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V6 slave adjust
- Thread starter sd_pace
- Start date
Barry
Diamond Level Sponsor
A hydraulic slave cylinder is just another kind of "linkage" to disengage the clutch.
Something around 1" of "free pedal" is probably about right. Anything less than 1/2" of "free pedal" is probably not enough. Anything more than 1-1/2" of "free pedal" is probably too much.
I like a "high" clutch pedal, but that's just my opinion; YMMV.
Something around 1" of "free pedal" is probably about right. Anything less than 1/2" of "free pedal" is probably not enough. Anything more than 1-1/2" of "free pedal" is probably too much.
I like a "high" clutch pedal, but that's just my opinion; YMMV.
bulldurham
Platinum Level Sponsor
clutch slave
Steve, I have a vague memory of Jose saying that distance was almost at touching but don't credit him if I am wrong. Maybe he will check in w/ you.
Steve, I have a vague memory of Jose saying that distance was almost at touching but don't credit him if I am wrong. Maybe he will check in w/ you.
Barry
Diamond Level Sponsor
Steve,
The traditional school of thought is that there should be 1/16" to 1/8" clearance between the face of the throwout bearing and the clutch fingers when the clutch is completely engaged (clutch pedal all the way up).
There is a lot of mechanical advantage / ratio in the clutch release system (clutch pedal lever, master cylinder, slave cylinder, clutch release arm & the clutch fingers), so 1/16" to 1/8" clearance between the face of the throwout bearing and the clutch fingers winds up being something like 1/2" to 1-1/2" of "free play" at the clutch pedal.
A "pull back" spring on the clutch release arm may help to actually keep the throwout bearing off the clutch fingers.
The traditional school of thought is that there should be 1/16" to 1/8" clearance between the face of the throwout bearing and the clutch fingers when the clutch is completely engaged (clutch pedal all the way up).
There is a lot of mechanical advantage / ratio in the clutch release system (clutch pedal lever, master cylinder, slave cylinder, clutch release arm & the clutch fingers), so 1/16" to 1/8" clearance between the face of the throwout bearing and the clutch fingers winds up being something like 1/2" to 1-1/2" of "free play" at the clutch pedal.
A "pull back" spring on the clutch release arm may help to actually keep the throwout bearing off the clutch fingers.
DanR
Diamond Level Sponsor
I adjust mine by using the clutch lever arm, manually moving by hand to get a 'feel" of when the release bearing touches the pressure plate fingers then backing off a bit perhaps 1/8 of an inch or less. Just so it does not continually ride on the fingers.
Adjust the lever and the rods to mate, at that point, lock the nuts and you are good to go.
Adjust the lever and the rods to mate, at that point, lock the nuts and you are good to go.
Attachments
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Hi Steve,
The throw out bearing on the mustang, is a constant contact bearing, so you don't need clearance to keep the bearing from touching the fingers of the pressure plate. The original cable operation did not have a return spring, like most regular clutches need. What I would worry about, is over traveling the fingers of the pressure plate, and is why I have always advocated using a clutch pedal stop. I destroyed three pressure plates before I realized what was causing the problem.
The throw out bearing on the mustang, is a constant contact bearing, so you don't need clearance to keep the bearing from touching the fingers of the pressure plate. The original cable operation did not have a return spring, like most regular clutches need. What I would worry about, is over traveling the fingers of the pressure plate, and is why I have always advocated using a clutch pedal stop. I destroyed three pressure plates before I realized what was causing the problem.
DanR
Diamond Level Sponsor
A PIC of the '74-78 Mutt II Clutch release
Just thought you guys might like to see this picture of the Mustang II release arm return spring.
I always thought it was attached to the release arms to "pull" back the bearing to a set place to keep it from "riding" on the pressure plate forks, I have one of them installed on my Commodore Blue V6. Works great!
Just thought you guys might like to see this picture of the Mustang II release arm return spring.
I always thought it was attached to the release arms to "pull" back the bearing to a set place to keep it from "riding" on the pressure plate forks, I have one of them installed on my Commodore Blue V6. Works great!
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Hi Steve,
The best way to adjust the pedal stop, is to put the car on a slight incline in gear, then begin depressing the pedal until the car begins to move then set your stop about 1/4" from the floor at that point. You want the clutch to fully release with no gear grinding. Make sure you have the pedal stop tight so that it doesn't come loose once you've found the sweet spot.
The best way to adjust the pedal stop, is to put the car on a slight incline in gear, then begin depressing the pedal until the car begins to move then set your stop about 1/4" from the floor at that point. You want the clutch to fully release with no gear grinding. Make sure you have the pedal stop tight so that it doesn't come loose once you've found the sweet spot.
Mike Armstrong
Bronze Level Sponsor
thanks Jose
and the motors is in after 2.5 years too
Looks great Steve!
Congratulations! You are almost there. Just wait for the thrill you'll feel when you start it for the first time. Then the thrill you'll feel when it drived under it's own power. It will be one thrill after another. again congratulations!
thanks Jose
and the motors is in after 2.5 years too
bulldurham
Platinum Level Sponsor
project
Good work , Steve. Looks great.
My order for the egg crate grill is next, right..
Good work , Steve. Looks great.
My order for the egg crate grill is next, right..