RootesRooter
Donation Time
I'm having a devil of a time installing the front hardtop-to-windshield frame seal on my SV. Any recommended tools or techniques?
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Weatherstrip installation tips?
- Thread starter RootesRooter
- Start date
George Coleman
Gold Level Sponsor
Should be a channel for the rubber to slide into, other than that should be stright forward.
65beam
Donation Time
tips
we had the same problem. it took a lot of work with picks to open up the flange to allow the rubber to fit. we also glued the rubber to the channel. the person that did the hard top restoration has been doing this for 40+ years and he finds a lot of rubber doesn't quite fit as the original did. it appears that when you compare it to an original piece the new seal is larger and as I have heard so many times from him a slight modification is required.
we had the same problem. it took a lot of work with picks to open up the flange to allow the rubber to fit. we also glued the rubber to the channel. the person that did the hard top restoration has been doing this for 40+ years and he finds a lot of rubber doesn't quite fit as the original did. it appears that when you compare it to an original piece the new seal is larger and as I have heard so many times from him a slight modification is required.
mikephillips
Donation Time
I think the sponge type foam used is heavier too Bob. Doesn't seem to compress as easily to push into the channels.
65beam
Donation Time
tips
he also had problems with the hard top corner pads. one of the guys at the shop spent time using a sanding block to cut down the thickness since they were so thick that we could not pull down the B post clamps and keep them latched. the seal under the back presented the same problem as the windshield seal and also kept the top setting too high. he ended up cutting it down to allow the rear to set lower
he also had problems with the hard top corner pads. one of the guys at the shop spent time using a sanding block to cut down the thickness since they were so thick that we could not pull down the B post clamps and keep them latched. the seal under the back presented the same problem as the windshield seal and also kept the top setting too high. he ended up cutting it down to allow the rear to set lower
mikephillips
Donation Time
The original, althought not usable, pads that came off one hardtop were much closer in consistancy to the foam weatherstrip. The replacements I got are much more like hard rubber. I think we all have trouble making them fit right.
bulldurham
Platinum Level Sponsor
I id my car a few years ago w/ the foam type from SS. More recently did a Volvo 1800 w/ the same seals and used contact cement letting the first inch or two set up before continuing the job, w/ good results.
I found that if you stretched it a little it was easier to get in the channel but I could do only an inch or two at a time [ that way it would shrink back to it's original size] so there was no tension in the seal. It take just a thin line of cement on each surface to keep it in place til it forms the bond.
I found that if you stretched it a little it was easier to get in the channel but I could do only an inch or two at a time [ that way it would shrink back to it's original size] so there was no tension in the seal. It take just a thin line of cement on each surface to keep it in place til it forms the bond.
RootesRooter
Donation Time
So, if you're using glue, then you're not actually sliding the seal the entire length of the channel, right?
bulldurham
Platinum Level Sponsor
The seal shoulders are in the track all the way around. The only way to be sure it stays in is to use some contact cement. The cement does not have to be continuous but it does have to be on the track and the seal at the same place for good contact and bonding.
My car has a 4-5" rusted track on the bottom, w/ the outside of the track just about gone, so no shoulder for the seal. That was glued continuously and has held up .
I haven't looked for a source for the tracks but I guess someone out there makes them.
My car has a 4-5" rusted track on the bottom, w/ the outside of the track just about gone, so no shoulder for the seal. That was glued continuously and has held up .
I haven't looked for a source for the tracks but I guess someone out there makes them.
mikephillips
Donation Time
I did at one point find a source for replacement track from a Jaguar supplier. Only came in straight sections and I didn't pursue it as they wanted $6/ft.