Copper flare washers for leaky brake lines

[260Alpine]

I didn't know these existed! Highly recommended for stainless brake lines:

https://www.amazon.com/Copper-Flare-Gasket-2GF/dp/B00YTF8ZTK

 

[puff4]

Interesting. So this goes between the pipe flare and the seat inside the orifice? I assume this is for a double-flare situation?

 

[260Alpine]

Yep, would probably conform to bubble flare too when tightened. Don't know for sure, as I only use double flare.

 

[Aladin Sane]

Oh, that may save me having to reflare some brake lines. I hate flaring steel lines.

 

[Bill Blue]

Oh, that may save me having to reflare some brake lines. I hate flaring steel lines.

Good reason to use the copper-SS alloy lines. Very strong, workable and never corrode. What more could you want?

 

[Toyanvil]

I use this for my SS brake lines, works perfect no leaks at all.https://www.eastwood.com/profession...ickedid=629947574806&wickedsource=google&wv=4

 

[911tr8r]

A little off topic .... my brand new MC is leaking where plastic reservoir goes into metal cylinder. I have tried to squeeze together with my hands but no luck. Was thinking of channel locks or a C clamp but do not wish to crack reservoir. Thoughts?

 

[Billm]

When making my own brake lines I had difficulties with leaking flare fittings. I finally bought Girling flare fittings from a company called Fedhill. I couldn’t get the fitting at the distribution block to seal no matter how many times I flared the line.

 

[Pete S.]

I didn't know these existed! Highly recommended for stainless brake lines:

https://www.amazon.com/Copper-Flare-Gasket-2GF/dp/B00YTF8ZTK

Make sure you anneal the copper gasket before use.

 

[belmateo]

And stay away from copper lines.

 

[260Alpine]

Pure copper, yes, but cupro nickle alloy is fine. Easy to bend and flare and corrosion resistant.

 

[Rick Young]

I've seen the HVAC guys use them and one made of plastic on the lines for leaking split systems
. I didn't think about brake lines.

 

[Bill Blue]

Pure copper, yes, but cupro nickle alloy is fine. Easy to bend and flare and corrosion resistant.

I have found the "easy to bend" feature to be "maybe", depending on how it is done. Every time I have used one of the handy-dandy tube benders, the cupro-nickle line kinks. Wrap it around a socket, perfect!. Gentle bends using hand only, also perfect. No idea why the bender does not do a perfect job. But hand forming is easy and can be neatly done, as opposed to steel lines which are difficult with benders and impossible by hand.
Bill

 

[belmateo]

Have you tried using the springs designed for bending tubing? They come in many sizes.

 

[Toyanvil]

I only use pre-annealed stainless steel tubing for all my lines, no kinks or leaks. And the Eastwood flaring tool does not leave grooves in the tubing that can be a failure point. I also add a guard to any line that may rub something.

 

[Bill Blue]

Have you tried using the springs designed for bending tubing? They come in many sizes.

No, but have them and wonder about their intended use. Do you use them with benders? Don't otherwise need them.
Bill

 

[DAVID LAWLER]

I've successfully been bending stainless, steel & copper tubing for many years, and found that the problem with the benders is how the follower shoe behaves. First it should be smooth - even polished on the surface that contacts the tube. Second, it needs lubrication so that it does not drag the tube through the mandrel and then collapse it. A little oil on the contact surface of the shoe works charms to solve the collapsing of the tube. Hope this helps.

With respect to copper washers whether old or new, it pays to always anneal them since they suffer from work hardening. I use a piece of old metal coat hanger bent as a hook. Then I gently heat the washer with a propane torch until it just starts to glow red, and then immediately submerge it in cold water. If you slow cool copper or brass it does not get nearly as soft. Depending on how slowly you cool brass it can actually get harder and crystalize on you. The behavior is almost the opposite of steel.

Dave

 

[Bill Eisinger]

I used the copper-alloy tubing on my SI V6 conversion project…first time I ever used it and I thought it was great. For whatever reason, I didn’t have much trouble making the bends…I think it depends on the type of tool you use…the larger the barrel, the better. I did try to use a crimper style tool (not the kind where you form the tube around a barrel) and never was able to make a bend without a crimp. I also used the wire type of benders…they worked great for larger radius bends…

I‘ve used copper washers in the past on other projects with steel lines...they work great. With the copper-alloy tubing they aren’t required. The first time I pressurized the brake lines I had just a couple minor leaks which were easily taken care of…I do think with the alloy type of tubing it’s important when fixing a leaky connection to first back off the tension before tightening it down…you should do the same with steel lines but the alloy material is softer and relaxes more when you back of the tension.

 

[belmateo]

No, but have them and wonder about their intended use. Do you use them with benders? Don't otherwise need them.
Bill

Bill,
They are to be used as a stand alone for making multiple bends in lue of the tubing bender.