Hi Steve,
You have most of the info right now, but you can get more info at the web spot that is in my signature, but I will tell you what you asked for.
I run stock Ford 2.9 V6 valves, with stock retainers and keepers. I recommend using all felpro gaskets and valve seals. You can set up the springs like stock, since the higher lift of my cam is not enough to cause a problem. I recommend buying a set of good stock pistons, and they don't need to have valve clearance eyebrows cut into them, because this is not an interferance engine; the valces are not on an angle to the pistons, so clearance for the edge of a valve isn't necessary.
Either set of heads will work well for you. The only exception would be the 1974 heads, because they don't have heat risers in them. You will find a referance to a good head porter on the web spot. There is a ton of info there. If you have your heads milled, you will need to have your manifold milled to match. If you don't do this, you will end up with vacuum leaks, or worse, possible internal water leaks.
You'd need to do some math if you were going to use taller pistons, because I don't recommend going past 9.5 to 1 compression. I do recommend milling the heads a maximum of .030", which will give about 8.5 to 1. If you really want a Bad engine, then you can go with a set of taller pistons, but don't go crazy.
If you have any other questions, just drop me an email and I will answer them all.
You have most of the info right now, but you can get more info at the web spot that is in my signature, but I will tell you what you asked for.
I run stock Ford 2.9 V6 valves, with stock retainers and keepers. I recommend using all felpro gaskets and valve seals. You can set up the springs like stock, since the higher lift of my cam is not enough to cause a problem. I recommend buying a set of good stock pistons, and they don't need to have valve clearance eyebrows cut into them, because this is not an interferance engine; the valces are not on an angle to the pistons, so clearance for the edge of a valve isn't necessary.
Either set of heads will work well for you. The only exception would be the 1974 heads, because they don't have heat risers in them. You will find a referance to a good head porter on the web spot. There is a ton of info there. If you have your heads milled, you will need to have your manifold milled to match. If you don't do this, you will end up with vacuum leaks, or worse, possible internal water leaks.
You'd need to do some math if you were going to use taller pistons, because I don't recommend going past 9.5 to 1 compression. I do recommend milling the heads a maximum of .030", which will give about 8.5 to 1. If you really want a Bad engine, then you can go with a set of taller pistons, but don't go crazy.
If you have any other questions, just drop me an email and I will answer them all.
I know this has been covered numerous times. Cylinder heads; I am starting to collect parts for my 2.8 build. Install Ford 2.9 valves or? What about installed heights for the high lift Jose cam, what springs and retainers? Mill the heads .030 to increase compression 1/2 point? Should I also send the Offenhauser manifold with the heads to have manifold milled also? Is there room for some type of positive oil seal on the valve guide top with the high lift cam? Pistons; buy the taller crown height piston from Summit? Is notching the pistons for valve clearance needed? I have two sets of heads, Mustang 11 and Ford Ranger. Probably use the Ranger short block with Mustang front. Either heads will work well? Recommendations for a shop that can the 2.8 head work (porting) This will be a good start, more questions to follow. Thank you in advance. Steve V. 2.8 In Arizona