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Enjoy.
I've used air before but I don't separate the halves of the caliper . You need to restrict the piston from hitting something else. I have a cone shaped rubber chuck for the air hose for things like this. The chuck is cheap at Harbor Freight.Air pressure works also.
Where did you find the fitting?I found a grease fitting that fits.
How about a piece of wood ? Just like we used on the Brembo stuff and there is a tool around that that expands to the inside of the piston to yank it out so to speak.I've used air before but I don't separate the halves of the caliper . You need to restrict the piston from hitting something else. I have a cone shaped rubber chuck for the air hose for things like this. The chuck is cheap at Harbor Freight.
Ditto. Air seems to have worked for me. I've not ever gone the grease route for calipers or crank pilot bearings, simply because I didn't want to deal with the mess. For pilot bearings I use a tappet puller... works great.I got every piston out in all the calipers I have rebuilt using compressed air. And I probably used heat like Mike Phillips suggested
Jan
I just use grease and hydraulic it. Not that big of a deal.On the contrary, I have removed pilot bushings using grease & an old input shaft way back years and years ago. But yes, now I also have & use an I.D. bushing puller.
On one occasion the bushing was so worn, I wrapped the input shaft with masking tape to get a tight fit in the bushing. And hit the shaft with a hammer and it came right out.
Jan
That worked great! Grease method got one out, seeing the condition of the piston (Rusty), split the caliper drilled & tapped a 3/8-16 bolt and jacked the piston out. Easy way to clean the grooves with a wire brush, lots of debris. Does anyone know why in the manual it is listed as a temporary fix when you split the caliper? They suggest they get sent back to the factory.....good luck with that. Thanks to all who respondedThe easy way in my neighborhood is to drill a hole in the piston and tap with a 3/8s tap then screw in a bolt and out she comes. By the way I have never taken apart a caliper that had useable pistons, always need new ones.
Does anyone know why in the manual it is listed as a temporary fix when you split the caliper? They suggest they get sent back to the factory.....
Al, It is in my opinion that proper torque is most critical when reassembling.
The small rubber "o" ring that has flat sides can be obtained from our SS & CS suppliers.
NOTE: There are 2 different specs for torque of the caliper body bolts so BEWARE, use the late series torque specs.
If you can't find them let me know and I will go hunt them up..... gott'em some where
Another suggestion is to take a small drill bit (carefully) clean the fluid passages in the caliper halves. They most always have crud that restricts.
I found some "new bolts" for my re-build to replace the old ones that showed too much deterioration on the heads.