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Sunbeam Alpine Front Suspension (Coil Spring) ?

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
My 1967 Series V Alpine St has been restored in what I would call "total" with some personal touches.

For instant I installed a 1974-'78 FORD 2.8 V6 Engine, commonly referred to as a Cologne engine. It is mated to a late model Mustang T5 (1997), I have additional items installed: such as custom straighback headers ; an Air Condition system with both heat and air (therefore I removed the stock heater core and fan assembly); an Electric Power Steering is also installed.

I said all that as an explanation leading to a situation I have encountered with my Alpine. When driving on some roads whether real bumpy or minor; even roads with high center crowns and dips it seem a bit squirrely, or darty at times. With all new suspension replacement components and having the front end aligned I am stumped at the cause.

Again today it was back in the shop for an inspection. The Specialist made a few statements that I was unaware of such as the tie rods were not level (?) don't laugh, for after he explained it, it made some sense. Read on....

My Alpine sits a bit low in the front, lower than I would like, so I had asked several mechanics how to raise the front! From a spacer in between the coils to a block under the bottom, to new springs have been the answers.

I have the bushings that SS sold me, they are the hard like plastic not the rubber ones. They will squeak constantly.

Also I can raise the Alpine using a hyd floor jack (under the center of the crossmember) until both front wheels are off the floor, ease the jack pressure and allow the wheel to touch slowly until all the weight of the Alpine is back on the tires, it will sit there with approximately 1 1/2 to 2" clearance between the fender lip and the tire, until I push downward, with additional weigh then it will compress the spring height down to about 1" between the fender lip and the tire. There is basically no spring action ? It is almost as if what ever position I cause it to be in, it will stay there.

Looking for replacement springs as a possible solution, I found: http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/universal_coil_springs.asp

This site ask some questions I can answer, but some I can't.

End type: Square
Both ends: Square
Free Height: 12.5 inches
Installed: 10 inches
Inner Dia: 3 3/8 inches
Bar Dia: 1/2" ( 0.495 to 0.511)
Spring Rate Lbs per inch: (How do you determine this?)
Load in Lbs: (What does this mean?)
Spring type: (What does this mean ?)

Note: I added the Outer Dia: 4 1/2"

If any of you know the answer to the unanswered questions, I'd appreciate help.

I have several more front ends I plan to rebuild, but don't want to do any more until I get some answers.

I edited this POST to include some action I did yesterday: Based upon some recommendations to stiffen or raise the front end I installed two spacers between the coils on both sides. Took the Alpine out for a ride at varying speeds over some of the same roads I have previously traveled. There seemed to be a bit better steering and not as noticeable wandering or weaving as before. When I arrived back home I tested the raising and lowering as I had before the spacers, if I pushed down of the front it would raise itself back to the prior position with some "spring" action and likewise if I lifted the front upward, it would spring back. This is the first time I notice this "spring type action. It is a puzzle to me, but several of the Forum Members have added comments that make be believe even more that my springs are weak, leading me to ask for help in obtaining some new ones....Help! I have three more Alpines being built and I do not want to encounter this problem with them.
 

Ken Ellis

Donation Time
Well, for OEM, with a published curb weight of 2200-ish pounds, and a nominal 50/50 weight distribution, each corner is going to be 550 lbs. Some of that is going to be un-sprung weight, and geometry should lead you to the actual weight/pressure compressing the spring. That should be covered by a straightforward (proportional) lever calculation. If the snow is not too bad tomorrow, I'll go take some measurements on a free-range front-end out behind the garage.

Some of the lack of settling after jacking up may be from the wheels not being able to slide sideways when sitting back down... which is not an issue rolling down the street. Do they hang in a bit when up in the air?

There are some lever-oriented ways of measuring high trailer tongue weights with common bathroom scales and proportional lever/fulcrum arrangements. (Google up for examples.) These methods can be used to measure existing spring forces/constants with jacks, heavy things, and the spring in question. (Strap or chain spring to immobile object to control shenanigans if things slip under load.)

On edit: You'll need to add/subtract weight of your options relative to stock, but it's not likely to be an extreme difference.

I would think caster would be directly related to squirrely-ness. I know that on my E350-based motorhome, the go-to fix for wandering is to dial in 2 degrees more caster than stock. It's supposed to make a world of difference with no wear issues.

Of course, 'dialing-in' on an Alpine means custom or additional shims, not just a twist of a wrench.

I know "bump steer" is a thing, but would need to review its dynamics. I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will stop by soon and say whether that could be "a thing" in your case.
 
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DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
UPDATE: I spotted some of SC Transport Police near me and asked if they would weight my '67 SV Alpine ST with the 2.8 V6.... Surprise! They were very interested in seeing and weighting it!

I pulled into a flat, hard and level surface area and they pulled their scales out for me to drive up on!

Here are the results:

Front left: 620 Front right: 600 Total Front: 1220

Left rear: 550 Right rear: 550 Total Rear: 1100

TOTAL ALPINE WEIGHT 2.8 V6 w/T5 2320

That is without occupants are any other stuff!
 

RootesRooter

Donation Time
So you've got a few more pounds up front than before. Stock Alpines already have a tendency to dip the outside front corner in turns. The low-riding suggests your front spring(s) might be worn out, making it worse. Fresh springs, quality shocks and maybe a Tiger front sway bar would control the extra weight better.
Finally, was the steering crosstube replaced? Worn bushings there can make a huge difference in how squirrely the steering is.
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
So you've got a few more pounds up front than before. Stock Alpines already have a tendency to dip the outside front corner in turns. The low-riding suggests your front spring(s) might be worn out, making it worse. Fresh springs, quality shocks and maybe a Tiger front sway bar would control the extra weight better.
Finally, was the steering crosstube replaced? Worn bushings there can make a huge difference in how squirrely the steering is.
Rootes, I am being to think the springs need replacement with new and maybe stronger ones.

The Tiger sway bar is a good idea, thanks for that.

The crosslink is the one I make for my V6 Conversions. It has new tie rod ends.

I need to get an answer to the 2 questions I have not been able to answer.
 

Toyanvil

Gold Level Sponsor
When my car drove like that, I removed my springs and found my A arms were not moving very smooth.
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Toyanvil, What did you do to make correction?

I believe my bushing are too tight or stiff
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Here's some valuable data on the front suspension found in Alpine -The Classic Sunbeam by Chris McGovern on page 250... see PIC

20180420_121200.jpg
 

PROCRAFT

Donation Time
Dan the length springs you show for a S5 are the same length as a Tiger (free length) keep this in mind if you go to stiffer springs you'll need to reduce the free length to achieve the same installed height (laden) for example we used 450lb. front springs in one Tiger the free length was 11" the stock rate is 250lb? and a free length of 12 plus also regarding the lower A Arm bushings if you urethane or Delrin, as we did, there needs to be an inner tube that is approx.. 020 longer than the total width to allow free movement of the A Arm after everything is tightened, just a little food for thought here. and as a side note were going thru a drama here with a Ram Release bearing first there clutch was bogus and now were having release problems I'm thinking were going to a larger master to have more volume with less travel I've run this all by Wilwood and they tend to agree with the assessment also I don't know what they told you re. free play but I think its to much this is the first time I've used Rams stuff we've always used Howe and never has the problems were having should have listened to my inner voice.
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Well, for OEM, with a published curb weight of 2200-ish pounds, and a nominal 50/50 weight distribution, each corner is going to be 550 lbs.

Ken, You were not far off of the figures I received from the SC DOT
Front left: 620 Front right: 600 Total Front: 1220

Left rear: 550 Right rear: 550 Total Rear: 1100

TOTAL ALPINE WEIGHT: 2.8 V6 w/T5 + 3/4 tank of fuel is 2320

Now for some new coil springs! Anyone know where to get replacements?
 

husky drvr

Platinum Level Sponsor
If you can't find replacement springs, Eaton Detroit Spring makes custom springs. No experience so no opinion.
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Dan the length springs you show for a S5 are the same length as a Tiger (free length) keep this in mind if you go to stiffer springs you'll need to reduce the free length to achieve the same installed height (laden) for example we used 450lb. front springs in one Tiger the free length was 11" the stock rate is 250lb? and a free length of 12 plus

Thanks, Joel, for that info on the length! I sent one of my SV springs to Eaton Springs in Michigan yesterday, They are to test it for me and provide a solution.

I will keep you informed of any progress,
 

Barry

Diamond Level Sponsor
Thanks, Joel, for that info on the length! I sent one of my SV springs to Eaton Springs in Michigan yesterday, They are to test it for me and provide a solution.

I will keep you informed of any progress,



Dan,

I don't recall the details, but Tigers had stiffer springs to handle the extra weight of the SBF engine. Seems like somebody ought to have a set laying around.
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Dan,

I don't recall the details, but Tigers had stiffer springs to handle the extra weight of the SBF engine. Seems like somebody ought to have a set laying around.

Sure would be nice if there was a set to borrow! But, based upon what Procraft (Joel) said, I forwarded that info on to Eaton Michigan Spring.

I discovered today that I need to learn something about "Bump Steer".... My friend Larry was attempting to explain that to me.... I'm kind-a-slow catch'in on some times.
 

260Alpine

Silver Level Sponsor
Dan, I answered your other thread with a diagram on bump steer. My experience with shorter springs on a MGB, the lower control arms move from level to the road to pointing upwards at the wheel. The tie rods stayed straight, so the angles were all wrong and the handling is just as you describe(bump steer). The best way to lower the front end is with drop spindles. I like a little more caster than 3 degrees, more like 5 or 6. That also helps in the steering wheel self centering.
 

mark mcdonough

Donation Time
Hi Dan
I hope all is well. My search for Sunbeam front coil springs has brought me to your front door. I am wondering how the springs you sourced are working out and if you have any drive time on the car to provide feedback on if the springs improved driving characteristics of the car.

Ive managed to dial out the front end steering play I was experiencing, but with the improved steering response now comes other issues that surfaced. Experience tells me that the original front springs are probably long since served their service life. Every other moving part in the front end has been replaced. I look forward to your reply when you have a moment.

Regards, Mark
 
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