Single Wire Alternator Wanted

[serIIalpine]

Has anyone done the conversion to a single wire alternator and if so what model alternator did you use? Special mods you had to make? Etc?

I have a 1594 engine in my series II BTW.

Thanks

Eric

'62 SerII

 

[jumpinjan]

I wrote an article about the Lucas 15acr in the newsletter. It bolts right up, but you need the 1725 lower bracket.

 

[65beam]

alternator

jan,

what kind of amps is the 15 ACR putting out ? i need more than the 34 amps for my 69 GT with air.

 

[jumpinjan]

Bob,
I'm not sure, but Doug said to get the ACR model that has a wide iron core. The core is bigger and so, puts out more power.

 

[sunbby]

Delco Remy GM type 10SI alternators

1st here is a article directly addressing your topic:
http://www.team.net/www/rootes/sunbeam/alpine/mk1-5/techtips/altconv.html

He said the GM didn't fit? But it fits on mine. I think the 12SI case is bigger which might be an issue.

Anyway, I have a GM type 10SI on my Alpine, it's a Series V, so is negative ground but it has a Series 1 engine, so I believe the crank and water pump pulleys are spaced a bit differently than the later Series. I think they can be anywhere from 60-140 amps.

These alternators are available everywhere, you can get blinged out chrome ones from speed shops, etc like Summit. Note, you may have to be careful about which orientation the connectors are compared to the mounting ears:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRO%2D66445%2D6N&N=700+4294925143+4294880793+115&autoview=sku

You need to take care of mounting and wiring. Look at this thread about how mine is mounted:
http://www.saoca.org/protected/forum/showthread.php?t=1235

Notice mine has a two groove pulley, and I'm using the forward groove. If I understand correctly the later Series water pumps don't stick out as far, so hopefully a single groove pulley would then line up. Maybe someone else can verify the Series I vs. Series II water pump offsets?

Did you convert to negative ground? There is much info about wiring these alternators up on the net. Some sites say you can't use a warning light with a 1-wire, some say you can. I have my 1-wire alternator wired as a 3-wire, with the Ignition Warning light connected and it seems to work, although I haven't put many miles on it yet. I ditched the alternator controller, voltage regulator and warning light simulator. You probably only have a controller which you will have to take out, then wire the alternator to the battery connection at the starter solenoid and the warning lamp.

Here's some more links:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/delcoremy.shtml
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire.shtml
http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/10si.htm

 

[jumpinjan]

1st here is a article directly addressing your topic:
He said the GM didn't fit? But it fits on mine

TomW is using the stock series II headers, so clearance of the headers is a big, big problem. I have worked on his car, and its still tighter than running a factory generator. Getting to the mounting bolts is just about impossible with that Jap set-up.

If I understand correctly the later Series water pumps don't stick out as far, so hopefully a single groove pulley would then line up. Maybe someone else can verify the Series I vs. Series II water pump offsets?

It's the pulleys that are different. Also, looking at your crankshaft pulley, you might have a Minx (sedan) engine, and not a series I Alpine. The Minx is all sheetmetal; The Alpine has a normal crankshaft damper.

I ditched the alternator controller, voltage regulator and warning light simulator. You probably only have a controller which you will have to take out, then wire the alternator to the battery connection at the starter solenoid and the warning lamp.

This is standard practice when replacing the series V factory alternator with the 15ACR (or any single wire type).
Jan

 

[65beam]

alternator

i have been talking to a shop in california that is selling BOSCH alternators on e bay.they are direct replacement to the original lucas on the series 5.they bolt up to the alpine bracket and are internal regulator.so they are one wire units.they put out 75 amps.they also can supply the wiring and connectors.the owner bought a 69 GT new so he's familar with alpines.

 

[sunbby]

TomW is using the stock series II headers, so clearance of the headers is a big, big problem. I have worked on his car, and its still tighter than running a factory generator. Getting to the mounting bolts is just about impossible with that Jap set-up.

Yes, I should have prefaced my experience with the fact that while I have a Series I engine (I think), I definitely have the Series V intake manifold (dual Strombergs) and I would guess exhaust as well. So heed Jan's advice and check out how much room you have before buying stuff.

It's the pulleys that are different. Also, looking at your crankshaft pulley, you might have a Minx (sedan) engine, and not a series I Alpine. The Minx is all sheetmetal; The Alpine has a normal crankshaft damper.
Jan

Well I think I have a Series I engine, or block at least, serial #B9007764? Given the other work on my car I wouldn't be surprised to find more crazy parts mix and match going on. I wonder if a proper crankshaft damper would quiet down or smooth out my rattle trap a little bit? Thanks for the clarifications Jan.

 

[serIIalpine]

So I took the alternator that I had been lead to believe was internally regulated to an automotive electric shop to have it tested and I was told that "of course this doesn't charge under load it doesn't have it's external regulator", This lead to three stops at different parts places but ultimately at a alternator repair shop 25 miles away.

There old school knowledge of product was used to find me an internally regulated alternator. Once they told me what type I needed I found one myself sitting right on the shelf with perfectly spaced mounting ears.

The owner then ran a wire from one of the two spades to the bolt for the battery lead and he told me to hook the other spade to the low voltage lead that comes from the ignition switch that is used to excite the coil. (apparently it's not enought that I myself am self exciting).

I brought it home. Drilled my bracket to accept the larger 3/8" bolt needed bt the alternator. Bolted it up and ran the wires as prescribed.

WHALA!!! 14.1 volts. Turn on the lights and what do ya know 14.1 volts.

I think he said it was either an 60 or 80 amp alternator so driving lights, H4 headlights and a stereo w/ amp should be no problem.

I'll post pix and get a part # ASAP.

Thanks

Eric
'62 SerII

 

[rootesrefuge]

jan,

what kind of amps is the 15 ACR putting out ? i need more than the 34 amps for my 69 GT with air.

I've got a 70 amp GM integral in my 67 Arrow, and a 90 amp VW Bosch in my 66 Alpine. The GM install in the Arrow would be almost identical to your GT.

I machined down the pivot point on the alternator to fit between the mount ears on the stock bracket. I visited a salvage yard and took a split sleeve from a GM alternator bracket, then drilled the Arrow bracket to take the sleeve. A new bolt to go through both mount ears pulling the sleeve tight against the alternator completes the pivot side.

I put a double groove pulley on the alternator, as the outer groove lined up perfectly with the existing belt. The stock adjusting bracket wouldn't work, so I made one up using an old Chevy one I had lying around. I'm sure a trip to the salvage yard would have resulted in a more elegant bracket, but this one works.

Wiring is easy, and rather than use the single wire setup I kept the separate plug so I could wire to the stock warning light. Yay, no warning lamp simulator! lol