Nissan in Alpine

thickeyjr · May 23, 2011

Good progress, Bill. Can't wait to see the car all back together and running.

bashby · Jun 8, 2011

The interior is partially complete,black with blue stitching. On to weather stripping, windows and the like.

helijm · Jun 16, 2011

What an amazing progress report on all your work

You have set a new standard in following work in progress. Thanks for all the insights Bashby...The car is beautiful and sure to turn some heads when rolling...

bashby · Jun 21, 2011

Thank you, although I have not updated WebShots with photos for a while so, I have fallen behind. Have not done anything to the car in almost a month between family and work very little time. Should be driving her this week and weekend if the weather holds... hmmmm drive the Alpine or work on the Alpine...

socorob · Jun 21, 2011

Enjoy it if the weather is good. Work on it if the weather is bad. Convertible season is over here so I'm working on my 4 link until it cools down some.

helijm · Jun 21, 2011

series 2 wanted Jose v6 conversion done

Anybody know where there is a series 2 with Jose's v6 conversion done that is for sale...

britbeam · Jun 22, 2011

Not mine its with me til the end. I couldnt put a price on it.Drivem if you gottem. Im driving mine to work and this Dude in a Miata pulls along side giving a thumbs up and screaming"Thats Awesome I want one".Where can I get one and how much. How do you put a price on the winters on a cold floor in the garage,busted knuckles,burns from driping metal from a torch etc. Then if I sold it I would have to start all over on another one.One thing about the V6 conversion if you do it yourself(or any conversion) you will know that car and when you do have a issue you know what to look for to fix it. Good luck ocasionaly someone gives one up but its rare.
Dwain V6 Krazy

helijm · Jun 25, 2011

Thanks Brit Beam

Brit, do you know where I can get the v6 conversion kit That V6 Jose engineered and so many people were happy with. I also have to do some welding as the floor pans are a little rusty and have some extraneous holes everywhere. Want to get this labor of love running, I have to endure 100+ temps being in las Vegas but its worth it. Also do you know in anyone locally (surrounding states has a Rotissirere) Any info would be grateful...Helijm

gordonra · Jun 25, 2011

Jose still supplies the kits, so you can contact him directly by sending him a PM.

btw, I've done one of these kits as well and couldn't be happier with it, and the performance of the Alpine. Mine is currently a stock engine, but it's just a matter of time and dollars before it gets the higher performance upgrades.

Rich

kmathis · Jun 25, 2011

helijm said:
Brit, do you know where I can get the v6 conversion kit That V6 Jose engineered and so many people were happy with. I also have to do some welding as the floor pans are a little rusty and have some extraneous holes everywhere. Want to get this labor of love running, I have to endure 100+ temps being in las Vegas but its worth it. Also do you know in anyone locally (surrounding states has a Rotissirere) Any info would be grateful...Helijm

As Rich said; Jose is the man for the kit, it comes to you all powder coated and looking good. I had my headers ceramic coated and they look great; there is a ton of info on this conversion here on this board and any of us would be glad to help out any way we can.
I completed my conversion in April and it is nothing but fun; and it is plenty fast

bashby · Jun 27, 2011

After going out for a drive only 95F here I have found that there is enough heat in the engine compartment to make the master cylinder put the brakes on and hold the pressure. When I was driving the car at night when it was 65F out, I thought that the pedal needed a return spring...back on blocks drained the brake system, going to change the MC to a different one and make a heat shield.

MikeH · Jun 27, 2011

bashby said:
After going out for a drive only 95F here I have found that there is enough heat in the engine compartment to make the master cylinder put the brakes on and hold the pressure. When I was driving the car at night when it was 65F out, I thought that the pedal needed a return spring...back on blocks drained the brake system, going to change the MC to a different one and make a heat shield.

Wow. That would actually cause that much expansion of the fluid? You would think with the brakes off that it would force it out of the M/C.

Bill Blue · Jun 27, 2011

Bill, the fluid should just return to the reservoir. You need a better return spring or the push rod is too long, trapping fluid in the MC bore. Self applying brakes are no fun. I've been there and done that. My problem was push rod length.

Bill

bashby · Jun 27, 2011

They come on hard enough to stop the car when shifting from 1st to 2nd! and if you put the car in neutral they will stop you and hold you on a hill.
Bill, I initially thought the same thing with the long push-rod but, thy come on even if I do not apply the brakes. Initially I would always hook my foot under the brake pedal to make certain that it was up all the way but now thet do not release unless I let the MC cool down -pouring water on it really helps to speed the process up.

MikeH · Jun 27, 2011

Is there a proportioning valve in the circuit? Is it just the fronts dragging when the temps are high?

bashby · Jun 27, 2011

Yes, there is a proportioning valve in the system and I think that both the front and rears come on. BTW, it is the Nissan F10 MC with a remote Mitsubishi reservoir; with 4-wheel 4-pot Wilwood brakes. Looking at the Wilwood high volume, AP racing or Tilton Master cylinders 7/8" bore and a heat shield as I did not like the brake feel (Nissan F10 is 3/4" bore) nor the appearance of the remote reservoir.

RootesRacer · Jun 27, 2011

Bill Blue said:
Bill, the fluid should just return to the reservoir. You need a better return spring or the push rod is too long, trapping fluid in the MC bore. Self applying brakes are no fun. I've been there and done that. My problem was push rod length.

Bill

Yeah its not the MC.

Ken Ellis · Jun 27, 2011

How far away from the headers are the brake lines? Do you have an infrared thermometer to take some temp measurements at various places?

Ken

Bill Blue · Jun 27, 2011

Bill, disconnect the brake pedal from the push rod, see if that releases the brakes. When you depress the brake pedal, first thing that happens is the piston covers the return port to the reservoir so fluid can be moved into the the wheel cylinders. If the pedal does not return all the way, fluid is trapped and will engage the brakes as it heats.

You do not like the feel of the pedal with the 3/4" bore? How hard of a pedal do you want? Usually guys think the 3/4" bore gives a hard enough pedal.

The small Tilton reservoirs will fit the F10 MC. Be sure to order caps if you get them.

Bill

bashby · Jun 27, 2011

I am not with the car right now but I do know this: the brake pedal only has about 1/8" free play but when I start out driving (engine cold) the brakes work normally and the brake pedal is fully "retracted"; when the engine is at operating tejmperature and it is cooler outside the brakes work but drag a bit (pedal is still fully retracted). When it is "hot" outside and the engine is cold the brakes work normally but when it is hot outside and the engine is at operating temperature you will not get far (~10-miles) before you will come to a full stop (pedal still fully retracted) and not move until the MC cools down wheher it be by air or water cooling the MC, I do have an IR temp sensor and when I point it at the MC at reads ~170F and the exhaust manifold reads ~300F. The brake lines do not run on the crossmember but up high by the hood closure line with the clutch line. The closest brake line to the exhaust manifold is the left front and it is 6" away right before it routes through the inner fender to do to the flexline on the crossmember then onto the caliper. The brake proporting valve is on the inner fender/firewall in the corner and that is where the tee is for the front calipers. The rear tee is on the rear differential.