Trunk Bump-Stop

[chubby]

Where is the correct location to fix the bump-stop on the trunk lid.

Thanks Gents!

Chubby

 

[Warren]

At a point where the latch on the boot can't push past the pawl trapping it and forcing you to make a head thru the passenger compartment to un stick it

 

[chubby]

I meant the location of these bumpers, distance left/right of center.

 

[mikephillips]

On later cars at least you should see a small metal bracket on each side of the trunk lid, the little rubber bumper fits into these. If the brackets are missing there are to holes for the short machine screws that hold them on that should be visible of not filled in by someone.

 

[65beam]

Jim Stone posted under the E Bay Discoveries a link to a MK 2 Tiger for sale. Open the link and scroll down thru the photos and there is a photo of the trunk lid with the trunk buffers clearly shown.

 

[Warren]

http://forum.sunbeamalpine.org/index.php?threads/stuck-boot.26798/#post-184333

Did not re read the posting, but seems that different hardness of boot rubber seal makes some difference, as it's rubber to rubber contact.

 

[65beam]

http://forum.sunbeamalpine.org/index.php?threads/stuck-boot.26798/#post-184333

Did not re read the posting, but seems that different hardness of boot rubber seal makes some difference, as it's rubber to rubber contact.

The difference is that the buffer brackets are adjustable so it's all a matter of getting them set so that there is nominal contact between the buffer and the trunk seal when latched. This adjustment eliminates the hardness of the rubber or the size or thickness of the seal. The purpose of the buffer is to protect the metal of the trunk lid itself from being damaged. When latched there will be some indentation of the seal due to initial latching and movement of the lid while driving. There's a photo showing the seal indentation of our series 5 on the post mentioned by Warren. This seal dates back to the 90's.

 

[Warren]

All was saying is I've had really soft rubber and harder ones. Per the old thread mashing too hard and forcing the lid shut is the fast path to being the crawl guy or getting a small persons help. I has pictures of the latch pushed past it's closed position from inside the stuck trunk . It's pretty easy to get it stuck even if the adjustment is done well.
Just like a stuck hood the latches leave a little to be desired.

 

[65beam]

All was saying is I've had really soft rubber and harder ones. Per the old thread mashing too hard and forcing the lid shut is the fast path to being the crawl guy or getting a small persons help. I has pictures of the latch pushed past it's closed position from inside the stuck trunk . It's pretty easy to get it stuck even if the adjustment is done well.
Just like a stuck hood the latches leave a little to be desired.

As I said it takes time and effort to get it right. I can pull down on the trunk of our series 5 and it closes and latches properly. The same on the series 4. I don't have to manually push them down other than the initial tug on the handle. This is due to all of the adjustment done. We use the same trunk rubber for the hatch seal on The Harringtons. The seal does vary and I'm aware of this because when Doug was fitting and adjusting the hatch on the LeMans this past summer we had five seals and he used the one that was the smallest and needed less trimming. These were all bought from the same supplier but at different times so that may account for the difference due to his vendor. Other cars used a seal like this so who knows what the vendor may send that looks the same but has maybe a minor difference. I have a couple used original trunk seals and the difference between them and current pieces are different. The spring on the hood latch comes into play when opening the hood. When properly adjusted and you pull the T handle the latch should pop free. The cone on the latch has a slot for a screw driver for adjustment of the spring. Check out the difference between the original and now available rubber trunk buffers.

 

[Warren]

On a brief note my troubles came from cramming 13 pounds of stuff into the space where 10 will fit. Watching guys like Tom_Hall He's the guy that has luggage that fits within the shape of the boot and isn't seen with two hands smashing the lid down over an overstuffed boot with car covers and jackets being compressed at the same time. As for the hood latch note that a lot of guys have trimmed the catch on the hood. It's the secondary one that can easily get stuck, especially easy while fitting an LAT hood or other adjustment. I'm just reporting my fun with the cars...

 

[65beam]

On a brief note my troubles came from cramming 13 pounds of stuff into the space where 10 will fit. Watching guys like Tom_Hall He's the guy that has luggage that fits within the shape of the boot and isn't seen with two hands smashing the lid down over an overstuffed boot with car covers and jackets being compressed at the same time. As for the hood latch note that a lot of guys have trimmed the catch on the hood. It's the secondary one that can easily get stuck, especially easy while fitting an LAT hood or other adjustment. I'm just reporting my fun with the cars...

I do have both pieces of the hood latches from cars I parted that have that problem and are tagged as such . I just don't throw anything away since anything can be rebuilt. Back in the days when we traveled with a kid behind the seats of an Alpine we found out how the zip up duffle bags made life a lot easier and the use of a luggage rack was a really big help. The green car still has a luggage rack that carries the EZ Up and other items. Before Doug restored the green car it had a receiver hitch installed to pull a small luggage trailer. There is a member of this forum that has had the problem of a stuck trunk a few times .