New Paint with fish eye......

[Mike O'D]

How much time between coats of paint/clear? I learned that I wasn't waiting long enough between coats to allow the solvent to evaporate - as Steve mentioned. What I ended up with was tiny bubbles trapped in the clear. It didn't look like your surface - it was smoother until I tried wet sanding, which opened the bubbles.

 

[jumpinjan]

Please run some spray-out tests before the next application to the body parts to understand whats going on.
Spray out a sample of the basecoat, then the clear and see the result. See if it will reproduce the same fish-eyes again.
Jan

 

[DanR]

Dan- My painter used surface cleaner FT200 with paper towel to wipe down. He would do this even before putting primer on bare metal to ensure a good bond. Very time consuming but the results paid off. I’m sure you did this but the most important one is the last prep wipe. Did you seal coat before color coat? Fish eye has always been the biggest pain when painting!

We did the sealer then red..

 

[DanR]

OK Guys, Here are a few PIC's that will show what we did after a visit to the NAPA Dealer and a lot of work hand sanding 400 & 600 grit paper (with water mostly).

While not perfect we attempted to run a test utilizing the "OLD" Vs the NEW Clear.

The Old was the 1st we bought that created the huge Fish Eye effect. After careful study of all areas of the shop we decided it had to be the clear not being compatible with the Red Paint for some odd reason. The Dealer did not then agree....Perhaps now he will see.

The first three PIC's are the brackets ready for the clear coat.

We cleaned the measuring bowl to be rid of any prior matter. Sprayed one of the Alpine Gas Tank Brackets with the 1st Clear we purchased (labeled as old). Immediately the fish eyes (FE) were evident. flipped to the other side and did the same. See 4th and 5th PIC's

Then we repeated the process by cleaning the measuring bowl again free of any foreign matter. Measured out the New Clear, then next sprayed the Alpine gas tank bracket marked (New) and the results were perfect. NO Fish Eye (FE). The last two PIC's depict the results of no FE....

Next we did the trunk lid in the same manner using the New Clear..... Nice finish too!

It is our fault that we did not sand every FE cavity from the Lid. Next we are to try some sort of Fish Eye Remover that is to be added to the clear.

 

[DanR]

Please run some spray-out tests before the next application to the body parts to understand whats going on.
Spray out a sample of the basecoat, then the clear and see the result. See if it will reproduce the same fish-eyes again.
Jan

Jan, Will what I put in POST 24 help answer your request?

 

[dansun22]

...speaking of clear coat ...is it the case that more layers of CC make the base color " POP "(stand out more)?

 

[sunalp]

..speaking of clear coat ...is it the case that more layers of CC make the base color " POP "(stand out more)?

What you will get with more clear is more depth, which I guess you could call "pop".

I have 6 coats of clear on the Humber I'm working on and ,once sanded and buffed, looks like liquid paint.
Cheers!
Steve

 

[PROCRAFT]

Not very good prep in my book, and there is a fish eye reducer available

 

[Gordon Holsinger]

Not very good prep in my book, and there is a fish eye reducer available

It used to be called retarder!

 

[absunbeam]

Not PC Gordon, the fish were getting offended!

 

[PROCRAFT]

It used to be called retarder!

Should have said eliminator thanks for the "CORRECTION" available from most supply houses

 

[Gordon Holsinger]

Not PC Gordon, the fish were getting offended!

Seriously it was called retarder back in the day! Fisheye was particularly common with enamel and acrylics single stage paint in hot humid weather.

 

[DanR]

Update ! After lots of sanding to get rid of the fish eyes (?). We started over with the new Clear and Hardener.

In one stage of applying the base coat we got a very few tiny wrinkles on one piece, stopped, let dry, sanded out and resprayed.

When applying the "new" clear we had the shakes until all it was applied.

No problem at all, then second coat, all was well, then another that came out very nice.

Next will be to get on with the job....

 

[Bill Blue]

Dan, the way you have the filtered air supply set up, most of the output is recycled paint booth air. The fumes will eventually clog the two filters exposed to paint fumes. When I used the fan, all of the air output was outside air. That kept the paint fumes very low. But it is your fan, use it the way you and Lou want.

Bill

 

[alpine_64]

Good work dan.. Also see those tell tale top hats of the GT doors.

 

[DanR]

Dan, the way you have the filtered air supply set up

Bill, I'm open for advice on the set up. I placed a filter over both panel openings thinking that was correct.

Please help....

I'll call...

 

[Bill Blue]

Note: I've sent Dan an email about this, posting for the potential safety of others who want to circulate and filter paint booth air as Dan is doing in the photo.

I made the fan assembly "air box" to send filtered, outside air into my paint booth. As a result, the motor is an ordinary 1/3 hp shop motor and is NOT explosion proof. Same goes for any wiring or switches that may be present. Common paint thinners are very flammable and probably explosive.

Bill

 

[DanR]

Bill, An interesting point ! I will look into how to prevent any possible unwanted probabilities.

Also alert Lou to what you have said. Then figure a way to use the fan as you did.

DanR

 

[absunbeam]

Dan, when painting in a garage, the setup I have always seen was having a fan exhaust air out and putting a filter in an open window for the air that’s being replaced. We have always wetted down the floor to eliminate any dust from blowing up.
My friend Ken built a down draft paint booth there is an exhaust fan that draws the air out and filtered air is overhead which passes over the car. It’s a great setup for those who have one. But takes planning before building(if you have the space).

Seriously it was called retarder back in the day! Fisheye was particularly common with enamel and acrylics single stage paint in hot humid weather.

Gordon-I knew that, considering words that might hurt feelings these days. Even though it’s used in paint terms, poking fun at the PC crowd.

 

[Gordon Holsinger]

Dan, when painting in a garage, the setup I have always seen was having a fan exhaust air out and putting a filter in an open window for the air that’s being replaced. We have always wetted down the floor to eliminate any dust from blowing up.
My friend Ken built a down draft paint booth there is an exhaust fan that draws the air out and filtered air is overhead which passes over the car. It’s a great setup for those who have one. But takes planning before building(if you have the space).

Gordon-I knew that, considering words that might hurt feelings these days. Even though it’s used in paint terms, poking fun at the PC crowd.

Years ago I was working in a body shop as a painters helper. When I graduated from college I was an auto lines adjuster for a major insurance company I was in and out of body shops all of the time I got to know a lot of shop owners, body men and painters. When acrylic paints started to be more popular many of the painters hated them. One complaint was they were tricky to paint and achieve a good gloss, and were very dependent on temperature and humidity.