X frame repair sections.

[Matthew.Rogerson]

i do have one question, does anyone know if the x-frame is open from above if accessed through the floor.? I am considering cutting access holes to wire brush out, and rust treat the interior prior to welding in the repair sections

 

[belmateo]

I will be cutting up a parts car soon with a good frame and will let you know.

 

[Mike O'D]

The X frame is a U channel that is welded to the floor. If you remove the floor, then yes, it is open on the top.

 

[Scotty]

i do have one question, does anyone know if the x-frame is open from above if accessed through the floor.? I am considering cutting access holes to wire brush out, and rust treat the interior prior to welding in the repair sections

Cutting holes in otherwise perfectly good floor pans scare the f-k out of me. I’m a weirdo, if I had a thought like that, I’d probably drill a few holes in the floor pan and flood the inside of the frame with something like Ospho and then some sort of lanolin based product and then cover the holes with rubber plugs so I can do the above again down the road.

 

[Matthew.Rogerson]

Cutting holes in otherwise perfectly good floor pans scare the f-k out of me. I’m a weirdo, if I had a thought like that, I’d probably drill a few holes in the floor pan and flood the inside of the frame with something like Ospho and then some sort of lanolin based product and then cover the holes with rubber plugs so I can do the above again down the road.

I neglected to mention that upon further inspection I’ve discovered that the floor is a disaster, so will also be getting replaced. Well disguised horrible work under layers of goop. It actually looks like the previous owner may have filled the x frame with concrete.

 

[Scotty]

I neglected to mention that upon further inspection I’ve discovered that the floor is a disaster, so will also be getting replaced. Well disguised horrible work under layers of goop. It actually looks like the previous owner may have filled the x frame with concrete.

Dear God... I'm sorry to hear that. Actual concrete? The heck were they thinking?

 

[belmateo]

You can't fix stupid

 

[Matthew.Rogerson]

You can't fix stupid

I’m gonna try!

 

[belmateo]

Wish you luck sir.

 

[DanR]

Here are a few PIC's of my new panels I have just received from my Draftsman/Engineer/Laser Buddy . They made me two of each for the Driver's side (left hand) for test fitting. The ones for the Passenger side (right hand) will be ready this week coming.

In the 1st PIC I have two of the panels that are the same. The single "new" one is a duplicate of the one in shown in the 2nd & 3rd PICs.

The 4th shows the two pieces for the Driver's side (left hand) panels being fitted.

I made the panels so that they could be used to replace all of the original metal as needed. In my case I have had to trim and cut openings as needed.

The panels being shown are for the left hand side.

There is also a "plate" to replace the center one that covers where the "X" comes together.

These panels were design so that the Exhaust thru could be made for the Alpine or Tiger as needed. In my case, the Green1 will be formed to allow for dual exhaust utilizing the original exhaust hole and adding another exact opposite.

 

[sunalp]

They look great Dan!

 

[Chad]

The X frame is a U channel that is welded to the floor. If you remove the floor, then yes, it is open on the top.

Hmm, not mine.

Was just coming here to see if anybody knew how the top plate was attached. I wire-wheeled the top surface hoping to see the spot weld dimples if present, but with the rough surface, no luck.

I see some edge seam stitch welds, but it doesn’t seem likely that’s all that’s holding the arm together.

It’s worth noting there were extensive repairs by “some other guy”, featuring lots of angle iron, an upside down kingpost truss under one rocker, galvanized roof tin, repurposed steel from other car bodies, and lots of rivets. It’s possible these X-arm top plates were added, but I’ve found them under original, unpatched floor so it seems unlikely.

 

[Matthew.Rogerson]

Hmm, not mine.

Was just coming here to see if anybody knew how the top plate was attached. I wire-wheeled the top surface hoping to see the spot weld dimples if present, but with the rough surface, no luck.

I see some edge seam stitch welds, but it doesn’t seem likely that’s all that’s holding the arm together.

It’s worth noting there were extensive repairs by “some other guy”, featuring lots of angle iron, an upside down kingpost truss under one rocker, galvanized roof tin, repurposed steel from other car bodies, and lots of rivets. It’s possible these X-arm top plates were added, but I’ve found them under original, unpatched floor so it seems unlikely.

Hi, my floor looks the same. They appear factory. I am about to wire wheel so will post any apparent weld indicators if found.

 

[DanR]

it’s possible these X-arm top plates were added,

They are originals. But, the plate(s) you see were not totally covering the "x" frame, you will find some spacing along the various frame area.

Another point, the "X" frame in fact consist mainly of two halves spot welded together. The very bottom of the frame, if under carefull examination you will find the spot welds where the two halves were put together. In my POSTs #15, 16 & 17 above you can see clearly where I drilled out the spot welds inorder to seperate the havles to have them chem dipped and utilized as patterns for the "new" ones I am having laser cut and bent.

 

[Chad]

Thanks Matthew and Dan.

It seemed like the path of least resistance would be to remove these top plates, sandblast the frame arm interiors, mend/patch as needed/revealed, then add the plates back on. I’ll see how I get along, tomorrow!

 

[DanR]

i do have one question, does anyone know if the x-frame is open from above if accessed through the floor.? I am considering cutting access holes to wire brush out, and rust treat the interior prior to welding in the repair sections

Matt, The "X" frame is not open in the area where the frame and floor meet. Some of the floor when removed will allow access to "other" portions of the undercarriage that can be treated more easily, but you will have to remove the plates at least in part for access to the inside of the "X" frame area.

AS an added note: BEWARE of some structural removal without prior strengthening by braces to the door openings (See my PIC's in prior POST).

 

[Chad]

AS an aadded note: BEWARE of some structural removal without prior strengthening by braces to the door openings (See my PIC's in prior POST).

You mean like before almost completely removing the inner, middle, and outer rocker? ;-)

 

[sunalp]

I happen to have a complete ( or mostly complete) Series IV center section with a rust free X frame
and all of the attachments . Happy to take some pictures of it if it'll help.

 

[DanR]

before almost completely removing the inner, middle, and outer rocker

Yes, Before! In the stage you are at presently, it appears the structure will easily be out of form and if you replace any or all of the undercarriage without aligning the doors and the other areas that "must" line up such and the hard top to the trunk hinges, windshield to soft top, you may have a disaster on your hands

 

[Chad]

I happen to have a complete ( or mostly complete) Series IV center section with a rust free X frame
and all of the attachments . Happy to take some pictures of it if it'll help.

For as bad as mine looks, I’m only planning to keep the middle 25” of it. The leaked-oil path down the center has preserved most of that.

I just had some full length 2x3 frame rails bent that will replace the partial ones at the front and the spring arches at the back, allowing me to trim away the rotten ends of the X.