A power adder is something like a turbo, supercharger, or nitrous.
I got the feling from your post, that it bothered you that I said that you shouldn't go wild on a street engine. If you want to build an engine like Sven recommends, you can do that. No one will critisize you for it. I was just trying to help a self professed neophyte, avoid the same mistakes I made.
Jose
After re-reading your post, I may have been mistaken on my first assessment. I 'm sorry I didn't read it closer.
To answer the question you asked, I will list the few things I do to get 200 hp. reliably.
1. I have the heads milled, but no more than .030, because these engines are of a thin wall design, and there isn't much material there to begin with.
2. I replace the stock valves, with ones from a 2.9 V6.
3. I have the heads ported and polished by a professional. I don't personally have the kind of patience it requires to sit hour after hour with a hot die grinder in my hand.
4. I use a cam profile that was recommended to me by the guy that ported my first heads. It is a dual pattern cam, to better suit the flow patterns of these head castings. I use a stock set of new 2.9 V6 springs. I have found no need to use expensive after market springs.
5. I use an Offenhouser four barrel intake manifold, with a Holley 390 cfm carburetor. I have never used one of the Carter 410 cfm carbs, but I think it might be even better than the Holley, especially for nthe engine that has the bigger 2.9 valves.
6. I recommend having a steel cam gear made, rather than using the aluminum replacement gear. I have had two of them break on me. No fun. Luckily, these engines don't have the valves at an angle to the piston tops, because it would have bent some of the valves when the cam gear broke.
These things can be done to an engine that is already built and in good shape. The following things, I recommend to do if you either have your engine rebuilt or you do it yourself. The above procedures will produce better than 200 hp. reliably.
7. Use the very best parts you can. Don't go with the cheapest parts.
8. I have all my rebiulds balanced, to increase longivity, smoothness and economy.
9. I recommend using a NEW high volume oil pump. Melling makes them, the last time I looked.
The following procedures, I recommend for anyone who wants to use a power adder. If the engine is producing more than 300 hp., it will shuffel the main caps, ruining the block. These engines have only four mains, so need a bit of help holding all that power.
10. I have the two center mains pinned. The way I do this, is by making some steel rings to place in the counter bore that the block has where the main bolts go. If someone wants to do this procedure, please send me an e-mail and I will describe what has to be done.
11. I replace all the rod bolts, with ARP bolts from a 298 Ford v8. They will fit perfectly.
12. I have the rods beamed, (removinging the parting line of the rod beam), and shot peened at the same time.
13. I use custom forged pistons, with no more than 8.0 to 1 compression. I would have them made with the ring pack grooves lowered, to avoid the extra heat the power adder creates. I use gapless rings, to increase sealing of the gases.
These last procedures will help the engine last longer than a struck match. I hope this answers most of your questions.
Jose
