v6 conversion questions

[jzuk7]

Yesterday I removed the 1725 engine from my SV for the last time. While working on it, I had a few thoughts that I don't know how I'm going to get things to work.

First, where is the conversion article that Jim E. typed up? I'm ready to remove the motor mounts and cut the tunnel.

Second, what should I do for an acceraltor pedal and linkage. I plan on using the original carb off a 77 mustang II, which is a motorcraft 2150. Should I get rid of the old sunbeam pedal linkage and go with a new pedal and cable set up? Anyone have pictures of their set up?

Third, my alpine does not have power brakes. I would like to have power assist. I noticed on the v6 alpine on ebay had the booster on the firewall. Is that a alpine booster? Is there any other kind of booster that can be used?

Jose, how the kits coming?

Thanks,

Joel

 

[V6 JOSE]

Yesterday I removed the 1725 engine from my SV for the last time. While working on it, I had a few thoughts that I don't know how I'm going to get things to work.

First, where is the conversion article that Jim E. typed up? I'm ready to remove the motor mounts and cut the tunnel.

Second, what should I do for an acceraltor pedal and linkage. I plan on using the original carb off a 77 mustang II, which is a motorcraft 2150. Should I get rid of the old sunbeam pedal linkage and go with a new pedal and cable set up? Anyone have pictures of their set up?

Third, my alpine does not have power brakes. I would like to have power assist. I noticed on the v6 alpine on ebay had the booster on the firewall. Is that a alpine booster? Is there any other kind of booster that can be used?

Jose, how the kits coming?

Thanks,

Joel

Hi Joel,

The kits should deliver soon after the new year. I have sent in the order for them, along with the money, so am looking forward to seeing them soon.

I suggest using the stock Alpine pedal with a few modifications. You can get a cable set up from the local parts store and connect it to the part of the stock linkage. I have tried the aftermarket floor mounted pedal and cable, and it didn't work as well as the stock pedal arrangement with the cable adapted to it. To make it work, just take the bent part of the linkage that sticks through the firewall and cut off the part that points down. The rest of it should stick straight up inside the firewall. take the piece that is left and grind it on opposite sides so that it looks like a blade. Leave it about 1/8" thick, then drill a hole through the flat. Now you have a hole to attach the cable end to. You then can cut the cable to length and connect it up. It will look factory when you're done.

If you need some pictures of how to modify your floor and crossmember, send Jim Ellis an e-mail, and he will be happy to send them to you via e-mail.

Jose

 

[jzuk7]

Jose
Thanks for the information. Now is the time for me to figure this out because I have a strange feeling it will be easier now than with the v6 in the car. Last summer while at a junkyard I picked up a gas pedal assembly and cable out of a bronco II. It looked like I could get it to work, but I'll try using the Sunbeam pedal and linkage.

Thanks again,

Joel

 

[Jim E]

The cable Jose refers to is the ticket! got one from autozone pretty sure it is made by Spectre and mine was a kit with the bracket and cable. But for the life of me I cannot find it listed anywhere as a kit, just teh cable and brackeet seperate. Maybe Dwain C. has the part number or a good counter man at the parts house can find it for you.

Hopefully we find the part number and I will include it in the next write up on the conversion with pictures of how I did the throttle. Really it is pretty easy, I did have to heat and bend the part of the Alpine linkage to get full open on the carb. Pretty much all you do is remove the piece that hooks to teh gas pedal and sticks thru the fire wall cut part off teh end grind two flats on it drill a hole for teh cable to attach and install the Alpine modified piece back to the pedal only it seems to work best if you rotate it 180.

Drop me a note for the first write up and I can hook you up. I may try and put it up on the web space Andrew let me use if I can recall how to do it....

 

[Chuck Ingram]

There is also a hydraulic gas pedal combo from Neal's Performance
I'm sure Wildwood has a similar pedal as well.
I have thought of using it but always seemed to find old bicycle cables on the shelf that do the trick.You need one with the housing.Ends can be adapted.So far no problems.

 

[britbeam]

Hi Guys just got home from running the roads of America all week so this is the first chance Ive had to enter these part numbers. This is what I used on my Alpine.
Accel Cable-Spectre P/N 2430
Carb bracket for cable- Spectre P/N 2418

Air Cleaner- 9" Spectre P/N 4770
Gasket under air cleaner- Felpro 60038 or 13-6516
Alternator- Hitachi P/N 14231 (Advance Auto Parts)
Originaly used in 1973 Datsun truck


Oil filter adapter seals etc. From Ford dealer
FMC Fotz6l621a -gasket
SPO E3tz6749a-o ring
SPO E3tz6a636e- copper washer

 

[craigb]

V6 Thottle linkage

I need help! I dont get it. I have tried many times and many different ways to get the SV gas pedal and brackets to work with a cable to opperate the 390 carb and have had no luck getting enough movement to get the carb to open fully. The idea of it moving enough to open the secondaries is just a fantasy. I have tried it using modified part that goes through the firewall, cut if off etc, made a new part like it, made new parts that work inside the firewall with the cable going through the firewall, I just cant get enough movement. I must have something messed up with the gas pedal. Any ideas?

Thanks, Craig

 

[Barry]

I must have something messed up with the gas pedal. Any ideas?

Thanks, Craig

Craig,

Post pictures of the pedal-to-cable setup and the carburetor connection and someone will probably be able to offer a solution.

 

[Jim E]

Someone did a search...

I had the same problem, getting eoungh travel to fully open the carb. First the piece that sticks thru the firewall, the stock linkage bit, finger thing, I took the nut off the bottom of it and flipped it so instead of pointing out thru the F/W it points back at the driver, also cut the end off and ground it flat on the sides until the cable would fit over it, drilled a hole and hooked it all up. This involved a certain amount of looking and figuring.. cable comes out here needs to pull straight that looks far enough... that should work.. only the pull was not right ... so I took it out and heated it with a torch and bent in a bit and it was worse because now it was not in line with the cable and still did not have the right travel... remove heat repeat bend... repeat... in the end it worked. wait let me see if I can go take a picture of this thing...ok got it, that was fun have not had the cover off my car in a while. Anyway you can see in the picture the cable is installed a bit higher that where the linkage use to go thru the F/W, oh and pay no attention to this being a RHD application the linkage is in the same place left or right.

 

[craigb]

Thanks Jim, I appreciate the help and the photo. This is how I had mine done in the first place, and didnt get enough travel. I have made up one that is even longer and still not enough travel. I wonder if there is something wrong with my gas pedal set up.I had to re-bolt it to the floor.
I'll keep trying different rod shapes and lengths to get it. The rod that this connects to only turns about 1/6th of a rotation at best giving me about an inch of travel at the end of the fabricated rod holding the cable, so its a challenge. Thanks again, Craig