Windshield and triangular door window alignment.

[beijing_ken]

Hi All,

I am in the process of re-installing my windshield and the triangular side windows in the doors and hoping to get some advice/tips on setting them set up so that they align properly.

I do have the two adjusting nuts for the windshield frame put I am not 100% sure how they work as the fall through the stud holes. I realize that they thread onto the studs, but if they don't sit on the body, then how do they work ?

In addition, what are people using as between the drip molding and the piece of molding riveted to the windshield frame ? Mine has some very old, dry and black sealer.

Thanks in advance.

Ken

PS - it is a series IV if that makes a difference.

 

[absunbeam]

The studs on the windscreen have to have a die ran over them to add thread length.

I believe that a hex is on the bottom of the window stud adjuster. Had to modify a 1/4” drive deepwell 7/16” socket OD to fit in the bushing to turn the adjuster. Dan Richardson may have an instruction sheet since he has some sets made.

I used strip caulk to replace the black dried out sealant.

Other issue is getting the rubber on the bottom of the frame to stay flat to the body by the dash. Had mine out a couple of times to get it right. The Cat site has an extensive write up on that, good source also.

Good luck

Al

 

[alpine_64]

Hi All,

I am in the process of re-installing my windshield and the triangular side windows in the doors and hoping to get some advice/tips on setting them set up so that they align properly.

I do have the two adjusting nuts for the windshield frame put I am not 100% sure how they work as the fall through the stud holes. I realize that they thread onto the studs, but if they don't sit on the body, then how do they work ?

In addition, what are people using as between the drip molding and the piece of molding riveted to the windshield frame ? Mine has some very old, dry and black sealer.

Thanks in advance.

Ken

PS - it is a series IV if that makes a difference.

Hey Ken,

I would contact DanR for advice

On the other issues for the screen.. Make sure you have a good quality mastic tape (caulking cord) to fit at the screen to body.

Also are you fitting a new dash pad? Getting them fitting right at the screen edge often requires trimming/ sanding down the foam to ensure the screen frame sits right.

Are you still working in your forum handles namesake or moved back?

 

[Tim R]

There are a series of videos on The Sunbeam Alpine Channel that cover fitting the windscreen, the roll top, quarter lights etc etc. Some of that information will be useful to you.

Tim R

 

[DanR]

Here's an answer to Ken's question. Hope it helps because I have no better explanation for the nuts.

Click on the link and you will be asked to open. Works for me.

Merry Christmas and a Happy Healthy, and Prosperous New Year to All,

DanR

P.S. I have plenty of the windshield adjustment nuts available

 

[beijing_ken]

Hey Ken,

I would contact DanR for advice

On the other issues for the screen.. Make sure you have a good quality mastic tape (caulking cord) to fit at the screen to body.

Also are you fitting a new dash pad? Getting them fitting right at the screen edge often requires trimming/ sanding down the foam to ensure the screen frame sits right.

Are you still working in your forum handles namesake or moved back?

COVID kind of killed my career in China, that and my parent's health is declining rapidly, so it seemed the right time to return home to Canada.

Plus, I have to get the Sunbeam completed ! ;-p

 

[beijing_ken]

There are a series of videos on The Sunbeam Alpine Channel that cover fitting the windscreen, the roll top, quarter lights etc etc. Some of that information will be useful to you.

Tim R

Thank you, I will look into this.

 

[beijing_ken]

The studs on the windscreen have to have a die ran over them to add thread length.

I believe that a hex is on the bottom of the window stud adjuster. Had to modify a 1/4” drive deepwell 7/16” socket OD to fit in the bushing to turn the adjuster. Dan Richardson may have an instruction sheet since he has some sets made.

I used strip caulk to replace the black dried out sealant.

Other issue is getting the rubber on the bottom of the frame to stay flat to the body by the dash. Had mine out a couple of times to get it right. The Cat site has an extensive write up on that, good source also.

Good luck

Al

Thank you for the tips !

 

[beijing_ken]

Here's an answer to Ken's question. Hope it helps because I have no better explanation for the nuts.

Click on the link and you will be asked to open. Works for me.

Merry Christmas and a Happy Healthy, and Prosperous New Year to All,

DanR

P.S. I have plenty of the windshield adjustment nuts available

Thanks Dan,

I have sent you a message to your personal email address.

 

[Beamin]

Ken - I just completed this task a week ago. I also had a set of DanR’s adjustable nuts. Some of the things I learned:

-Chase all the threads on the window frame with a die to clean up the threads
-Install the adjusters on the rear-most studs, hex head facing down. Screw them all the way on to start with. I had an issue with the adjusters pulling through the holes in the body so I added a washer over them
-This job can be done with the dash in place, but it is well worth the extra time to remove it. The stud locations are really tucked up in there, and trying to insert yourself upside down while snaking your hands through all the wiring just isn’t worth it.
-Install the 1/4 windows loosely and adjust the front-to-rear rake of the windshield to the angle of the 1/4 windows. Once the windshield is properly located, adjust the side-to-side angle of the quarter windows to the windshield
-Snug down the center front stud on the windshield frame first, then start checking the angle with the 1/4 windows. I couldn’t get a socket through the hole in the body to get ahold of the adjusters, but I was able to tilt the frame forward enough to expose the adjusters above the body so that I could get a pair of needle nose pliers on them to make adjustments. Once the angle is close, start snugging down the remaining studs a little at a time, checking the angle often. It was an iterative process. As I started tightening the remaining studs, the angle changed a bit, so I’d have to loosen things up a bit, tilt the frame up enough to adjust the nuts, then tighten things up again.
-Keep an eye on the frame to body gasket as you go to make sure it stays in the proper position. Mine had a tendency to want to shift forward.

Not sure if my process is the “correct” method, but it worked well and everything lines up quite nicely. It was very frustrating at first, but once I convinced myself to remove the dash which I had just installed a month earlier, it wasn’t bad at all.

Andy

 

[Tim R]

My top tip for doing this job is to make sure that you have full movement of the quarter lights in the doors. If you can't adjust these to make them seal tight against the rubbers on the windscreen you will certainly have leaks when it rains. If the captive nuts are shot (which they are about 50% of the time) I recommend that you do the modification shown in this video.
Tim R

 

[beijing_ken]

Ken - I just completed this task a week ago. I also had a set of DanR’s adjustable nuts. Some of the things I learned:

-Chase all the threads on the window frame with a die to clean up the threads
-Install the adjusters on the rear-most studs, hex head facing down. Screw them all the way on to start with. I had an issue with the adjusters pulling through the holes in the body so I added a washer over them
-This job can be done with the dash in place, but it is well worth the extra time to remove it. The stud locations are really tucked up in there, and trying to insert yourself upside down while snaking your hands through all the wiring just isn’t worth it.
-Install the 1/4 windows loosely and adjust the front-to-rear rake of the windshield to the angle of the 1/4 windows. Once the windshield is properly located, adjust the side-to-side angle of the quarter windows to the windshield
-Snug down the center front stud on the windshield frame first, then start checking the angle with the 1/4 windows. I couldn’t get a socket through the hole in the body to get ahold of the adjusters, but I was able to tilt the frame forward enough to expose the adjusters above the body so that I could get a pair of needle nose pliers on them to make adjustments. Once the angle is close, start snugging down the remaining studs a little at a time, checking the angle often. It was an iterative process. As I started tightening the remaining studs, the angle changed a bit, so I’d have to loosen things up a bit, tilt the frame up enough to adjust the nuts, then tighten things up again.
-Keep an eye on the frame to body gasket as you go to make sure it stays in the proper position. Mine had a tendency to want to shift forward.

Not sure if my process is the “correct” method, but it worked well and everything lines up quite nicely. It was very frustrating at first, but once I convinced myself to remove the dash which I had just installed a month earlier, it wasn’t bad at all.

Andy

Thank you very much and quite detailed !

Much appreciated !!