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carburetor switch

wile coyote

Donation Time
Well the V6 is now running down the road! What a difference. Currently have no bonnet due to the stock carb setup being to tall. As someone predicted, the 85 Ranger Motorcraft 2150 is running a little rich. I would like to replace the carb. Even if I do, the approximately 3" tall standoff from the intake manifold to the carburetor needs to disappear to give the clearance I need. Does anyone know of a premade adaptor to remove this and close off the EGR hole in the intake manifold to allow the carb to bolt onto the manifold with no more than maybe 1 or 2 spacers? Everything I find on the internet and Ranger Station addresses removing the valve but not the tall unit between the manifold and the carb. I would like to keep the same intake manifold. I have a slightly modified cam, otherwise no changes. I thought the Weber 38 might be a good option. Ideas?
 

wile coyote

Donation Time
What engine mounts are you using.... Might be too tall.
I am using Jose's. Mike's method would fix the problem, I was just convinced somebody would have an adapter plate or something. I tried calling Redline but as soon as I mentioned a "project car" he cut me off and told me to call Clifford Performance. They promptly told me they only deal with straight 6's. I'll keep looking.

Spacer aside, what carb would you guys prefer for a quick daily driver?
 

sunalp

Diamond Level Sponsor
We used a Weber 38/38 which bolts right to the manifold, no spacer needed. It's a great carb, very tunable.
Redline set the whole thing up and it was done very well. Very little tuning needed.

Cheers!
Steve
 

sunalp

Diamond Level Sponsor
The Manifold is the stock Ford manifold that came on the engine. It is a '75 Mustang II
2.8. The EGR is easily blocked off. You can make a plate from sheet metal pretty easily
just trace the EGR valve end and cut it to shape. RTV works very well at sealing it.

Cheers!
Steve
 

Mike Armstrong

Bronze Level Sponsor
Hi guys. Unfortunately I’ve been so busy I haven’t had a chance to install the Holley yet but just as Jim said, I can confirm it will bolt right on.

I had two reasons for going the route of modifying the two stock spacers to mount a carb. The first was to get rid of the hideous (to me) stock carb tower, which besides aesthetics, secondarily allows hood clearance for a host of air filter housing choices. If there is an adapter out there you can buy (I couldn’t find one at the time) that would be the way to go. Modifying the spacers is certainly not as easy as bolting a carb right onto the tower but, with some careful measuring and drilling, it turned out to be a pretty solid base.

As far as which carb. My stubborn self decided to take on the challenge of trying to get the stock 2150(A) carb to work correctly. And just as I was warned, despite a couple years of tinkering, it never did quite function right ( I think the Manual Metering Block was a cool idea but more of a bandaid than a proper fix). Seems allot of guys just swap the 2150(A) for a proper Non-Feedback stock carb like a 2100. On this forum and Ford forums that I frequent I’ve rarely read much about using Weber’s other than for off road use (don’t know why) and that they’re difficult to tune (though it sounds like Steve has had success with his), but always read about Holley’s being used whether a 2 barrel on the stock intake or 4 barrel on the Offy intake.

Other than Jose’s headers, my 2.8 is stock (Duraspark II Conversion) so I finally decided to go with the popular Holley 2300 2 barrel, in particular the 80350 model Jim has had great success with and recommends.

Once I get a chance to install it I’ll report back.
 
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260Alpine

Silver Level Sponsor
Mike, Life does get in the way of our projects. Looking forward to the thread. The Holley 2 barrel and Duraspark distributor worked wonders on my sons' Ranger 2.8 V6. The Weber bolt pattern must be the same as the smaller inside bolt pattern?
 

Mike Armstrong

Bronze Level Sponsor
The Weber bolt pattern must be the same as the smaller inside bolt pattern?

Hmmm, dunno. Maybe it does bolt right onto the smaller bolt pattern of the intake as opposed to the larger bolt pattern of the tower. Maybe Steve will chime back in.

Edit: Reading over his post again it seems he retained the tower so I assume it’s bolt pattern is the same as stock.
 

260Alpine

Silver Level Sponsor
Mike, Steve has the Mustang II intake. I was just curious as I had used the Weber 32/36 on 4 cylinders not the 38. It would be another alternative.
 

Mike Armstrong

Bronze Level Sponsor
Mike, Steve has the Mustang II intake. I was just curious as I had used the Weber 32/36 on 4 cylinders not the 38. It would be another alternative.

Could be something (else :) ) I’m not aware of. Is the stock Mustang II intake different (no tower ?) from the later stock Bronco II intake that I have?
 

260Alpine

Silver Level Sponsor
Mike, Yes, no tower but, has dual bolt pattern. I know it used a 2150 pre-emissions Autolite stock. Maybe the Europeans used the Weber. I had Holley versions on Vegas and Pintos fours and they were relatively trouble free.
 

sunalp

Diamond Level Sponsor
Hi Guys,
The Weber has a different bolt pattern, but Redline has an adapter that bolts to the manifold, then the carb
bolts to that. It is a really nice carb. Compared to the Holley, which literally dribbles gas, the Weber really
atomizes it. The 38/38 is like a machine and gives better performance than the Holley. I have the Holley
in a box on the shelf whereas the Weber is performing really well on the car.

We had originally thought about the 32/36, but Redline recommended the 38/38 for the application.
They set it all up, adapter and all and it was less than $400 for everything. I know the 350 & 390 Holleys
are priced comparably.

The Holley needs to be higher off the intake as it needs the extra air space, ask me how I know.
Anyway, if yo want a rebuilt Holley 350 with manual choke, make me an offer.

Cheers!
Steve
 

Mike Armstrong

Bronze Level Sponsor
Hi Guys,
The Weber has a different bolt pattern, but Redline has an adapter that bolts to the manifold, then the carb
bolts to that. It is a really nice carb. Compared to the Holley, which literally dribbles gas, the Weber really
atomizes it. The 38/38 is like a machine and gives better performance than the Holley. I have the Holley
in a box on the shelf whereas the Weber is performing really well on the car.

We had originally thought about the 32/36, but Redline recommended the 38/38 for the application.
They set it all up, adapter and all and it was less than $400 for everything. I know the 350 & 390 Holleys
are priced comparably.

The Holley needs to be higher off the intake as it needs the extra air space, ask me how I know.
Anyway, if yo want a rebuilt Holley 350 with manual choke, make me an offer.

Cheers!
Steve

Steve, I’d be curious to know more about the Holley and the needed extra air space. Is it because of heat from the engine or atomization? Thanks
 

260Alpine

Silver Level Sponsor
Mike, I don't know what Steve means, but the Ford and Holley used to use a spacer about as thick as your two. It had a PCV tube and sometimes a heater hose connection to warm the carb base. I still have one with the PCV pipe on the shelf in my garage. As for atomization, all carbs squirt unless they have the annular boosters, maybe the Weber does. There is a add on deflector also that is interesting and a simple bolt on.

https://www.thompsonperformance.com/home.html

https://www.thompsonperformance.com/info.html
 
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sunalp

Diamond Level Sponsor
The Holley, when bolted directly to the manifold, dumps too much raw gas into the intake. What we experienced
was quite large flames shooting out of the top of the carb, almost up to the ceiling. Because of this, when we put the stock
riser back on, it acted better but space ( to the hood) was compromised. We did some research and found the Weber.
Didn't know about annular boosters.

It sits down on the manifold and doesn't dump gas into the intake. It's a much more sophisticated carb but easy
to understand and tune. The Holley isn't anywhere as tuneable.

We kind of just gave up on the Holley once we found and installed the Weber. The car went from a flamethrower
to a controlled running engine with this application.

Just our experience.

Cheers!
Steve
 

260Alpine

Silver Level Sponsor
Steve, If your Holley is older it doesn't have power valve protection and one backfire will blow the power valve. I don't have much experience with the Weber but the smaller ones seemed reliable. I like a spacer under the carb anyways especially the plastic one for heat isolation.
 
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