want to build mine up

[mschoonmaker]

I have a stock 67 alpine, in 2 weeks I start tearing it down to parade rest.
what I want to do is build something I can race, drive daily, and maintain some sort of stock appearance in the interior so I dont get totaly ignored at car shows. Ext will have an LAT hood and trying to figure out the 6" rims and tire combo too. Of course the roll bar and belts gotta go in.
I have already purchased a bunch of parts but have not spent anything on drive train yet. Am looking at trying to get it in the vintage race at Sebring next year but dont know how to go about it. Has anyone got a setup sheet (and like a parts list with suppliers) for sebring that was competative in recent years ??
I might even be interested in purchasing a drop in engine, one with a couple thousand horse power that I can just thrash at the track and not worry about my original motor pooping on me. When I raced Legends cars I had a habit of ignoring that shift point light when the elbow rubbing started ( I DO NOT WANT TO TRADE ANY PAINT with my alpine, It was my 1st car)


I am all ears, all suggestions greatly appreciated. All of you can be my sponsor (and I wont make you pay a dime,*see note)
Thanks ,
Mike

* note: If you really want to send sponsor money Ill gladly spend it, LOL

 

[sunbeam74]

Mike,

Most likely you are looking at the HSR event held in December

http://www.hsrrace.com/

Or there are others but you need to look up the organizing bodies website and review their requirements.

Carl Christiansen, who passed away not too long ago, used Huffaker to build his engines. Eventually, he built them himself but they had some pretty radical modifications.

Here's my recommendation IF you are rebuilding your engine:
1) Use the Chevy rod modification
2) Have Venolia make your pistons
3) Have Delta Cams do your cam/lifters/rockers
4) Isky springs - you might even want to use their pushrods
5) MGB pressure plate (need roller bearing throwout)
6) Run the Downdraft Zeniths OR go to side draft webers

Hand work I would:
1) Lighten the Flywheel
2) Head port, polish, do the vizzard modification and a quality multiangle valve grind
3) lighten your rockers (you could consider Titanium retainers but I don't know of any that readily fit. Otherwise you can cut the lower half of the steel
retainer off and remove some weight. You could also cut down your lifters by a 1/3. Not much gain but it was very common in the 60's to do this to the race car. Money would be better spent
on the titainium)


Suspension:
1) Koni's front and rear
2) 7/8 sway bar
3) Dearch the rear springs
4) Shorter front springs - but not too short!
5) New bushings throughout

Tires:
It goes without saying but run the stickiest tires allowed. Some groups make you run the Dunlop or Goodyear hard compounds. These will cost you in time and $ but they are a requirement for some groups.
I run them - even when I am running in a group that will allow Hoosiers/Kuhmos/Avons... but usually I have to run the hard compound bia-plys.

Cooling:
Oil cooler - the tube will work OK but a 13 row from Moss would be better.
Radiator - recore and go with a lower fin count

Exhaust:
Header - BTW, Bill A. was selling some very nice headers

Differential:
You might see if Mike Broome, in England, can get you set up with one of the limited slips he had made. It wouldn't be cheap but it is a definite advantage.

Steve

 

[Eleven]

Modern Parts

My only input is to carefully read the rules of what ever club you will be racing under. Some are very particular for historical accuracy. For example, mine, SOVREN in Washington, compares your car to the year SCCA GCR in ran under. So, if you show up with webers and not Solex, out you go. Same with other than Rootes rockers, etc. Most clubs are different, just check. Oh, have a blast!!!

 

[sunbeam74]

It's funny you mention the rockers. Many clubs have just starting to allow roller rockers/roller followers - VSCDA, SVRA and others. If I understand correctly, the oil formulation has changed recently affecting the extream pressure additive. I didn't realize it was such a problem but it appears to be serious for the cars running more radical cams.

It certainly is best to ask. If you follow the list above you should be fine with the downdraft Zeniths as carburation - the SCCA GCR's from 1960-on allowed the down draft Zeniths. I believe that the SVRA and HSR would allow the Webers - I don't know if they would put any conditions on your car or classification but it is worth asking.

Steve

 

[atallamcs]

Race Car

I think the suggestion to read the rules makes the most sense. It appears each club has their own variations--why they do not standardize is beyond me.

I have found so many differences that I will publish a book in the future on How to Build a Vintage Sports Race Car--one section is dedicated to the club variances.

My car will be finished in the next month--took a financial break--now back on track--soon race track. Here are a few pictures.

http://rides.webshots.com/album/549351959eDGMeT

Bill Atalla

 

[sunbeam74]

BTW< the 1965 SCCA Production car specifications for the Alpine is posted on the main SAOCA website:

http://www.saoca.org/technical/Misc_mag_papers/SCCA_Alpine_1965.pdf

In the day... this is how the Alpine should be configured.


Steve

 

[tfctpa]

Bill,

Again what beautiful work! I always love the pictures of your mastery.

 

[atallamcs]

Race Car

Thanks Tom,

Appreciate the comment. I have seen so many great efforts lately. Seems the bar has been raised when it comes to restoring our favorites--Sunbeams.
Bill

 

[mschoonmaker]

Bill,
What size wheels and tires are those on yer toy ??? I would like to try a 14" x 6" with 3" backspace ( am I headng in the right direction ???) oh then I gotta find a tire too. ahhhh

 

[atallamcs]

race prep

Hi there,
I think you are heading in two directions--a race car but can still be driven on the street. That is a tough one--as a car really set up for racing will be an awful driver, stiff, unforgiving. As for the wheels--mine are for track only and they say that on the rim--for an alpine most clubs want max 13x6. For the street I run on my other alpines 14x6, my tiger 15x6 and 15x7.

Best,

Bill

 

[Jay Laifman]

I see you have your blow pipe rigged up to the oil inlet. I seem to recall Jarrid commenting that this is not a good idea for the engine. Other than that, it's a very nice pipe you have for it!