SV Steering box refresh

[ForzaDesign]

Can anyone refer me to a SV steering box rebuild manual and/or rebuild kit. I have seen some old threads that mention how these boxes leak down even when seals are new. Is the grease instead of gear box oil concept legit? Even though the car has only 54K original miles it has been sitting for at least 25 years. I will attempt to replace every soft mechanical part.
Thanks in advance.

 

[V_Mad]

The rebuild instructions are in the workshop manual. I rebuilt mine carefully, but the new seal still leaked.
Before you spend time/money on it check the condition of the worm gear, If that has corroded it is scrap, otherwise all you need is a new set of steel balls; there are two sizes. Getting the preload right is tedious, but it needs to be done properly to get the best performance.

 

[Nickodell]

Is the grease instead of gear box oil concept legit?

Yes, provided you use the lightest grade possible. Petroleum-based (as opposed to silicone) grease is nothing more than gear oil made into a gel with a soap - not the kind you wash with but usually a sodium- or lithium-based one. As it is a gel, or semi-solid, it won't easily leak. I make my own O'Dell's Patent Steering Box Lube (OPSBL) from graphite grease and gear oil. After experimenting with different mixes, I hit on one that works some years ago.

If you use anything but a very light grade it won't penetrate the ball return tube etc., and you'll get fretting and wear. The only snag with grease is getting it into the box. Unlike oil you can't pour it through the filler hile. For this reason I installed a Zerk grease nipple in the top plate. Every month I give it a few shots with a manual grease gun filled with OPSBL. If it starts to come out under the steering wheel I guess I'm overdoing it.

 

[jumpinjan]

I agree with Nick, you want the lightest grease in there. I wouldn't use EP grease, something like Lubriplate #105 is good. I purchased mine at Motion Industries. It also has a 1/4 nozzle so you can just open the plug and push the nozzle in.
Jan

 

[ForzaDesign]

Great input gentlemen.
sounds very reasonable. Am I correct in assuming the viscosity of the grease should be similar to lithium grease? Any gothca's to look out for when replacing the the seal, bushing, etc?

Thanks again.

 

[P. Scofield]

I rebuilt mine and have not had any leakage. Well, let me not go that far since I have not taken the cover off the car or opened the hood in over a year!!
Seriously, if the bottom seal "O" ring is replaced, you should be good. You most likely will need to remove a shim from the top lid, however, if you need new sizes or more shims let me know, I have tanked a couple boxes over the last year or two and saved the shims.

Paul

 

[jumpinjan]

You have to "shim" the preload on all the loose ball bearings, that's not a simple thing.
Is this an early or late box? They have different seals. The late box is easy, it uses an O-ring; The early box uses a seal that will be hard to find.
Yes, you want a fine lithium grease, I posted an example of one brand.
Jan

 

[ForzaDesign]

Thanks again. Helpful as usual. Not sure if the box is early or late. The car is going straight to the painter. I will try to get some mechanical issue done during the month while at the painter. I was hoping to buy a standard rebuild kit for it. apparently its not as simple as a Saginaw.

Thanks,
Jim

 

[V_Mad]

You have to "shim" the preload on all the loose ball bearings, that's not a simple thing..... Jan

Thats the most tedious part I think; I had three goes at it. Beware of overloading the bearings to eliminate all play; it makes for tight steering and lack of feedback from the wheels.