Ron67Alpine
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Enjoy.
Water from exhaust
- Thread starter Ron67Alpine
- Start date
Tranny should get 30 "weight" oil. See Jan's post about halfway down:
http://www.sunbeamalpine.org/forum/showthread.php?t=12547
Tom
http://www.sunbeamalpine.org/forum/showthread.php?t=12547
Tom
Nickodell
Donation Time
The amount is insignificant in comparison with the gallon of water produced per gallon of gasoline. A catalytic converter does three things:
Reduction of nitrogen oxides to nitrogen and oxygen: 2NOx → xO2 + N2
Oxidation of carbon monoxide to carbon dioxide: 2CO + O2 → 2CO2
Oxidation of unburnt hydrocarbons (HC) to carbon dioxide and water: CxH2x+2 + 2xO2 → xCO2 + 2xH2O
The tiny amount of unburnt fuel (hydrocarbons) in a reasonably modern engine produces in turn a teeny amount of water.
Ron67Alpine
Silver Level Sponsor
Thanks for the reply, Tom.
This is the thread, I referenced about the 20W50.
http://www.sunbeamalpine.org/forum/showthread.php?t=6412&highlight=transmission+lube
husky drvr
Platinum Level Sponsor
Or maybe the thrust bearings at the center main journal?
Jim E
Donation Time
Yes #3 tends to spin a little more often than the others. Don is right the thrust washers are in the same area. Not saying it is either of those things would not think it would take long for the motor to let go if it is either and it is giving warning noises.
Usually with a spun rod bearing that has not locked the motor up they pound or clank when running and for me it is easest to hear at low RPM or idle when things are quiet then if I hear that noise I do not rap the motor up.
The thrust washer I guess could make a noise or if the thrust washer is gone the crank eatting the block would make a noise. Usually the thrust washer issue is pretty easy to figure ouot, at idle press the clutch to the floor and look at the oil pressure, if the pressure drops and the car tries to die it is a sign. There is also the look at the lower pulley for front to rear movement at idle while pressing the clutch.
Not sure how long the motor has been making the noise or if you have much run time on it but if it is a bearing problem it is not going to get better.
Actually my first thoughts were the rubber timing chain tentioner had gone to pieces but would think the noise would be more at the front of the engine
Usually with a spun rod bearing that has not locked the motor up they pound or clank when running and for me it is easest to hear at low RPM or idle when things are quiet then if I hear that noise I do not rap the motor up.
The thrust washer I guess could make a noise or if the thrust washer is gone the crank eatting the block would make a noise. Usually the thrust washer issue is pretty easy to figure ouot, at idle press the clutch to the floor and look at the oil pressure, if the pressure drops and the car tries to die it is a sign. There is also the look at the lower pulley for front to rear movement at idle while pressing the clutch.
Not sure how long the motor has been making the noise or if you have much run time on it but if it is a bearing problem it is not going to get better.
Actually my first thoughts were the rubber timing chain tentioner had gone to pieces but would think the noise would be more at the front of the engine
Nickodell
Donation Time
I've just remembered that I got exactly that screeching sound on my MGTD back in the early 1960s, and it turned out to be a spun rear main bearing. What made it a puzzle was that the OP stayed right up there, and I only identified it when the screech turned into a regular thumping. I used a stethoscope to zero in on where the noise was coming from, and after that it was a no-brainer to drop the pan and check for metal. Then out with the engine, turn the crank to remove ovality and new bearings.
The MG club forum had the answer about the OP. The oil pumps were purposely over-engineered because so many of the engines were raced, and even supercharged, that they could maintain the pressure even with quite worn bearings.
The MG club forum had the answer about the OP. The oil pumps were purposely over-engineered because so many of the engines were raced, and even supercharged, that they could maintain the pressure even with quite worn bearings.
Ron67Alpine
Silver Level Sponsor
Thanks guys, I really appriciate the diagnostic help. Since I'm having so much trouble discribing the noise I'm hearing, I've made a video. It starts around 3000-3200rpm.
Whatever it is, it's starting to sound like major problems.
Oh, BTW, I changed trans oil w/30W
Whatever it is, it's starting to sound like major problems.
Oh, BTW, I changed trans oil w/30W
Ron67Alpine
Silver Level Sponsor
Sorry Beam, I just saw your comment. If the CD is in backwards, I wouldn't know about it, since other than the clutch slave, I haven't done anything w/the clutch.
Thanks for the thought.
Chuck Ingram
Donation Time
I think it was mentioned before but I would look at the alternator and or generator Bushings can be not good and need replacing.Also if the fan/pulley on the alternator is slightly bent high RPMs will with tightning of the belt at speed cause the pulley to move in and rub the housing.This sounds more like the noise in your video
Ron67Alpine
Silver Level Sponsor
Thanks for the replies, Nick and Chuck. As I mentioned before, the water pump was making noise, before, it started peeing all over the garage. I replaced it w/a new steel pump from Classic Sunbeam as well as a new alternator. I also heard the noise at least once, when I had the alt and WP removed while waiting for replacements. I know this sounds like one of the above but I'm really sure it's not. I also doubt that it is the alternator pulley because I've been hearing it w/2 different alternators. Those generally make noises on start-up, because of resistance of the alternator, on the belt while it's rpm's are trying to catch up w/the spinning of the engine, not @ 3000rpm. Water pump, alternator and belts were the first things I thought of and wouldn't be bring this up to the forum, if it was as simple as that. I guess the next time I start her up I can make absolutely sure it's not coming from the front, (bent engine mount?) but right now, I'm pretty sure it's not.
Again, thanks for the help,
Ron
Again, thanks for the help,
Ron
Chuck Ingram
Donation Time
Ron
Have you checked out the distributor as the bushings could possibly be the cause as well.You have ruled out the fan and alternator when you ran the engine with no belt.If you had it all hooked up it could have been a belt that got a bit polished.
One other thing I would look at is the inspection plate on the bell housing just to eliminate a possible source.
The noise certainly sounds like bushings or metal rubbing somewhere.
Sorry I can't be more of a help
Have you checked out the distributor as the bushings could possibly be the cause as well.You have ruled out the fan and alternator when you ran the engine with no belt.If you had it all hooked up it could have been a belt that got a bit polished.
One other thing I would look at is the inspection plate on the bell housing just to eliminate a possible source.
The noise certainly sounds like bushings or metal rubbing somewhere.
Sorry I can't be more of a help
Ron67Alpine
Silver Level Sponsor
Again, thanks for the reply, Chuck, this is a different theory.
The distributor bushings is not something I would have considered. I have noticed quite a bit of "bounce" when strobing the timing mark. How would I go about verifying it? Replacing the distributor would certainly be easier than rebuilding the engine. What could I find by looking at the inspection plate? Something I forgot to mention. I'm pretty sure I didn't notice any metal shavings in the 10+yr old oil I originally drained out. I realize I won't be able to really varify this, until I remove the oil pan, but may be an indication of nothing really bad going on inside the engine.Ron
Oh BTW, SUCCESS, of a sort. I drove her around the block, today.
Brakes still need a lot of bleeding. I didn't have much braking ability But got her into second, and didn't have any trouble w/shifting and didn't notice any clutch slip. Chuck Ingram
Donation Time
Ron
Re inspection plate.I mention that just in case it was bent and possibly rubbing against the flywheel.
Re inspection plate.I mention that just in case it was bent and possibly rubbing against the flywheel.
Ron67Alpine
Silver Level Sponsor
Oh, OK, that's what I thought you meant, Chuck, but that idea may be moot.
I was just in the garage, idling the car. I had her up to over 5Krpm before the screaching started. Is it possible, that it's just a matter of running it, to get oil to all the old parts, that have been dry for 10+yrs?
BTW what's redline on these motors?
Thanks again
Ron
Nickodell
Donation Time
Until the engine blows, then back it off 500rpm.
Seriously, it depends how much prep. the engine has had - balancing etc. The redline on the SV tach begins at 6000. I imagine the three-mains (1500, 1600) would be lower. In any event, running at or near redline will shorten the engine's life.
Ron67Alpine
Silver Level Sponsor
Until the engine blows, then back it off 500rpm.
Seriously, it depends how much prep. the engine has had - balancing etc. The redline on the SV tach begins at 6000. I imagine the three-mains (1500, 1600) would be lower. In any event, running at or near redline will shorten the engine's life.
Thanks Nick, I would imagine the engine is a stock 1725. The only reason I was up that high, was because I didn't get the screeching @3K so I moved it up until I did hear it. I'm sure I won't be running it that high.