Transmission Replacement DIY

[hartmandm]

I am going to replace my standard series V transmission with an overdrive transmission. I want to do the replacement myself, but I don't have a car lift or a pit. I am wondering if it is possible to raise just one end of the vehicle (either end) high enough in order to pull and install the transmission. If so, any thoughts on how much the vehicle needs to be raised to have enough clearance for the transmission removal and installation?

Thanks,
Mike

 

[George Coleman]

Be careful!! I work on mine in a small building and I put my car up on four jack stands, two in the front at the control arms and two on the rear at the axel. I think it gives a good stable platform to work with, I do have to lay on my back and do the trans work, one more trick when you pull the trans. I disconnect the header down pipe and use a jack under the motor and lower the rear of the motor to help get the trans. in and out.

 

[hartmandm]

I will definitely be careful. I have no intention of being crushed under the vehicle.

Do you know how high you set your stands? Mine are adjustable height...

Also, the WSM mentions removing many items to allow the motor to be moved up and down (as you pointed out). Most of the items listed are straightforward. One item I am wondering about is the WSM indicates to disconnect the fuel supply line. My car has a black plastic fuel line running from the tank to the pump. I believe the original fuel line was metal? So I am thinking the plastic fuel line might tolerate some flexing and maybe I can avoid disconnecting the fuel line (and having to possibly drain the tank).

Thanks,
Mike

 

[mikephillips]

I will preface this by saying I haven't installed an overdrive. But it is a bit longer than a non-OD transmission and I believe you'll need to undo the engine mouns and move the assembly forward to clear the body X member to get it in.

 

[Alpine 1789]

You might want to consider pulling the engine and old transmission, doing the swap on the ground and then reinstalling it all together. In my experience, pulling the tranny by itself is only marginally less work than pulling everything and may actually be easier. Plus, you can clean up the engine and engine compartment, easily replace a few gaskets, etc. while you are at it. If you don't have an engine lift, they are relatively inexpensive to rent. Or, you can buy a decent cheap foldable lift if you have a Harbor Freight around for probably not a whole lot more than renting one.

 

[Acollin]

I love the " how high does the car need to be off the ground" question. I, too , was considering removing my trans to replace the front seal. I plan to let it leak for a while but I was considering the height question.

I have jack stands, but was consider using ramps-- wheels on the car obviously--and putting jack stands on the rear axle- ramp plus wheel and tire height. I was also considered cutting out the center section of an old trailer.

My guess is that there is also a point when working off your garage floor where you can get the car too high to be safely/comfortably working.

Can anyone answer the height question who has done the job on their back from the floor?

Thanks for asking the question!!!

 

[gordonra]

I changed the transmission in my SV twice.

The first time I did it with four jack stands in their highest adjustment. Of course I made sure the car was stable before beginning the work. If I recall correctly, I had to jack the front end up a little higher to allow the bell housing to clear while sliding it out the drivers side.

Putting the replacement back in the reverse order was something I would not recommend. Laying on your back, lifting the transmission by yourself, arms extended past your head is not fun. There was not enough height to get a transmission jack (or any other kind of jack) under the transmission to assist. Getting the alignment of the clutch in this precarious position took several tries and hours of cussing..

The second time I changed the transmission, I lifted the entire car with a fork lift and placed it on some heavy duty metal saw horses. The working height was much better, but I still had to sit under the car with my neck bent 45° to one side or the other because my arms weren't long enough to lay on the floor and reach the bolts.

Good luck with whatever method you choose...

Rich

 

[P. Scofield]

As you can see by this old photo I took of myself, having the a$$ end of your Alpine in the air at least a foot will help with the install or removal. Opposite of a Tiger where the front in the air and installing from the bottom is not a bad idea.
After the engine is in place, you can lower the rear enough so you can crawl under and lift or jack the tranny brace into place. Removing the tranny alone I find easiest with the head removed. And that's a chore in itself.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v475/Canisdog/Series III Tour/P1010014.jpg

 

[George Coleman]

I do not know the exact height in inches but I would say about foot and a half. I find that is good for me to work under and I am kinda big boy! I had a problem last year and had my trans. out three times in a few months and did all the work myself, I did use a low profile alum jack to left the trans up so I could pop it in, and used it to lower it too.

 

[65beam]

Diy

the transmission with OD is a longer unit than a non OD transmission. I had two young ones in their 20's pull the trans with OD out of the Harrington and it is tough since the tail shaft hangs up on the X frame due to the extra length. it's easier to remove the engine and trans and then make the swap.

 

[Thor 1211]

transmission replacement

I did it on my back, solo, and like gordonra spent a lot of time cussin' and crushing my fingers between the transmission and the floor.

I jacked my car up onto cinder blocks and 2x 12s and put jack stands under the front a arms.

I later found out about raising the rear end and that would make it a lot easier because then the loosened engine/tranny combination would be sitting level and the transmission much easier to slide off and back into place.

I'd say a foot and a half off the floor at the front and another foot higher in the rear would be ideal. As in the WSM you have to disconnect all the lines etc. It's a bit of work.

 

[Paul A]

I have pulled and reinstalled many engines and engine/transmissions over the past 35 years. I strongly recommend pulling the engine/tranny together. In the end it is much easier to work on things and much easier to reinstall. My 20 cents worth.

 

[DanR]

Good preparations for ......

Doing Hot Rods and other types of auto work since I began helping hand tools to my Dad around the age of ten has provided me with some valuable experience some of which was gained the "hard way" has made a believer out of me. Do it right and prepare for the worst.

As a recommendation, first get the car off the ground with adequate blockage (jack stands) that will withstand the weight of the vehicle. Make sure the ground or floor is solid, if not, make solid "before" you start raising the vehicle. Try to shake the car a bit to see if it is in fact on solid footing.

The height depends upon the room needed to work and the clearance needed to remove and replace the transmission. Prior comments have mentioned, the removal of the tranny and the engine as a unit, if so, more room/clearance will be required than a simple removal of the tranny.

I would highly recommend pulling both together. As Paul A has suggested it is much easier to take apart and "more accurately" done on the assembly if done out of the vehicle.

One of my High School Buddies that moved to Ft Worth, Tx after a stint in the USAF liked to build VW Dune Buggies. He is no more because one fell on him and crushed his chest. All because he had gotten carless with/without the Jack stands.

I can't place enough caution on being careful

And that is my 2cents worth.

 

[jumpinjan]

One man can do it, but usually two people work better

 

[Jay Laifman]

x5 here that it's easier to just pull the dang engine. You basically have to loosen or take off everything to be able to lower it out the back (though I do like the idea of raising the back only). Bench pressing that tranny back up and wiggling it until it slides in, all the while keeping it in line with the engine is really a task.

I've done it both ways multiple times.

 

[hartmandm]

A while ago I finished up replacing a standard gearbox with an overdrive gearbox on my series V. It can be done by a single person with a transmission jack fairly easily.

I've written up the process I followed. Hopefully, some folks will find something of value in the write up.
http://mhartman.net/files/sunbeam/OD gearbox installation.pdf

Mike

 

[Gitnrusty]

Trans swap

Great write up Mike.
Clearer than some shop manuals Ive read.

 

[DanR]

Suggestion....

Mike, Agreed it is a great write-up.... will help those to follow if they will follow what is written.

While reading I noticed on page 21 of 22 that you give instructions/comments on the re-install (carbs and Tee). Your PDF on the TEE you made will fit nicely here as a link for others also.

I received your Tee and am very pleased with the quality and workmanship.

It will be a great improvement for the Strombergs.

Thanks much,

DanR

P.S. Perhaps these PDF's could be added to the Forums Tech Date or Feature Articles Section??

 

[Chazbeam]

Perfected methods

After taking out my engine last week for the forth time i have gotten it down to 4 hours including a compleate engine tear down..yes its a pain in the ass but i have found it a lot easyer at least for me to take the engine off the tranns because my trans isxa w58 toyota...its a bit hard to get at the bolts at the firwall but as long as the wheels are straight the center rod is out of the way its just a wrentch and some patiance..
Puting it back together is a pain to line up the shaft into the clutch etc but a spin of the engine and it almost always drops in if i aligne the two up and insert long bolts in the holes..

Having one of those hoists woth the abulity to pitch angle the engine is the only way to go...

Chaz

 

[DanR]

......

I have jack stands, but was consider using ramps-- wheels on the car obviously--and putting jack stands on the rear axle- ramp plus wheel and tire height. I was also considered cutting out the center section of an old trailer.
!

I definitely see a "SAFETY PROBLEM" with the use of ramps under the front wheels and a set of jack stands under the rear wheels


WHAT IS TO KEEP THE CAR FOR ROLLING SHOULD THE JACKS GET TO BIT OF PRESSURE FROM EITHER THE FRONT OR REAR OF THE CAR?
Neither the park/emergency brake nor the car in gear will "HOLD".