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7K Tach

artic cat

Donation Time
just my 2 cents

What is a 2,000 rpm "red-line" ? I thought a reline was just that, a line that you did not pass without trepidation. How high do you rev the engine? Does the end of the red-line at 8K mean you can rev to 8K? If so, why start the red-line at 6K?

Bill
most likely 6k is where the factory decided the engine would float, that can be detrimental to the engine.

these days a red line or shift point is set to the peak hp of the motor. hp actually falls off after revs get over a certain point even with out damage to the engine. depending on how your engine is set up determines the rpm that it will reach max hp.

I can only speculate that an original 260 would max out hp between 4500 and 5500 rpm.

most tacks that you can buy today have an output to light a shift light when the tach reaches the rpm that you have set into it. you find that point by having the car dyno tested.

:cool: Steve
 

alpine_64

Donation Time
most likely 6k is where the factory decided the engine would float, that can be detrimental to the engine.

I can only speculate that an original 260 would max out hp between 4500 and 5500 rpm.
:cool: Steve

The Tiger 260 was redlined at such a low level as the motors would self destruct at 5250 in testing. They produced their maximum power around 4,400 and max torque around 2,200. The motors were in a very low state of tune (lowest offered by ford) they also had a habbit of pulling the rocker studs out if rev hard.
 

mattinoz

Donation Time
Thanks. Yeah, I realise I can get them from guys who make them, but the real question is HOW do they actually make these repro dial faces? What process is used?

I ask, because I may want to make a similar face for some older gauges for my Triumph Renown.

Not that my repos are up to this standard but I did make some reasonably good faces for my Fuel and Temp gauges and insitu they are quite good for a daily driver. See before and after shots. My method started by dismantling and then using a reasonably good digital camera took several macro closeup images at as high a resolution as possible. Mine were 1288 x 1712 pixels. Then using a graphics progam like photoshop or similar I re coloured the lettering and background. This part is very painstacking and require patience and time. The hi res images allow you to super size them to make the recoluring rather simply, not easy but simple. Once this is done reduce the image back to actual size and then print out on a good injet or laser printer, cut out to shape and glue using artists glue over the original face.

When I'm wealthy I'll consider sending them away for a professional rebuild but for the time being I'm happy with the results.
 
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