't know for sure that you have solved your problem until your drive your car. The spinning gears will heat the oil and possibilty thin it, plus the spinning gears and cornering forces will sling oil around. Sitting in the garage on jack stands just isn't the same.

2. Even "new" bearings leak. How long has the part you just bought been sitting on the shelf?? I have had to replace them after 6 months. Moral of the story- if the other side of the car isn't leaking: LEAVE IT ALONE!

My Opinion:
1. I think most oil leaks come though the center of the bearing. Unless you have unlimited free time, and enjoy disassembling the rear brakes, I'm voting to put a new bearing in while you have it apart.

PS My local mechanic taught me that fluid soaked brake shoes car be reclaimed by heating them with a torch and boiling the fluid out.

 

[Nick Farrow]

Sorry to hijack this thread slightly but I've just taken my car (Series 3) to a local garage to have the rear hub oil seal replaced and they've just phoned to tell me they can't get the hub off and so won't be able to do it. Is this often the case? I'm now worried that no-one will be able to do it, which isn't good!

 

[mikephillips]

It takes a good heavy puller cranked down really tight to get the hub off, particularly if it hasn't been in 45 years. But it can be done, I've done it, and I've seen others do it. They probably just didn't have a heavy enough tool.

 

[Alpine 1789]

Just to close the loop on this thread, I replaced the o-ring and went out for a short drive (the car wasn't technically legal, since the plates had expired while I was working on it) a few nights ago. I saw no evidence of any leaking and took it back in for re-inspection today. It was about a 5-7 mile drive on the highway and I stopped a mile or so before the inspection station and check the hub to be safe. It was still clean and dry, so at least for now I am good to go. Thanks to all who contributed and helped me through the repair!