MGC Heater Control Valve

[Tim R]

Mike,

In simple terms the replacement valve has a known weakness. the modification detailed in the article involves fitting large washers around it and drilling through them to hold the original assembly together and prevent failure in the future. Once done it looks ok and solves the problems.

Tim R

 

[hartmandm]

Tim,

To clarify, the modification is for the internals of the valve, not the hose connection point?

Thanks,
Mike

 

[greenbean]

Guys, I did a really easy fix for my Series V years ago and it was good for 4 plus years when I sold the car, as I too had way to many failures with the reproduced look-alike later Series heater valve replacements. If you all recall what the earlier Series heater valve looks like, and we all know that it is not a direct swap on the later cars due to the operation of the push-pull set up. Well I found a heater valve that looks just like the early Series heater valve but operated on a pull-push set-up (versus the push-pull set-up of the early Series valve and we all know that the early Series reproduction vales are very reliable). The heater valve was used on a 60's Jaguar E-Type, and it worked perfect for a reliable Heater Valve on my Series V. Yes, it in no way looked stock, but sometimes you have to go-with-what-works.

 

[Alpine 1789]

Just, for what its worth, I saw this on eBay today: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUNBEAM-...644547?hash=item442121e103:g:liUAAOSw1NJbLM0Z . It looks like an alternate approach to using the MGC valve, one that doesn't look quite stock, but is probably sturdier.

 

[DanR]

Jim, Looks like a decent unit
for a replacement. Especially if you were trying to make the Alpine "appear" fairly stock....

That would be atleast £40 for a water valve.... Think I will stick with the one I found that functions very nicely in my V6 Conversions.

 

[Alpine 1789]

Yours looks like a great solution for someone who isn't going after originality. As for the MGC valves, I also read somewhere - perhaps on the SAOC Facebook page - that some guys in the UK were simply cutting off the MGC flange and heating and stretching the heater hose over it. That is probably a better solution than the glued-in adaptor that started this thread. Alternatively, I wonder if there is enough meat on the valve to cut threads. If so, Dan: maybe your guy could machine a threaded adaptor for the valve?

 

[DanR]

Jim, I just read a few days ago an article that was discussing "FAKE" new original parts being sold that are inferior.... I'll have to find it and make a post....

I would like to see an end view of the part where you are referring to for the threads be made. May be enough meat (metal), but just doesn't seem like there would be ?

 

[chazza]

"Tim,
To clarify, the modification is for the internals of the valve, not the hose connection point?

Thanks,
Mike"

Yes, the modification Tim mentioned, was to control bad leaking at the control arm end of the valve.

It appears that the valve is a dud at both ends!

Cheers Charlie

 

[Alpine 1789]

I would like to see an end view of the part where you are referring to for the threads be made. May be enough meat (metal), but just doesn't seem like there would be ?

Mike Hartman is the one who had the valve that started the discussion. Mike: do you still have it? If so, can you get a photo of the end where the flange was removed? Looking at it, does my idea of making a threaded insert seem possible?

 

[65beam]

I think you'll find the valve shown in the e bay add is the early MG valve. These folks make some really nice parts. I've bought quite a bit from them for my stock including the stainless mounting bracket and valve for the early Alpine heater.

 

[hartmandm]

I have 3 of these MGC valves. (Calling it a "dud at both ends" seems appropriate.)
#1 - leaked out the control pin.
#2 - flange separated during installation
#3 - a (free) replacement for number 2. Not installed.

The wall thickness where the flange was glued into is 1/8". The hole depth is about 1/2".

If the early MG valve is better quality, maybe we should look into the feasibility of cutting the early MG valve and threading it. I paid around $90 plus shipping for the MGC heater valves. The early MG valve only costs $51 including shipping currently.

Mike

 

[65beam]

I have 3 of these MGC valves. (Calling it a "dud at both ends" seems appropriate.)
#1 - leaked out the control pin.
#2 - flange separated during installation
#3 - a (free) replacement for number 2. Not installed.

The wall thickness where the flange was glued into is 1/8". The hole depth is about 1/2".

If the early MG valve is better quality, maybe we should look into the feasibility of cutting the early MG valve and threading it. I paid around $90 plus shipping for the MGC heater valves. The early MG valve only costs $51 including shipping currently.

Mike

There were two heater valves used during the MGC production. The valve that you say leaks had an extension like the series 5 to attach the heater hose to, not the type of valve that bolts on. The reason they are cut off and the adapter to attach the 1/2 in Alpine heater hose added is because the extension is the size that the adapter is pressed into. It appears ashleyhinton made an adapter in order to eliminate the cutting and installing the sleeve that leaks.

 

[65beam]

Modified MGC valve I made a few years back and an original series 5 valve on the right. The MGC valve used a 3/4 in hose. I used clear J B Weld to install the adapter.

 

[DanR]

From the looks of the so called "replacement" valve, it is in no way "like" an original. If that being the case why fool with it at all? Utilize a nice very functional valve that has proven to be very "operational" for our (my) needs.

 

[65beam]

Dan,
I have a couple original valves in stock and I don't remember why I did the modification to the MG valve other than I probably just wanted to see if it could be done. I have one of the Honda valves that I bought from Doug @ Tiger Auto when he was selling them. He's used them on a lot of cars and they work good.

 

[hartmandm]

From the looks of the so called "replacement" valve, it is in do way "like" an original. If that being the case why fool with it at all? Utilize a nice very functional valve that has proven to be very "operational" for our (my) needs.

Dan,

I think the MGC valve looks reasonably similar to the original SV valve. There are some differences between the two, the most obvious one being the 3/4" outlet pipe with a 1/2" adapter. It seems to be the best option to get a stock appearance.

Note: I added the 3 small screws seen on the original valve to keep the bracket together.

If I open up one of my MGC valves to mod the internals to address the leak, the housing would then be empty and it should be an opportunity to solder a 1/2" pipe into the 3/4" outlet. However, I'll try to repair my original heater valve first.

Mike

 

[DanR]

Mike, The screws look like a good remedy!

Wonder if a few tack welds would work? Metal is very thin though,

 

[65beam]

Dan,
I think you find that there is already a spot weld on the bracket and when the cable is installed the bracket doesn't come apart.