I know this has been covered numerous times. Cylinder heads; I am starting to collect parts for my 2.8 build. Install Ford 2.9 valves or? What about installed heights for the high lift Jose cam, what springs and retainers? Mill the heads .030 to increase compression 1/2 point? Should I also send the Offenhauser manifold with the heads to have manifold milled also? Is there room for some type of positive oil seal on the valve guide top with the high lift cam? Pistons; buy the taller crown height piston from Summit? Is notching the pistons for valve clearance needed? I have two sets of heads, Mustang 11 and Ford Ranger. Probably use the Ranger short block with Mustang front. Either heads will work well? Recommendations for a shop that can the 2.8 head work (porting) This will be a good start, more questions to follow. Thank you in advance. Steve V. 2.8 In Arizona
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V6 Cylinder head review
- Thread starter mr.vman
- Start date
Hi Steve,
I recommend replacing the stock 2.8 valves for 2.9 V6 valves, but only if you intend on porting and polishing the heads. If you don't open up the ports all the way, the larger valves will not receive full benefit of full air flow.
You can run stock 2.9 valve stem heights, as the cam, although it will have near .500 lift, they will not interfere with the cam action.
I recommend using stock 2.9 V6 springs and retainers. They are good to 7,000 rpm, which is where I recommend redlining the little V6.
I recommend milling the heads a max of .030", because the extra 1/2 point will make a difference in performance, but will still be able to use regular gas. I think stock pistons are just fine, but if you want more compressing, I recommend not going over 9.5 to 1 compression. I always ran stock pistons in all the non power adder engines I built, but if you go with a power adder (blower, turbo, or nitrous), you'll need forged pistons.
You won't need to notch the pistons for valve clearance, since this is not an interference engine. I would still clay the valves to make sure you will have at least .100" clearance.
Either set of heads will work. If the Mutt II heads are from 1974, tthen they would be the preffered set.
I used to recommend a guy in Tacomc, WA., but he takes a long time to turn them around.
If you have anymore questions, please drop me an email and I'll be happy to answer them
I recommend replacing the stock 2.8 valves for 2.9 V6 valves, but only if you intend on porting and polishing the heads. If you don't open up the ports all the way, the larger valves will not receive full benefit of full air flow.
You can run stock 2.9 valve stem heights, as the cam, although it will have near .500 lift, they will not interfere with the cam action.
I recommend using stock 2.9 V6 springs and retainers. They are good to 7,000 rpm, which is where I recommend redlining the little V6.
I recommend milling the heads a max of .030", because the extra 1/2 point will make a difference in performance, but will still be able to use regular gas. I think stock pistons are just fine, but if you want more compressing, I recommend not going over 9.5 to 1 compression. I always ran stock pistons in all the non power adder engines I built, but if you go with a power adder (blower, turbo, or nitrous), you'll need forged pistons.
You won't need to notch the pistons for valve clearance, since this is not an interference engine. I would still clay the valves to make sure you will have at least .100" clearance.
Either set of heads will work. If the Mutt II heads are from 1974, tthen they would be the preffered set.
I used to recommend a guy in Tacomc, WA., but he takes a long time to turn them around.
If you have anymore questions, please drop me an email and I'll be happy to answer them
Jose,
Good information, what I am looking for. Valve springs, stock off the shelf springs will work? I will probably want to take , .030" off the fire face of the heads. I would assume the intake manifold will need to be angle milled? My plan is to send the heads off for the entire operation, port matching, porting, big valves, polished combustion chamber. Where to send them? I am in Arizona.
Thank you, Steve V.
Good information, what I am looking for. Valve springs, stock off the shelf springs will work? I will probably want to take , .030" off the fire face of the heads. I would assume the intake manifold will need to be angle milled? My plan is to send the heads off for the entire operation, port matching, porting, big valves, polished combustion chamber. Where to send them? I am in Arizona.
Thank you, Steve V.
More good information, this is where I become concerned. Zero deck the block to pistons and .030" off the head fire face? I hope to build a strong engine, will go the porting route once a source is found. Intake manifold angles become an issue if there is more than .040" removed? I assume combined deck and fire face of head? What about the Ford Pinto 2.3 valves? Or some other four cylinder Ford for valves? Stick with the 2.9? Once the information is resolved I will start collecting parts. Have the intake manifold, and Mustang 11 bell- housing. Also a T5 Transmission out of a 92 Mustang V6, that is another post to come on the T5.
Steve V. In Arizona
Steve V. In Arizona
260Alpine
Silver Level Sponsor
Steve, I would think one or the other. I don't know how much you would deck the block to get zero deck. To keep it simple lets say it is .030. So if you milled the heads .030 that would be the same as .060. Then I would mill .030 on each head, intake side.(not angle milled) You would have to check valve clearance too. Compression would be too high for pump gas. It is better to zero deck for quench/efficiency than simple head mill. We are only talking a few HP difference though. If you do zero deck I would still skim the heads .010 to ensure they are flat.
Hi Steve,
I would not recommend zero decking the pistons. You should have the intake manifold milled to match the milling of the heads. If you don't, you will have vacuum leak problems and possibly water leaks. too.
Pocket porting will do very little for power production, because you will have a restricted port above the port, which will not let the larger valves flow to their full potential. You need a full port job, or don't bother.
If you begin to deck the block and the heads too, you may end up with too much compression, and that ain't good. If you want to talk to someone who has done all of that, looking to get max power, and wishes he'd gone with the proven procedure, just drop me an email and I will give you his info and you can ask him. He now is thinking to build a milder piston-block combination.
Stock Ford springs from your nearest Ford dealer will work just fine. Retainers too. I wouldn't go with tubular push rods either, as the stock push rods are pretty light already.
I will be back in the states in August and will begin looking for a good head porting service that can do your heads complete. You will be looking at about $1,200 for a complete job. I would also send in your intake manifold so they can mill it and match the ports at the same time.
I would not recommend zero decking the pistons. You should have the intake manifold milled to match the milling of the heads. If you don't, you will have vacuum leak problems and possibly water leaks. too.
Pocket porting will do very little for power production, because you will have a restricted port above the port, which will not let the larger valves flow to their full potential. You need a full port job, or don't bother.
If you begin to deck the block and the heads too, you may end up with too much compression, and that ain't good. If you want to talk to someone who has done all of that, looking to get max power, and wishes he'd gone with the proven procedure, just drop me an email and I will give you his info and you can ask him. He now is thinking to build a milder piston-block combination.
Stock Ford springs from your nearest Ford dealer will work just fine. Retainers too. I wouldn't go with tubular push rods either, as the stock push rods are pretty light already.
I will be back in the states in August and will begin looking for a good head porting service that can do your heads complete. You will be looking at about $1,200 for a complete job. I would also send in your intake manifold so they can mill it and match the ports at the same time.
DanR
Diamond Level Sponsor
I'd stick with the 2.9 valves.
Send me your E-mail address and I will get you some additional info.
DanR
Imperialist1960
Donation Time
Intake Manifold & decking & so forth
Maybe I have the wrong machine shop on payroll, but when I took the engine/heads/intake into them and showed them the setup, they quivered and quickly declined to do any milling of anything.
Change where the intake ports land in the V by shaving the heads or decking the block, and now the intake manifold doesn't line up properly and you have to start doing some serious calculations about how much to take off.
I seem to recall my machinist being repelled by the idea and saying that getting the intake lined up properly would become very difficult and besides he did not have the tooling to mill the intake down, although I recall that Sven's book did talk about it in some detail.
The 2.9 valves seemed like a good idea and were an easy fit by comparison.
If you decide to increase compression anywhere but the piston, be sure that you have plan C for milling the intake manifold FIRST, because figuring that out after you have committed may be harder than it looks at first glance.
Maybe I have the wrong machine shop on payroll, but when I took the engine/heads/intake into them and showed them the setup, they quivered and quickly declined to do any milling of anything.
Change where the intake ports land in the V by shaving the heads or decking the block, and now the intake manifold doesn't line up properly and you have to start doing some serious calculations about how much to take off.
I seem to recall my machinist being repelled by the idea and saying that getting the intake lined up properly would become very difficult and besides he did not have the tooling to mill the intake down, although I recall that Sven's book did talk about it in some detail.
The 2.9 valves seemed like a good idea and were an easy fit by comparison.
If you decide to increase compression anywhere but the piston, be sure that you have plan C for milling the intake manifold FIRST, because figuring that out after you have committed may be harder than it looks at first glance.
Hi Steve,
Rich Gordon knows of a shop in Orange coun ty that has done his hjeads, and he's very happy with tje results. Contact him on this forum.
Rich Gordon knows of a shop in Orange coun ty that has done his hjeads, and he's very happy with tje results. Contact him on this forum.
Thanks Dan.
Steve, Rich said to send him an email from the forum, and he will get you the information you need
Steve, Rich said to send him an email from the forum, and he will get you the information you need
Last edited:
Mike Armstrong
Bronze Level Sponsor
Rich and 'at least' one other member here that I know of have brought their heads to this guy. He does a complete port and polishing of the heads, including installing the 2.9 valves so that the heads are bolt on ready when he's done.
If I ever go that route with a set of heads, that's the guy I'm going to.
Hi Steve,
Here is the porting info you requested.
Bob Mckray Performance
25672 Taladro Cir
Mission Viejo, CA 92691
(949) 458-7087
He has done a couple of sets of heads for some of my friends. They are happy with his work. He has a flow bench to help him get the max out of them. he also can supply the valves, retainers, locks and springs, if you desire.
Here is the porting info you requested.
Bob Mckray Performance
25672 Taladro Cir
Mission Viejo, CA 92691
(949) 458-7087
He has done a couple of sets of heads for some of my friends. They are happy with his work. He has a flow bench to help him get the max out of them. he also can supply the valves, retainers, locks and springs, if you desire.
Contacted BoB McKray on head work, knowledgeable and has been doing the, 2.8 heads for some time. Told me he had templates for the work. Question now is. I have a set of 80's Ford Ranger heads that checked good. Have a Mustang 2 engine also. Is there any difference between the Mustang 2 and Ranger heads? They both have smog holes in ports. The Ranger heads seem "thin" on the fire face to "mill" .030 inch off. Just port (larger valves), buy the tall pistons from Summit, Jose cam, balance, Offenhauser intake, steel timing gears, high volume oil pump and should be good to go? Or add? Thank you for the information. Steve V.