Clayton Dewandre -Another messy one...

Bernd send me a PM with your address just so it saves time. If I start looking into my Euro trip documents I will get sidetracked with photos and such.

 

Well stated Limey. That is why I have two or three projects going at the same time. I'm never without a challenge.

 

Don't we all have too many projects

P.S. The alu cleaner just arrived from UK. So will try after Xmas...

 

Yes, they pick a metallic, light silver aerosol spray can but the aluminum flakes are TOO large and the silver too light...not good. I have done some paint matching at my paint store (20 years ago now) and my tech found a match using a "Pearl" medium silver. A pearl has much smaller "flakes" and matches the original better. Also his pearl does not have that pearlescent look of the hot-rod, custom paint jobs
Jan

 

Hi. New to the forum (in fact new to forums of any kind) I'm looking for some help if possible. I am trying to restore the Clayton servo for my C series.
In the fluid passage from the main cylinder to the air valve there is a grub screw that can only be accessed by a Allan key throught the bleed nipple hole. The grub screw prevents the passage of fluid to the air valve piston. As far as i know there is no similar device in the Lockheed servo. and I cannot find a schematic diagram and cannot think why the screw should be there as fluid needs to reach the air valve piston. Can anyone explain the reason for it? I'd be grateful for any assistance

 

First of all welcome to this corner of the forum. Your Avatar C-series looks somewhat familiar to me . Have you been with it to last year's Spares Day ?

Secondly, that is a very interesting aspect you recognized with your CDW. Haven't quite been that far on mine but when I opened up the air valve screw I found it too. Hmm not sure what the actual function is. The makers chart shows a small bit called "seating" (part#24):

 

I just finished the second iteration of my #41 Sebring Alpine Series II dash repaint. My paint guy and I came to the same conclusion Jan, re the metallic flakes. I'm not certain he used Pearl medium silver, but this product is very close to original. My paint guy and I agreed on adding some clear. First coating had a wonderful shine. After sanding with 1200 I compared the outcome to a 1200 sanded steering column cover plate with original paint.

 

Great work jerry.

 

Hi Bernd. Appreciate the welcome. I've had the Harrington 35 years so been around a bit. Also it's the car on C series section of the Harrington Website and if you mean this years spares UK spares day at The Rootes Archive Cantre then yes I was there.
Thanks for posting the exploded diagram. Very useful.
With regard to the grub screw I can only surmise it is there to control the flow of fluid to the air valve piston. I intend to remove the air valve and piston, connect the servo, bleed the brakes and open the grub screw sufficient to allow fluid to flow into the chamber at a controlled rate then reconnect and test. The flow rate being a matter of trial and error as I cannot find any info. Other suggestions most welcome.

 

Ok, think we briefly met at the Spares day then.

There also is a function description of CDW in the SAOC Alpine Guide. However this grub screw is not explicitly mentioned there so one can only make assumptions. Can not tell you more at the moment, but pls. let s us know how you get on with this topic...

 

Then we briefly met @ the spares day. Took some pictures of your car. Nice original one...

Regarding the CDW there is a more detailed functional description in the SAOC Alpine Guide. However grub screw function not explained in there. Can not help more at the moment since I'm also still digging into the functional aspects. Pls. keep us informed about any progress you make...

 

Hi Hewi,

I dismantled 2 CDWs last week. One had a grub screw and the other did not. I do not think either had been open in their life.

I believe it could be a machining hole because it runs in a straight line from the bleed screw, through the secondary diaphragm and ends in the main bore.

The hole in the bore is less than 1mm so I can't see how it can be something adjustable

Oliver

 

Hi Bernd,

You probably have all this sewn up but I found this company in the UK does all the re-coil kits for the CDW. All my CDWs have corroded screws on the main diaphragm cover which sheared of and required drilling out and re-threading back to original thread. It's been a while but after one false start I think I will have the correct screws next week. The problem is that one of the 2 screw sizes slightly too long by 1.8mm. I can live with this. Its easy enough to lop off 2mm if rather tedious.

Oliver

 

Common problem on the CDW's. Thanks for the link. Could be helpful...

1.8 mm more length shouldn't represent a big problem...